LS-190 **V8 engine swap with pics**
#127
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
Space can be kind of tight but if you're using twin turbos then you can mount them in front of the engine with the turbo headers facing forward, then take the exhaust out the passenger side and out the back. It's a bit tighter but you have more latitude not having to run long tube headers down under the engine. If you follow the beginning of the thread you'll see how the W210 steering rack and custom engine cross member are built. This car is built this way due to the rear sump oil pan. If you use a front sump oil pan you can leave the original cross member and just do some creative trimming. Either way a rack and pinion is needed for space constraints.
#130
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10 C63/p31, 84 190/5.8L, 14 Audi Q5 TDI, 03 Suburban /8.1, 87 Porsche 944/358" 77 Ferrari 308 Dino
The VW rack is from an older (mid 80s) Golf/Jetta. I had to cut the tie rods down some 2" on each side and then used VW Quantum tie rod ends to hook up correctly to the 124 steering arms and knuckles. I mounted a self centering bearing to the firewall and used a universal steering joint to line up with the rack....all 3/4" stuff. Inside the firewall is altered some to connect up to the original column parts.
The rack is mounted to a separate plate that bolts up under the rear of the pan to the crossmember and then to each side to the lower control arm points. This also stiffens up across the lower control arms.
The reasons to use the Ford motor are three...... 1. distributor in front so engine can go further back and not interfere with HVAC. 2. SBF lighter than a SBC and 3. MB chassis is a front sump chassis and SBF is a front sump oil pan. The VW rack is a rear steer rack.
Understand all this ????
The rack is mounted to a separate plate that bolts up under the rear of the pan to the crossmember and then to each side to the lower control arm points. This also stiffens up across the lower control arms.
The reasons to use the Ford motor are three...... 1. distributor in front so engine can go further back and not interfere with HVAC. 2. SBF lighter than a SBC and 3. MB chassis is a front sump chassis and SBF is a front sump oil pan. The VW rack is a rear steer rack.
Understand all this ????
Last edited by TobiasMB; 08-08-2012 at 09:48 AM. Reason: clarity
#132
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
The VW rack is from an older Golf/Jetta. I had to cut the tie rods down some 2" on each side and then used VW Quantum tie rod ends to hook up correctly to the 124 steering arms and knuckles. I mounted a self centering bearing to the firewall and used a universal steering joint to line up with the rack....all 3/4" stuff. Inside the firewall is altered some to connect up to the original column parts.
The rack is mounted to a separate plate that bolts up under the rear of the pan to the crossmember and then to each side to the lower steering arm rear bushings. This also stiffens up across the lower control arms.
The reasons to use the Ford motor are three...... 1. distributor in front so engine can go further back and not interfere with HVAC. 2. SBF lighter than a SBC and 3. MB chassis is a front sump chassis and SBF is a front sump oil pan. The VW rack is a rear steer rack.
Understand all this ????
The rack is mounted to a separate plate that bolts up under the rear of the pan to the crossmember and then to each side to the lower steering arm rear bushings. This also stiffens up across the lower control arms.
The reasons to use the Ford motor are three...... 1. distributor in front so engine can go further back and not interfere with HVAC. 2. SBF lighter than a SBC and 3. MB chassis is a front sump chassis and SBF is a front sump oil pan. The VW rack is a rear steer rack.
Understand all this ????
#134
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
You mean my F-bomb? It's pretty good. With my set-up and premium fuel it's at 486hp with a conservative fuel curve. These engines got very popular in the late 90's with the fox body mustang crowd and long stroke crankshafts being offered cheap...instant horsepower. I just want it powerfull enough to scare the crap out of the M3 and C63 crowd. Maybe I'm being too optimistic....naaaaaa. Oh and yes I'm carbed right now but soon it'll have mpfi with standalone.
Last edited by onetwentyfour; 08-08-2012 at 12:19 AM.
#136
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Its going to be hard to put the power down without breaking stuff in a 190 unless you back half it and cut out the floor for a 9 inch rear, th400, chromolly driveshaft
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10 C63/p31, 84 190/5.8L, 14 Audi Q5 TDI, 03 Suburban /8.1, 87 Porsche 944/358" 77 Ferrari 308 Dino
It all depends of what your tire contact patch is and the durometer of the rubber of the rear tires. I've had no problems with the Ford 8.8 IRS diff in my 190 and still use the oe outer hubs and bearings and using Hoosier A6s. Best thing to be rid of is the two piece driveshaft. I originally had an aluminum Corvette diff in the car but was restrcted to the gear choices available so I changed it.
The latest thing that LS engine swappers into Porsche 944s are putting in the whole Vette driveline with a rear transaxle.
The latest thing that LS engine swappers into Porsche 944s are putting in the whole Vette driveline with a rear transaxle.
#138
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You road race race your car not drag race it. A ford 8.8 would work but the stock axle ends are a joke. I know you're making 450 crank HP, and 400 torque. No offense, but that's not much power. Try hooking up twice that power on a hard launch from a stand still. I have about 5 sheared axle ends for proof. You also cut your fenders and quarter panel to fit wider tires.
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
Tobias, your 8.8 set up sounds very interesting. I know there are lots of gear and traction control choices available for it. Any pics of it available? I'm trying to picture the transition to u joints. How are the hoosiers wearing?
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
Blackbenzz, weight has a lot to do with the breakage of parts from a standing start, especially in drag racing. We're sure the OE type parts were never intended for such service. You're going to need some combination of chromolly and 300M parts to cope. Also if the spines are worn just a little you can replace one or the other over and over with no good end. They have to wear together or they'll shear under heavy load. Curious about your set up though...
#141
Out Of Control!!
Blackbenzz, weight has a lot to do with the breakage of parts from a standing start, especially in drag racing. We're sure the OE type parts were never intended for such service. You're going to need some combination of chromolly and 300M parts to cope. Also if the spines are worn just a little you can replace one or the other over and over with no good end. They have to wear together or they'll shear under heavy load. Curious about your set up though...
#142
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1986 190E 6.7-16, 2004 500SL, 1971 350 SE Euro
Not really planning any drag racing. Sorry to come off like a knowitall. I'm sure you've run the course with part mods and redesign. I'm going to considerable lengths to make mine a street car. But you're right a 9" is the way to go for drag racing. A drag 190E would be an interesting project.
#145
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e36 318i, 2004 sti
Found a 190 im most likely buying tomorow. A 1989 2.6 I6. 148k miles. power seats, leather. The body looks good like no frame damage. The motor could definitely use a tune up! Getting it for $1089 out the door!
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e36 318i, 2004 sti
Test drove the car yesterday. Was extremely disappointed. It was on craigslist as a private owner. Owner gave me a address that turned into a dealership...Car BARELY idles. When we drove it the tranny does not shift on time and when it does its a loud and hard clunk. (automatic). Hvac has been cut on with old lines remaining. Missing vac lines on the intake. Oil leak and coolant leak. On the good side the shell looks to be in great condition. No signs of an accident. I may offer them $500 next week. They want $1500..