86 190e 2.3 help please!!
08-16-2006, 01:34 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
86 190e 2.3 help please!!
i just got the car and couple of thing dont work one the sunroof when i push the relay nothing happens no noise or anything. the odometer and trip and clock doesn't work but everyhting else does? wtf. then the previous owner put the euro lights on but the light don't have the 6 prong plug harness you know the black cube piece and not hooked in correct. any advice helps!!!
08-16-2006, 02:56 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Arizonai
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
1) Sunroof. Check fuse no. 19 (red), but that fuse also covers the circuits for the cigar lighter, glove box light, heated rear window, and radio, so if those devices work, then it's not likely the fuse. The motor for the sunroof is located in the trunk, forward of the radio antenna, behind the plastic wall. Check for motor sounds there.
2) Instruments. The odometer is grear driven, not electric, from the speedometer, so no fuses or circuits. It is likely that a gear has either stripped or come loose from the assembly. Usually it's the "trip odometer" not the main that fails, primarily from a design fault by VDO. Porsche, Volvo and other VDO equiped cars from the era suffer the same problems. The trip odometer gets prematurely worn when drivers reset to zero while the car is in motion, so avoid that.
The clock is purely electrical and the typical fault that stops the clock is a very inexpensive capacitor in the works, but fixing it is a pain.
Your best bet is to find a used working instrument cluster for about $40, set the mileage to what your is and then install it. Be sure to get a cluster that has the same tach redline and warning gauges, since over the years and with different engines, the cluster layout had some subtle changes. Best to stick with your year if possible.
2) Instruments. The odometer is grear driven, not electric, from the speedometer, so no fuses or circuits. It is likely that a gear has either stripped or come loose from the assembly. Usually it's the "trip odometer" not the main that fails, primarily from a design fault by VDO. Porsche, Volvo and other VDO equiped cars from the era suffer the same problems. The trip odometer gets prematurely worn when drivers reset to zero while the car is in motion, so avoid that.
The clock is purely electrical and the typical fault that stops the clock is a very inexpensive capacitor in the works, but fixing it is a pain.
Your best bet is to find a used working instrument cluster for about $40, set the mileage to what your is and then install it. Be sure to get a cluster that has the same tach redline and warning gauges, since over the years and with different engines, the cluster layout had some subtle changes. Best to stick with your year if possible.
08-16-2006, 04:48 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Arizonai
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
The euros use the 6 pin socket, which is the same socket that your tail light assembly uses, so it's a cheap and easy part to get from the dealership.
qty (2) - 006 545 80 28 - six-pin electrical connector, socket
qty (2) - 009 545 30 28 - six-pin electrical connector, cover
These parts replace the 4 pin US plug on each side with a six pin plug, however the actual wire and pins from the US plug are re-used by repositioning them in the six pin electrical connector.
If you want to wire the City Lights to the front driving lights, you'll need a
Low wattage soldering iron & solder, wire stripper and cutter, approx. 24 inches of 12-16 gauge stranded automotive wire and:
qty (2) - 003 545 26 26 - pin, connector
qty (2) snap type wire splices
Open the existing 4 pin electrical connector with the small flat blade screw driver, noting the pin number reference on the face of the connector. Write down the number and wire colors as a reminder.
Prepare the City Light jumper cable by soldering one of the new pin connectors to the wire and trim any excess solder or wire so that the pin fits into the number 3 position of the new connector cleanly.
Put pin 2 (brown wire) into socket 2
Put pin 1 (green wire) into socket 6
Put pin 3 (yellow wire) into socket 5
Put pin 4 (white wire) into socket 4
The City Light jumper is connected via the snap type wire splice by opening the side marker wire connector and locating the wire that powers the running light. The wire, of the 3 present, is the one that is not paired and has an empty connector socket on the same side. Carefully make an incision into the plastic insulation jacket that holds the 3 wires, find the proper wire and make the splice. Cover the cut into the insulation with the electrical tape.
qty (2) - 006 545 80 28 - six-pin electrical connector, socket
qty (2) - 009 545 30 28 - six-pin electrical connector, cover
These parts replace the 4 pin US plug on each side with a six pin plug, however the actual wire and pins from the US plug are re-used by repositioning them in the six pin electrical connector.
If you want to wire the City Lights to the front driving lights, you'll need a
Low wattage soldering iron & solder, wire stripper and cutter, approx. 24 inches of 12-16 gauge stranded automotive wire and:
qty (2) - 003 545 26 26 - pin, connector
qty (2) snap type wire splices
Open the existing 4 pin electrical connector with the small flat blade screw driver, noting the pin number reference on the face of the connector. Write down the number and wire colors as a reminder.
Prepare the City Light jumper cable by soldering one of the new pin connectors to the wire and trim any excess solder or wire so that the pin fits into the number 3 position of the new connector cleanly.
Put pin 2 (brown wire) into socket 2
Put pin 1 (green wire) into socket 6
Put pin 3 (yellow wire) into socket 5
Put pin 4 (white wire) into socket 4
The City Light jumper is connected via the snap type wire splice by opening the side marker wire connector and locating the wire that powers the running light. The wire, of the 3 present, is the one that is not paired and has an empty connector socket on the same side. Carefully make an incision into the plastic insulation jacket that holds the 3 wires, find the proper wire and make the splice. Cover the cut into the insulation with the electrical tape.
08-22-2006, 10:16 AM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sweet that got fixed good work, next question when starting my car pretty much 80% of the time i have to start the car twice for it actually to start what i do? a/c does not work correct blows half *** warm air and drains gas like u can watch the gas gauge to go down
09-27-2006, 04:41 PM
#7
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's weird man, you basically just described all the problems that I'm having with my car, odo doesn't work, clock doesn't work, and the sunroof doesn't work
I'm not too concerned with the odo, but the sunroof really bugs me
I'm not too concerned with the odo, but the sunroof really bugs me
