Difficult to start and cannot run or drive.
11-08-2005, 12:59 AM
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190E 2.3 1993
Difficult to start and cannot run or drive.
My 190/2.3 is very difficult to start and will not run. We can only get it started by ‘pumping’ the gas pedal, the engine will rev up and then die. If the gas pedal is kept down, the engine dies after a few seconds. But if we ‘sort off’ keep ‘pumping’ the gas pedal we can keep the engine going (the engine will continue to rev up and down and then die after 15 - 30 seconds or so).
We checked the fuel supply (the fuel pump is running and fuel is getting to the fuel distributor).
Not sure where to go from here – any help from you all is highly appreciated.
We checked the fuel supply (the fuel pump is running and fuel is getting to the fuel distributor).
Not sure where to go from here – any help from you all is highly appreciated.
11-09-2005, 10:12 PM
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190E 2.3 1993
How can you check the fuel pressure regulator (without using a pressure/vacuum meter or gauge)?
I have a suspicion that the fuel just runs through the darn thing.
Thanks.
I have a suspicion that the fuel just runs through the darn thing.
Thanks.
11-11-2005, 08:04 AM
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190E / 2.0L
I got a feeling it is the ignition control microchip. This is located on the right side of the engine compartment. A black flat piece with a round socket connection.
11-11-2005, 10:15 AM
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190E 2.3 1993
Thanks, I will check it out (not sure how to check the module thought).
Its possible but may not be likely since I checked the ignition (coil, rotor,..), I have a good spark on the plugs BUT no fuel out of the fuel distributor (on the line to the fuel injector).
Its possible but may not be likely since I checked the ignition (coil, rotor,..), I have a good spark on the plugs BUT no fuel out of the fuel distributor (on the line to the fuel injector).
11-11-2005, 11:53 AM
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2003 C230K Sport Coupe, 1986 190E 2.3
First off check for vacuum leaks or bad vacuum lines or disconnected ones. Then check plugs, wire, cap and rotor. Then go to the Air Flow Meter and check the rubber boot under it that connects it to the Intake for cracks. Then check the Water Temp Sensor. You will find none of this info at this site as for some reason no one likes talking about the older cars and how to fix them. You want do it yourself 190E knowledge you must find the other sites that deal with them. One is 190 Revolution. I have posted its address her many many many times. Or Google it. As I am not sure if my posts still have it due to forum rules and I do not want people to think I am affiliated with the site, I just happen to post there a lot and have posted how to fix what you are talking about, or at least what to check way to many times already.
11-13-2005, 08:34 PM
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'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
Always check for vaccum leaks in these ancient cars. You might want to remove an clean/inspect the cold start valve, located in the middle of the intake runners.
11-23-2005, 01:41 PM
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190E 2.3 1993
We got the car back on the road.
Thanks for all pointers and information.
The problem was with the Fuel Distributor and the Start Valve.
To help any fellow DIY, who would face a similar problem, let me try to summarize what we did.
Since there was no fuel on the injector lines (with fuel pump running) BUT plenty of fuel on the Start Valve fuel line, return line and fuel distributor lower chamber (fuel distributor pressure test point), we figured that something got to be wrong with the fuel distributor.
We disconnected the fuel distributor and removed it from the car. Disassembled the distributor, cleaned all the ‘lines’ with carburetor cleaner (and air/compressor), assembled it and re-installed it.
This fixed the problem with fuel to the fuel injector lines (with the fuel pump running – plenty of fuel on the fuel injector lines).
BUT, with the fuel pump running, it sounded like a lot of fuel was running through the distributor!! The engine did not start AND stopped cranking…NOW the engine was flooding.. There was so much fuel in the cylinders that the starter could not turn the engine.
After draining the fuel (by removing the spark plug) a couple of times it was evident that something else was wrong. Actually, the flooding was so severe that we also got fuel in the engine oil.
The next possible problem (the only one left that we could think of) was the Start Valve. So, we swapped out the Start Valve (and the fuel distributor, just to eliminate this as a problem source).
The engine STARTED at the first go - problem solved.
We shut the engine down right away, because of the problem with fuel in the engine oil. Drained the oil-fuel ‘mixture’ and added new/fresh oil. Started the engine to run the oil through the engine and burn off all the excessive fuel (first some fuel came out the exhaust, then a lot of white smoke).
Drained the oil, replaced the filter and added new engine oil.
Drove the car for about 10 miles - Now it starts at the first crank and runs better than ever.
After more that 200 miles, the engine oil looks and feels new (and does not smell of fuel).
Long story, but happy ending.
Just a couple of pointers:
Fuel distributor,
Be extremely careful if you decide to disassemble it. The diaphragm inside the unit breaks easily and it’s difficult to put back together.
Parts,
Considering the possible severity of the problem, we bought a ‘new’ engine (only 80K miles). With the spare engine, we can swap parts in our efforts to find the problems, and if we could not fix the problems by swapping parts, we could always do an engine swap.
Fuel,
Be careful when testing for fuel ‘flow’, i.e. ‘open’ fuel lines, testing pressure and flow, etc. It does not take much to ignite the fuel or the fuel vapors.
If you have to drain fuel from the cylinders, remove the spark plugs, move the cords to the other side of the engine, put towels underneath the sparkplug hole and cover the hole, ALL before you crank the engine (if not, you will have fuel all over the engine, up in the air and maybe you).
Best place to do this: outside!
Thanks again for all the help from you all.
Thanks for all pointers and information.
The problem was with the Fuel Distributor and the Start Valve.
To help any fellow DIY, who would face a similar problem, let me try to summarize what we did.
Since there was no fuel on the injector lines (with fuel pump running) BUT plenty of fuel on the Start Valve fuel line, return line and fuel distributor lower chamber (fuel distributor pressure test point), we figured that something got to be wrong with the fuel distributor.
We disconnected the fuel distributor and removed it from the car. Disassembled the distributor, cleaned all the ‘lines’ with carburetor cleaner (and air/compressor), assembled it and re-installed it.
This fixed the problem with fuel to the fuel injector lines (with the fuel pump running – plenty of fuel on the fuel injector lines).
BUT, with the fuel pump running, it sounded like a lot of fuel was running through the distributor!! The engine did not start AND stopped cranking…NOW the engine was flooding.. There was so much fuel in the cylinders that the starter could not turn the engine.
After draining the fuel (by removing the spark plug) a couple of times it was evident that something else was wrong. Actually, the flooding was so severe that we also got fuel in the engine oil.
The next possible problem (the only one left that we could think of) was the Start Valve. So, we swapped out the Start Valve (and the fuel distributor, just to eliminate this as a problem source).
The engine STARTED at the first go - problem solved.
We shut the engine down right away, because of the problem with fuel in the engine oil. Drained the oil-fuel ‘mixture’ and added new/fresh oil. Started the engine to run the oil through the engine and burn off all the excessive fuel (first some fuel came out the exhaust, then a lot of white smoke).
Drained the oil, replaced the filter and added new engine oil.
Drove the car for about 10 miles - Now it starts at the first crank and runs better than ever.
After more that 200 miles, the engine oil looks and feels new (and does not smell of fuel).
Long story, but happy ending.
Just a couple of pointers:
Fuel distributor,
Be extremely careful if you decide to disassemble it. The diaphragm inside the unit breaks easily and it’s difficult to put back together.
Parts,
Considering the possible severity of the problem, we bought a ‘new’ engine (only 80K miles). With the spare engine, we can swap parts in our efforts to find the problems, and if we could not fix the problems by swapping parts, we could always do an engine swap.
Fuel,
Be careful when testing for fuel ‘flow’, i.e. ‘open’ fuel lines, testing pressure and flow, etc. It does not take much to ignite the fuel or the fuel vapors.
If you have to drain fuel from the cylinders, remove the spark plugs, move the cords to the other side of the engine, put towels underneath the sparkplug hole and cover the hole, ALL before you crank the engine (if not, you will have fuel all over the engine, up in the air and maybe you).
Best place to do this: outside!
Thanks again for all the help from you all.
