Installing european headlights into a 190e (different socket type)
11-06-2004, 05:10 PM
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190e 2.6L Straight OHC 6 Cylinder
Installing european headlights into a 190e (different socket type)
I got these european headlights for my 190e. The only problem is that the socket that you plug the power into is the wrong type so I can't give them power. Any ideas? Could I possibly install a new plug or socket into the lights? If so let me know where I can get them... Help much appreciated.
11-06-2004, 07:52 PM
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1993 190E 2.3
Euro lights
I've installed the euro lights, I'll try to find you some pics (if they didn't disappear with my last hard drive crash!). The actual headlight socket will fit, but you have to pop the cap off the back and rearrange the wires. What I did was set the whole headlight on top of the engine so I could see it from inside the car; then I just kept switching till it worked (keep extra fuses handy).
The big trick is the turn signals. In Europe, the side marker light is behind the front wheel well, with an additional bulb in the headlight itself. In the states, we have a dual filament bulb in the turn signal; low watt for marker and higher watt for turn signal. If you've got the Euro turn signals you'll only have a single filament bulb. For this you take the whole socket, bulb and all, from your old signals, and get a small file to make it fit in the new housing. File one groove in the housing directly across from one of the existing ones. With a sharp knife you can make a bit of a slope (look at the existing grooves). On the socket itself, the two tabs that go into the grooves are probably too thick so you can't push it in far enough to twist it. Shave a bit off the two tabs from the wiring side. If you want to, you can splice the wire from the marker light (blue I think), and connect it to the Euro marker bulb in the headlight, or it's also a perfect place to put straight tube strobes if you're into that sort of thing.
If you insist on using the single filament turn signal bulb and socket that came with the kit, you'll need to get a bit creative and drill an extra hole so that you can mount the socket diagonally. But you won't pass inspection without a marker bulb in the turn signal or separately on the fender.
Dan
The big trick is the turn signals. In Europe, the side marker light is behind the front wheel well, with an additional bulb in the headlight itself. In the states, we have a dual filament bulb in the turn signal; low watt for marker and higher watt for turn signal. If you've got the Euro turn signals you'll only have a single filament bulb. For this you take the whole socket, bulb and all, from your old signals, and get a small file to make it fit in the new housing. File one groove in the housing directly across from one of the existing ones. With a sharp knife you can make a bit of a slope (look at the existing grooves). On the socket itself, the two tabs that go into the grooves are probably too thick so you can't push it in far enough to twist it. Shave a bit off the two tabs from the wiring side. If you want to, you can splice the wire from the marker light (blue I think), and connect it to the Euro marker bulb in the headlight, or it's also a perfect place to put straight tube strobes if you're into that sort of thing.
If you insist on using the single filament turn signal bulb and socket that came with the kit, you'll need to get a bit creative and drill an extra hole so that you can mount the socket diagonally. But you won't pass inspection without a marker bulb in the turn signal or separately on the fender.
Dan
11-06-2004, 07:58 PM
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1993 190E 2.3
pics are history
sorry, the pics are gone.
read my post and tell me if it answers your question, or if it helps you to come up with more questions.
I'll try to get some new pics in the morning.
Dan
read my post and tell me if it answers your question, or if it helps you to come up with more questions.
I'll try to get some new pics in the morning.
Dan
11-06-2004, 08:00 PM
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'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
WHAT DO I NEED TO INSTALL THEM?
Luckily, this is a DIY job.
Hardware:
8mm socket & driver
8-12 inch socket extension
Small Flat Bladed screwdriver
Utility knife
Electrical tape
Unless your lights came with a Euro (six pin) to US (4 pin) adapter plug or harness, you will also need to get these from the dealer:
qty (2) - 006 545 80 28 - six-pin electrical connector, socket
qty (2) - 009 545 30 28 - six-pin electrical connector, cover
These parts replace the 4 pin US plug on each side with a six pin plug, however the actual wire and pins from the US plug are re-used by repositioning them in the six pin electrical connector.
To wire the City Lights to the front driving lights:
Low wattage soldering iron & solder
Wire stripper and cutter
Approx. 24 inches of 12-16 gauge stranded automotive wire
qty (2) - 003 545 26 26 - pin, connector
qty (2) snap type wire splices
1) Open hood
2) Disconnect Battery
3) Due to the ease of access, consider doing the driver’s side first, then the passenger’s side.
4) Unplug the 4 pin electrical connector from the headlight assembly.
5) Undo the round plastic nut that holds the side marker to the headlight assembly; remove the bulb holder from the side marker wiring connector and remove the side marker assembly.
6) Below the headlight, remove the body colored filler piece held in with a single 8mm bolt.
7) Carefully remove the L-shaped rubber gasket skirt. If still useable, clean it up and set aside to dry, otherwise you may have to buy another one.
8) With the rubber skirt removed you will have access to the 8mm bolt located under the middle of the headlight but set far back on the unit. Use the socket extension to remove the bolt.
9) Remove the two 8mm bolts at the top of the headlight unit and the whole assembly will pull free of the chassis.
10) Open the existing 4 pin electrical connector with the small flat blade screw driver, noting the pin number reference on the face of the connector. Write down the number and wire colors as a reminder.
11) Prepare the City Light jumper cable by soldering one of the new pin connectors to the wire and trim any excess solder or wire so that the pin fits into the number 3 position of the new connector cleanly.
12) Put pin 2 (brown wire) into socket 2
Put pin 1 (green wire) into socket 6
Put pin 3 (yellow wire) into socket 5
Put pin 4 (white wire) into socket 4
13) The City Light jumper is connected via the snap type wire splice by opening the side marker wire connector and locating the wire that powers the running light. The wire, of the 3 present, is the one that is not paired and has an empty connector socket on the same side. Carefully make an incision into the plastic insulation jacket that holds the 3 wires, find the proper wire and make the splice. Cover the cut into the insulation with the electrical tape.
14) Test fit the new headlight assembly in the opening and connect the new electrical connector to the back of the assembly.
15) Reconnect the side marker bulb holder temporarily.
16) Reconnect the battery and test the lights, including high beams, fogs and turn signals.
17) Once proper operation is confirmed, secure the headlight assembly by reversal of the removal procedure.
18) After installation, the main beams will have to be aligned and I recommend that you have a shop with the proper alignment target do this. For a quick and dirty setup, at night park your car on flat ground so that its headlamps are 25 ft. away from a vertical wall that is perpendicular to the ground. Measure the distance between the center of your headlamps and the ground. Use this measurement (distance 'H') to mark a horizontal line (up from ground level) along the wall. Turn on your low beams and observe where the light beams fall on the wall. Adjust your headlamps so that the distance between the upper edge of the lighted area is at least one-tenth of distance 'H' below the horizontal line on the wall indicating the center of your headlamps. Example: If distance 'H' is 48in., then the distance between the upper edge of the lighted area and the line on the wall indicating the center of your headlamp [0.1 x 48 = 4.8 in] should be not less than 4.8 in..
Luckily, this is a DIY job.
Hardware:
8mm socket & driver
8-12 inch socket extension
Small Flat Bladed screwdriver
Utility knife
Electrical tape
Unless your lights came with a Euro (six pin) to US (4 pin) adapter plug or harness, you will also need to get these from the dealer:
qty (2) - 006 545 80 28 - six-pin electrical connector, socket
qty (2) - 009 545 30 28 - six-pin electrical connector, cover
These parts replace the 4 pin US plug on each side with a six pin plug, however the actual wire and pins from the US plug are re-used by repositioning them in the six pin electrical connector.
To wire the City Lights to the front driving lights:
Low wattage soldering iron & solder
Wire stripper and cutter
Approx. 24 inches of 12-16 gauge stranded automotive wire
qty (2) - 003 545 26 26 - pin, connector
qty (2) snap type wire splices
1) Open hood
2) Disconnect Battery
3) Due to the ease of access, consider doing the driver’s side first, then the passenger’s side.
4) Unplug the 4 pin electrical connector from the headlight assembly.
5) Undo the round plastic nut that holds the side marker to the headlight assembly; remove the bulb holder from the side marker wiring connector and remove the side marker assembly.
6) Below the headlight, remove the body colored filler piece held in with a single 8mm bolt.
7) Carefully remove the L-shaped rubber gasket skirt. If still useable, clean it up and set aside to dry, otherwise you may have to buy another one.
8) With the rubber skirt removed you will have access to the 8mm bolt located under the middle of the headlight but set far back on the unit. Use the socket extension to remove the bolt.
9) Remove the two 8mm bolts at the top of the headlight unit and the whole assembly will pull free of the chassis.
10) Open the existing 4 pin electrical connector with the small flat blade screw driver, noting the pin number reference on the face of the connector. Write down the number and wire colors as a reminder.
11) Prepare the City Light jumper cable by soldering one of the new pin connectors to the wire and trim any excess solder or wire so that the pin fits into the number 3 position of the new connector cleanly.
12) Put pin 2 (brown wire) into socket 2
Put pin 1 (green wire) into socket 6
Put pin 3 (yellow wire) into socket 5
Put pin 4 (white wire) into socket 4
13) The City Light jumper is connected via the snap type wire splice by opening the side marker wire connector and locating the wire that powers the running light. The wire, of the 3 present, is the one that is not paired and has an empty connector socket on the same side. Carefully make an incision into the plastic insulation jacket that holds the 3 wires, find the proper wire and make the splice. Cover the cut into the insulation with the electrical tape.
14) Test fit the new headlight assembly in the opening and connect the new electrical connector to the back of the assembly.
15) Reconnect the side marker bulb holder temporarily.
16) Reconnect the battery and test the lights, including high beams, fogs and turn signals.
17) Once proper operation is confirmed, secure the headlight assembly by reversal of the removal procedure.
18) After installation, the main beams will have to be aligned and I recommend that you have a shop with the proper alignment target do this. For a quick and dirty setup, at night park your car on flat ground so that its headlamps are 25 ft. away from a vertical wall that is perpendicular to the ground. Measure the distance between the center of your headlamps and the ground. Use this measurement (distance 'H') to mark a horizontal line (up from ground level) along the wall. Turn on your low beams and observe where the light beams fall on the wall. Adjust your headlamps so that the distance between the upper edge of the lighted area is at least one-tenth of distance 'H' below the horizontal line on the wall indicating the center of your headlamps. Example: If distance 'H' is 48in., then the distance between the upper edge of the lighted area and the line on the wall indicating the center of your headlamp [0.1 x 48 = 4.8 in] should be not less than 4.8 in..
11-06-2004, 09:30 PM
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190e 2.6L Straight OHC 6 Cylinder
wow thanks a lot. Any idea where I can obtain these 6 socket connectors? I'm guessing I could take a trip to a mercedes dealership and pick some up?
03-27-2019, 07:58 PM
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1993 Mercedes 190E
City lights
So when I spliced the wire on the left side for the city light everything worked but when I went to splice the right side there was an extra black wire to the pin. I spliced into the gray but then I had no turn signals. Can you help?
