First attempt at painting calipers
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
First attempt at painting calipers
While the cars motor was getting rebuilt I was busy doing various other things such as renewing all the suspension and lots of cosmetic improvements including painting parts of the motor and calipers. I was pretty happy with the way they turned out in the end. Initially I was going to use the G2 2-part Caliper Paint but with none available locally and freight being the same price as the paint itself I decided to try VST spray cans. Used 3 coats of color followed by 3 coats of clear.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 08-28-2015 at 03:45 AM.
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Blade Canyon (01-15-2017)
#2
Senior Member
Looks mean, they came out really good
I initially used the G2 kit on mine and hated the outcome, I was sure I did everything by the book but still had catalyst bubbles in the mix and the colour was real bland and inconsistent
I eventually used a paint stripper to remove the junk and then used a generic calliper spray paint and they came out really good like yours
I'm sure others have had success with the G2 brush on kits but after using them I think that they would possibly be better for a cast bumpy brake calliper to give a smooth finish as opposed to our already smooth brembos
Mine are about 7 months painted and are still smooth and shiny with full colour as if they have just been done
I initially used the G2 kit on mine and hated the outcome, I was sure I did everything by the book but still had catalyst bubbles in the mix and the colour was real bland and inconsistent
I eventually used a paint stripper to remove the junk and then used a generic calliper spray paint and they came out really good like yours
I'm sure others have had success with the G2 brush on kits but after using them I think that they would possibly be better for a cast bumpy brake calliper to give a smooth finish as opposed to our already smooth brembos
Mine are about 7 months painted and are still smooth and shiny with full colour as if they have just been done
Last edited by menace2sobriety; 08-28-2015 at 04:25 AM.
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
Looks mean, they came out really good
I initially used the G2 kit on mine and hated the outcome, I was sure I did everything by the book but still had catalyst bubbles in the mix and the colour was real bland and inconsistent
I eventually used a paint stripper to remove the junk and then used a generic calliper spray paint and they came out really good like yours
I'm sure others have had success with the G2 brush on kits but after using them I think that they would possibly be better for a cast bumpy break calliper to give a smooth finish as opposed to our already smooth brembos
Mine are about 7 months painted and are still smooth and shiny with full colour as if they have just been done
I initially used the G2 kit on mine and hated the outcome, I was sure I did everything by the book but still had catalyst bubbles in the mix and the colour was real bland and inconsistent
I eventually used a paint stripper to remove the junk and then used a generic calliper spray paint and they came out really good like yours
I'm sure others have had success with the G2 brush on kits but after using them I think that they would possibly be better for a cast bumpy break calliper to give a smooth finish as opposed to our already smooth brembos
Mine are about 7 months painted and are still smooth and shiny with full colour as if they have just been done
#5
Senior Member
Well that's encouraging - maybe it was a good thing that the G2 wasn't available locally. I have heard mixed reports reports regarding the quality and results from G2 and you're not the first person I've heard has had to strip back and repaint afterwards. Unusual since I assume it is the more professional option?
I eventually used dupli-color calliper paint and surprisingly the result was flawless compared to the G2 kit
Learn from experience I guess
Last edited by menace2sobriety; 08-28-2015 at 04:26 AM.
#6
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#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
There are numerous sticker/decals available for sale on eBay. Just make sure to purchase the 3m or similar quality - ones that can handle high heat and will last many years. These are the ones I purchased in Australia for $10:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-AU
I first painted the calipers then applied the decals and finished with the clear coats.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-AU
I first painted the calipers then applied the decals and finished with the clear coats.
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#8
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Ha that'll teach me to take my time responding to a post - just noticed menace2sobriety essentially posted the same reply well before mine... Oops...
#10
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Yeah as they say "it's all in the preparation" although I would say every step is important. I didn't use stripper but did take time sanding back. Also used degreaser and wire brush to clean up first. Use 240 or 400 then 1000 or 1200 to finish before applying paint.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 08-28-2015 at 06:15 AM.
#11
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2012 CLS63
wow those are vibrant! looks great Therapist
#12
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That looks very well done IMO it's not worth getting calipers professionally sprayed. I got a quote of $500 the other day I think yours turned out great. I actually have a set of red calipers but I don't like red. I'm gonna spray them soon.
#14
Member
I had grandiose plans to do mine over the weekend when I was changing out my brake pads (love the Akebono pads so far BTW). I then took one look at them and thought to myself "this goes from a 3 hour job to an 8 hour job". With two kids at home I just cleaned them up and got them looking nice. I already have all the stuff to do them in yellow and this makes me want to do it again. :-/
Nice job!
Nice job!
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Looks really good. If that AMG logo is going on the rear of car I would love to see a pick when it goes on. I have been thinking of going that color on the logos
#16
Super Member
Thread Starter
Actually that one is going to be semi-hidden inside the black grille to compliment the air scoops. Once everything is together I'll be able to feel out if the other badging should be coloured or just come off entirely.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 08-29-2015 at 12:41 PM.
#18
Super Member
Older thread but did you prime/clear coat as well? Did you also bake them in the oven as per the instructions. How do they look now that a year has passed?
Looks REALLY nice.
Thanks,
-Nigel
Looks REALLY nice.
Thanks,
-Nigel
#19
Super Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Nigel, yeah I was really pleased with how they turned out, mind you I had to redo a couple of them when the spray job wasn't up to scratch. Which meant of course carefully rubbing them back again and respraying. The finished result is highly dependent on the preparation. I found for the best results to make sure they were lukewarm to the touch prior to spraying. 2 very fine coats about 20-30 minutes apart followed by a slightly fuller spray, then allow to dry for a few days. Then I applied the AMG motifs followed by a couple of coats of clear. Some people say to not worry about the clear coats but I think the results speak for them-self.
As for baking them in the oven I figured they would get plenty hot when being used so they would properly cure in real world use. This seems to have been the case...
Last edited by TheTherapist; 01-13-2017 at 10:22 AM.
#20
Super Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Nigel, yeah I was really pleased with how they turned out, mind you I had to redo a couple of them when the spray job wasn't up to scratch. Which meant of course carefully rubbing them back again and respraying. The finished result is highly dependant onn the preparation. I found for the best results to make sure they were lukewarm to the touch prior to spraying. 2 very fine coats about 20-30 minutes apart followed by a slightly fuller spray, then allow to dry for a few days. Then I applied the AMG motifs followed by a couple of coats of clear. Some people say to not worry about the clear coats but I think the results speak for them-self.
#21
Super Member
Excellent!!
Just to get clarity on one item. On VHT's specs they say to bake the part after painting. I take this is because of the ceramic in the paint. Did you bake it before you put the clear on or did you add clear after the color, then bake it?
I would think the latter would not cure properly because the color wouldn't have anywhere to out gas since the clear coat is now covering it.
IE: Clean up caliper via prep (aircraft stripper, sand/scuff, more cleaning) primer, then add color. Bake to cure, then once cured add clear coat and bake again?
Thanks again,
-Nigel
Just to get clarity on one item. On VHT's specs they say to bake the part after painting. I take this is because of the ceramic in the paint. Did you bake it before you put the clear on or did you add clear after the color, then bake it?
I would think the latter would not cure properly because the color wouldn't have anywhere to out gas since the clear coat is now covering it.
IE: Clean up caliper via prep (aircraft stripper, sand/scuff, more cleaning) primer, then add color. Bake to cure, then once cured add clear coat and bake again?
Thanks again,
-Nigel
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is hard to paint aluminum. If you have well bonded factory paint, I'd clean it and paint over it unless you really know what you are doing.
Also, how hot can you bake the rubber seals, or are the calipers completely disassembled?
Also, how hot can you bake the rubber seals, or are the calipers completely disassembled?
#24
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#25
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http://www.proboat.com/2014/12/keepi...t-on-aluminum/
After the final coat was applied I gradually heated to quite a high temperature with heaters instead of baking to cure, thinking they get damn hot in real world use so would cure properly whilst "on the job". Probably flawed thinking but they seem to be holding up alright....?
Last edited by TheTherapist; 01-15-2017 at 03:06 AM.