Help me build a track car. Chassis questions.
08-02-2016, 04:50 PM
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e46 m3
Help me build a track car. Chassis questions.
Planning a track car build for the winter. Have been between an e36 and a w201 and have decided on the 190e. (I know it will be a more difficult build).
I know Bimmers much better than these old cars, so hoping you experts can answer some questions;
I'm trying to decide if I should first build up the chassis, suspension etc and refresh the stock motor then play with that until i blow the motor. Once I blow the motor I plan to do a 1jz or LS swap. I have a good friend who is a world class fabricator and willing to help build this thing.
OR
I go straight to the motor swap. Now here is my question:
Obviously, if I plan to refresh the stock motor and track that for a season or two, the 16v is pretty much necessary. However, if I plan to go right into the swap I'm wondering if the 16v is really necessary?
How much better is the chassis of the 16v than the base models overall? Is it more Rigid? Is it lighter?
Will I need to modify the strut tower/ housing no matter what? Or can the 16v get low enough with one of the coilover conversion kits? (This wont be a full race car as I will drive it to and from track + mountain roads. So I don't need a full race setup, but certainly something that can handle well on track). I see that the member currently building his track car has started with a 16v and still done all the modifications.
If I decide to pick up a 16v and run the stock motor for a while, what would it take to get the engine trackable?
Lastly, are any of the 190e engines decent turbo foundations?
I know Bimmers much better than these old cars, so hoping you experts can answer some questions;
I'm trying to decide if I should first build up the chassis, suspension etc and refresh the stock motor then play with that until i blow the motor. Once I blow the motor I plan to do a 1jz or LS swap. I have a good friend who is a world class fabricator and willing to help build this thing.
OR
I go straight to the motor swap. Now here is my question:
Obviously, if I plan to refresh the stock motor and track that for a season or two, the 16v is pretty much necessary. However, if I plan to go right into the swap I'm wondering if the 16v is really necessary?
How much better is the chassis of the 16v than the base models overall? Is it more Rigid? Is it lighter?
Will I need to modify the strut tower/ housing no matter what? Or can the 16v get low enough with one of the coilover conversion kits? (This wont be a full race car as I will drive it to and from track + mountain roads. So I don't need a full race setup, but certainly something that can handle well on track). I see that the member currently building his track car has started with a 16v and still done all the modifications.
If I decide to pick up a 16v and run the stock motor for a while, what would it take to get the engine trackable?
Lastly, are any of the 190e engines decent turbo foundations?
09-07-2016, 06:54 PM
#2
Super Member
Well first of all great choice !!! 16v are a great base to start with!! You can really build something fast and which will be tons of funs and more unique than all the m3 ...
Regarding the chassis if you want over 300hp you will need to get coil-overs KW or H&R and strengthen some other parts.
I would not go for a turbo s up, many engine specialst, especially the best like ATEC and Stadler for 16v's and evo's are against it.
However you could go with a Komoressor which is what ATEC offers so you will get lots of torque which ultimately feels faster...
After a lot of thinking and analyzing ... I wanted "real dtm" sound and a 8500 rpm engine so I went with a 322hp NA engine close to dtm spec from 1989.
What is your budget roughly ?
Regarding the chassis if you want over 300hp you will need to get coil-overs KW or H&R and strengthen some other parts.
I would not go for a turbo s up, many engine specialst, especially the best like ATEC and Stadler for 16v's and evo's are against it.
However you could go with a Komoressor which is what ATEC offers so you will get lots of torque which ultimately feels faster...
After a lot of thinking and analyzing ... I wanted "real dtm" sound and a 8500 rpm engine so I went with a 322hp NA engine close to dtm spec from 1989.
What is your budget roughly ?
