Chiro

Having a heck of a time getting off the cover for the blower motor. I have released the clips but unsure how it is attached at the bottom. I have removed the screws for the firewall and pulled it up and forward a bit...do you have to remove the coolant hoses and electrical bundled wiring and remove the firewall completely? Any help much appreciated.

Chiro

Gullwing

Don't need to remove any coolant lines, Probably just a few clips you haven't found yet.

If it is just a noisy blower, put a little trans fluid on the bearings.

Chiro

Thanks Gullwing. Went back to the job this morning and as you guessed I had not released 2 front clips..didn't see them initially. The motor was squealing and not working on the lowest setting. Pulled out the motor ,cleaned it up and lubricated it...reinstalled and runs perfectly. The front windshield had been fogging for the last few years (winter in Canada) so I am certain this will help.

A few gems for those of you that have not done this yet.
1. TAke pictures at different intervals of the job
2. Haynes manual suggests to remove the center portion of the firewall..6 screws, I did but don't think it was necessary.
3.remove the wiper motor,3 bolts plus nut and washer , from the linkage before removing the wiper linkage. Just leave the motor wear it lies.
4. when removing the bell arm from the wiper motor take a pic so you remember the alignment.
5. Once the wiper linkage is out remove all 8 clips on the blower motor housing and remove it
6. now the blower motor is exposed, carefully remove the large retaining clip..you could bend a metal hangar to hook the clip through the hole a carefully pull it up and forward.
7. Mercedes wanted $650 for new assembly, you can buy just the motor for $97 and re and re the squirrel cage fans ...very carefully,apparently the trick is to use a punch to drive the shaft out of the fan and not the reverse. However a good cleaning and lubricating may be all you need.
Good luck..not a difficult job

MTI

Lubricating bearing squeal is usually only a temporary fix, so replacement is a wise choice.

Bearing wear is pretty easy to diagnose. The sound will be generated or worsened when accelerating, braking or cornering when the fan is on, due to the directional forces on the motor.

Gullwing

Temp sure, but I did mine a year or two ago and it has been great since.
Three drops of trans fluid is better right now then a few hundred for a new motor

turbofrank

while you are there check the 2 wires my hotwire had a knot which was causing a short.