'88 190e 2.6 Won't Start
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190e 2.6
'88 190e 2.6 Won't Start
It began with the usual stalling at long red lights and graduated with just cranking but no start at all. Just wunderbar! I have changed the following but to no avail.
1) OVP (used but works good)
2) ECU (used but works good)
3) H2O Sensor (at back of block)
4) ICU (and made sure the two connector ends had no leaks)
5) O2 Sensor (brand new)
6) Distributor Cap (same but thoroughly cleaned)
7) Rotor (same as above)
8) Wires (all providing normal sparks)
9) New Plugs (all conducting sparks)
10) New Coil (used but conducts current providing sparks, old one gone)
11) New Distributor Module (used but works fine)
12) New Distributor (same as above)
13) New CPS (same as above)
14) Brand New Battery 700 CCA (190e 2.6 needs 550 CCA minimum)
15) Fuel Pump works (confirmed by mechanic)
16) Fuel Pump Relay - *********DON'T KNOW!*********
When I try to start it these days I don't even step on the gas pedal any more because just a few seconds into the cranking I can smell the gas coming into the driver space, and it originates somewhere from under the hood by the spider. Help. Is it a fuel injector problem or, hopefully simpler, an FPR issue?
If FPR, is that the relay that is in front of the Klimate relay both next to the OVP behind the battery? Thank you for your opins/feedbacks in advance.
Anthony
San Francisco
Proud owner of a 1992 190e 2.6 which still runs like a champ.
So-so owner of a 1988 190e 2.6 which is nothing but works!
1) OVP (used but works good)
2) ECU (used but works good)
3) H2O Sensor (at back of block)
4) ICU (and made sure the two connector ends had no leaks)
5) O2 Sensor (brand new)
6) Distributor Cap (same but thoroughly cleaned)
7) Rotor (same as above)
8) Wires (all providing normal sparks)
9) New Plugs (all conducting sparks)
10) New Coil (used but conducts current providing sparks, old one gone)
11) New Distributor Module (used but works fine)
12) New Distributor (same as above)
13) New CPS (same as above)
14) Brand New Battery 700 CCA (190e 2.6 needs 550 CCA minimum)
15) Fuel Pump works (confirmed by mechanic)
16) Fuel Pump Relay - *********DON'T KNOW!*********
When I try to start it these days I don't even step on the gas pedal any more because just a few seconds into the cranking I can smell the gas coming into the driver space, and it originates somewhere from under the hood by the spider. Help. Is it a fuel injector problem or, hopefully simpler, an FPR issue?
If FPR, is that the relay that is in front of the Klimate relay both next to the OVP behind the battery? Thank you for your opins/feedbacks in advance.
Anthony
San Francisco
Proud owner of a 1992 190e 2.6 which still runs like a champ.
So-so owner of a 1988 190e 2.6 which is nothing but works!
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
2002 CLK55, 1993 190E, 1975 230C, 2007 E350
fuel pressure regulator
Your symptoms sound like fuel rather than ignition - you have not touched your fuel regulator yet - it limits the pressure to the injectors, and they do go bad on occasion - if the thing is leaking (body from the sound of it) you will have the symptoms you are describing. If your plugs are getting black (rich), I would suspect the thing.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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190e 2.6
It WAS the FPR!
Thank you for your input on the no-start causation. Ignition system or fuel system.
This afternoon I finally took out the FPR relay next to the OVP and took it apart to examine. There was one solder joint which had become lose, and it was one which connected to a pin. I soldered it back and made sure it sat firm. Then I placed the relay back to its base, connected the battery charges and cranked up the car.
First try, nothing. But on second attempt I noticed there was a faint "cough" in the cranking, so on the third attempt I let it free crank while stepping on the gas pedal rapidly and, finally at long last, it STARTED UP! When I raved the engine the firing was sharp in that there was no hesitation, no misfire sputtering. After about 10 seconds or so it stopped. But at least now the culprit is identified, and it was none other than the FUEL PUMP RELAY! I am going to a yard tomorrow and get a couple of those relays and hopefully all will return to normal thereafter.
This afternoon I finally took out the FPR relay next to the OVP and took it apart to examine. There was one solder joint which had become lose, and it was one which connected to a pin. I soldered it back and made sure it sat firm. Then I placed the relay back to its base, connected the battery charges and cranked up the car.
First try, nothing. But on second attempt I noticed there was a faint "cough" in the cranking, so on the third attempt I let it free crank while stepping on the gas pedal rapidly and, finally at long last, it STARTED UP! When I raved the engine the firing was sharp in that there was no hesitation, no misfire sputtering. After about 10 seconds or so it stopped. But at least now the culprit is identified, and it was none other than the FUEL PUMP RELAY! I am going to a yard tomorrow and get a couple of those relays and hopefully all will return to normal thereafter.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
190e 2.6
Your symptoms sound like fuel rather than ignition - you have not touched your fuel regulator yet - it limits the pressure to the injectors, and they do go bad on occasion - if the thing is leaking (body from the sound of it) you will have the symptoms you are describing. If your plugs are getting black (rich), I would suspect the thing.
Now when the engine is cranked, it cranks and cranks with many intermitent "coughs". 3 times it actually started up but all lasted less than a minute in free running.
This afternoon I took the FPR - NOT the Fuel Pump Relay but the Fuel Pressure Regulator at the back of the injector. No sooner than I loosened up the second screw the gas immediately shot out. Does this fit in your description of "leaking (body from the sound of it) so this is ultimately the prevailing causation for my no-start situation?
Thanks.
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
2002 CLK55, 1993 190E, 1975 230C, 2007 E350
diaphragm
They usually leak around the diaphragm - sometimes it gets into the vacuum system. One check is to watch the fuel pressure after the car is turned off - if it drops more than a few PSI in an hour, I would suspect the regulator given everything else. I know the MB ones are expensive, but you might try a holley or mallory one (along with a bit of fuel rail rigging) - they both make adjustable ones that are fine for high horsepower applications. Or you could pull one from a yard and try that. Everything that you have tried still points in the same direction. There should be a schrader valve that you can screw a pressure gauge on and watch. The Mallory ones I use are only about 100 bucks, but I might test your injectors too - they just pop out when you take out the rail, and most auto parts stores will test them for free.
Last edited by lsboogy; Jul 5, 2011 at 02:06 AM.
