How do I clean my engine???
05-12-2005, 12:59 PM
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1991 190e 2.6
How do I clean my engine???
Sorry to be asking these questions...if they have already been asked?
But after taking a real good look under the hood ..I personally feel like I could have a much nicer and cleaner looking engine and under hood appearance..
Any suggestions?
But after taking a real good look under the hood ..I personally feel like I could have a much nicer and cleaner looking engine and under hood appearance..
Any suggestions?
05-12-2005, 02:31 PM
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'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
Here's some tips. The engine bay didn't get dirty overnight, so it's unlikely that you're going to be able to get it showroom clean overnight either, it will take some time and effort. The benefit is that a clean engine bay makes finding leaks and disconnect lines ever so much easier. It also sends a subliminal message to mechanics that have to work under the hood that the owner is a person that takes better than average care of their car and expects the same from the professionals that work on it.
Start with a shop vac. Clean out the debris that accumulates in the leaf shield at the base of the windshield and in the fuse box/battery pockets. Vaccum out the areas/pockets near the headlights. Using some water in an old water bottle, pour it at the lower corners of the windsheild and check the flow to the rubber drains at the corners and along the hood line. There are drains that will direct the water thru the fenders down to the ground. If the water doesn't flow, you have blocked lines that can be cleaned out with some wire or tubing.
There are canned aerosol cleaners from GUNK or Simple Green that will initiall degrease the engine. It's a good idea to buy 3 or 4 cans for a really dirty engine. Follow the directions.
Additionally, don't degrease the engine on a clean driveway without laying down some protecive tarp or plastic sheeting that you can get from a paint supply store or department. Cleaning the engine grease off the driveway is just extra work.
You will have to plastic/foil wrap and rubber band the electronics (pretty much anything that has wires going to it) and the air intake, after you remove the air cleaner housing. Avoid getting water near the headlight housing or in the corners, notorious spots where water can get trapped.
When rinising or cleaning, don't use a pressure washer. The potential for blowing off a vaccum line or sensor wire is too great, not to mention having water end up in the intake. Don't use any water pressure greater than what your garden hose can generate with your thumb, is a good basic rule.
Start at one corner of the engine bay and work to the other side. After doing the general degreasing, the hard work of brushing off the remaining gunk starts. Use old toothbrushes on wires and vaccum lines, and use a metal (welders) brush on the metal pieces like the block, water pump, etc. Take care not to dislodge the wires or vaccum hoses. Keep a notebook handy to note what connectors or harnesses might need replacing due to age or wear.
You can use tire dressing on the hoses and metal polish on the clamps and connectors. Don't forget to wax/polish the painted metal parts around the wheel arches and the radiator supports.
Start with a shop vac. Clean out the debris that accumulates in the leaf shield at the base of the windshield and in the fuse box/battery pockets. Vaccum out the areas/pockets near the headlights. Using some water in an old water bottle, pour it at the lower corners of the windsheild and check the flow to the rubber drains at the corners and along the hood line. There are drains that will direct the water thru the fenders down to the ground. If the water doesn't flow, you have blocked lines that can be cleaned out with some wire or tubing.
There are canned aerosol cleaners from GUNK or Simple Green that will initiall degrease the engine. It's a good idea to buy 3 or 4 cans for a really dirty engine. Follow the directions.
Additionally, don't degrease the engine on a clean driveway without laying down some protecive tarp or plastic sheeting that you can get from a paint supply store or department. Cleaning the engine grease off the driveway is just extra work.
You will have to plastic/foil wrap and rubber band the electronics (pretty much anything that has wires going to it) and the air intake, after you remove the air cleaner housing. Avoid getting water near the headlight housing or in the corners, notorious spots where water can get trapped.
When rinising or cleaning, don't use a pressure washer. The potential for blowing off a vaccum line or sensor wire is too great, not to mention having water end up in the intake. Don't use any water pressure greater than what your garden hose can generate with your thumb, is a good basic rule.
Start at one corner of the engine bay and work to the other side. After doing the general degreasing, the hard work of brushing off the remaining gunk starts. Use old toothbrushes on wires and vaccum lines, and use a metal (welders) brush on the metal pieces like the block, water pump, etc. Take care not to dislodge the wires or vaccum hoses. Keep a notebook handy to note what connectors or harnesses might need replacing due to age or wear.
You can use tire dressing on the hoses and metal polish on the clamps and connectors. Don't forget to wax/polish the painted metal parts around the wheel arches and the radiator supports.
05-12-2005, 03:27 PM
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1991 190e 2.6
Originally Posted by MTI
Here's some tips. The engine bay didn't get dirty overnight, so it's unlikely that you're going to be able to get it showroom clean overnight either, it will take some time and effort. The benefit is that a clean engine bay makes finding leaks and disconnect lines ever so much easier. It also sends a subliminal message to mechanics that have to work under the hood that the owner is a person that takes better than average care of their car and expects the same from the professionals that work on it.
Start with a shop vac. Clean out the debris that accumulates in the leaf shield at the base of the windshield and in the fuse box/battery pockets. Vaccum out the areas/pockets near the headlights. Using some water in an old water bottle, pour it at the lower corners of the windsheild and check the flow to the rubber drains at the corners and along the hood line. There are drains that will direct the water thru the fenders down to the ground. If the water doesn't flow, you have blocked lines that can be cleaned out with some wire or tubing.
There are canned aerosol cleaners from GUNK or Simple Green that will initiall degrease the engine. It's a good idea to buy 3 or 4 cans for a really dirty engine. Follow the directions.
Additionally, don't degrease the engine on a clean driveway without laying down some protecive tarp or plastic sheeting that you can get from a paint supply store or department. Cleaning the engine grease off the driveway is just extra work.
You will have to plastic/foil wrap and rubber band the electronics (pretty much anything that has wires going to it) and the air intake, after you remove the air cleaner housing. Avoid getting water near the headlight housing or in the corners, notorious spots where water can get trapped.
When rinising or cleaning, don't use a pressure washer. The potential for blowing off a vaccum line or sensor wire is too great, not to mention having water end up in the intake. Don't use any water pressure greater than what your garden hose can generate with your thumb, is a good basic rule.
Start at one corner of the engine bay and work to the other side. After doing the general degreasing, the hard work of brushing off the remaining gunk starts. Use old toothbrushes on wires and vaccum lines, and use a metal (welders) brush on the metal pieces like the block, water pump, etc. Take care not to dislodge the wires or vaccum hoses. Keep a notebook handy to note what connectors or harnesses might need replacing due to age or wear.
You can use tire dressing on the hoses and metal polish on the clamps and connectors. Don't forget to wax/polish the painted metal parts around the wheel arches and the radiator supports.
Start with a shop vac. Clean out the debris that accumulates in the leaf shield at the base of the windshield and in the fuse box/battery pockets. Vaccum out the areas/pockets near the headlights. Using some water in an old water bottle, pour it at the lower corners of the windsheild and check the flow to the rubber drains at the corners and along the hood line. There are drains that will direct the water thru the fenders down to the ground. If the water doesn't flow, you have blocked lines that can be cleaned out with some wire or tubing.
There are canned aerosol cleaners from GUNK or Simple Green that will initiall degrease the engine. It's a good idea to buy 3 or 4 cans for a really dirty engine. Follow the directions.
Additionally, don't degrease the engine on a clean driveway without laying down some protecive tarp or plastic sheeting that you can get from a paint supply store or department. Cleaning the engine grease off the driveway is just extra work.
You will have to plastic/foil wrap and rubber band the electronics (pretty much anything that has wires going to it) and the air intake, after you remove the air cleaner housing. Avoid getting water near the headlight housing or in the corners, notorious spots where water can get trapped.
When rinising or cleaning, don't use a pressure washer. The potential for blowing off a vaccum line or sensor wire is too great, not to mention having water end up in the intake. Don't use any water pressure greater than what your garden hose can generate with your thumb, is a good basic rule.
Start at one corner of the engine bay and work to the other side. After doing the general degreasing, the hard work of brushing off the remaining gunk starts. Use old toothbrushes on wires and vaccum lines, and use a metal (welders) brush on the metal pieces like the block, water pump, etc. Take care not to dislodge the wires or vaccum hoses. Keep a notebook handy to note what connectors or harnesses might need replacing due to age or wear.
You can use tire dressing on the hoses and metal polish on the clamps and connectors. Don't forget to wax/polish the painted metal parts around the wheel arches and the radiator supports.
