190E Build Thread (Turbo+EVO 2)
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Another mundane update, but another problem sorted... The factory power steering cooler was in the way of where I plan to mount the intercooler, so I replaced it with one pilfered from a Nissan 370Z.
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Not much of an update as I've been extremely busy with work/house projects/tinkering with the 928, but I did get a gauge panel 3d printed to replace the cassette holder and pulled the radio out to replace it as well.
Just waiting on a wideband AFR gauge to finish the install.
Just waiting on a wideband AFR gauge to finish the install.
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Thanks! I wish I had more progress to share. I just haven't had much time to mess with it recently.
Pretty modest goals off the bat. I'd like to see around 200 at the wheels with the CIS. I'm going to start with about 5psi of boost and then bump it up to around 7. If I want to push much past that I'll likely end up doing a full EFI conversion down the line.
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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I heard that the KJetronic can be boosted 10-15psi without trouble. That is an extra 50-80 HP. That should be plenty for all around driving.
Let us know how it turns out! Nice gauges BTW.
Let us know how it turns out! Nice gauges BTW.
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My understanding is that 7-8 PSI is about the max Kjet can take without in stockish form
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And the last of the interior updates... Now to get back to work under the hood
Finding an AFR gauge that was a good match for the retro VDO gauges was a pain in the ***, this one isn't perfect, but it will do.
Finding an AFR gauge that was a good match for the retro VDO gauges was a pain in the ***, this one isn't perfect, but it will do.
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Got a new bit of kit in. M103 turbo manifold from Kangaroos Team, thanks to another classic benz tinkerer.
Used an old hot rodding trick to clean it up. Graphite lube keeps cast iron looking fresh and is just about the easiest thing to touch up in the engine bay.
The end result...
Used an old hot rodding trick to clean it up. Graphite lube keeps cast iron looking fresh and is just about the easiest thing to touch up in the engine bay.
The end result...
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It works really well. I read about it in Car Craft magazine close to 20 years ago. Doesn't chip or flake, gets in to the rough surface of cast iron.
Last edited by kombatrok; Dec 2, 2025 at 07:09 PM.
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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
While you are there hopefully you replaced the engine mount. It is easier without the manifold in the way. Makes a huge difference to the running smoothness in idle and gearing.
I just did mine when I replaced the manifolds. Big difference and it had not collapsed that much but it matters.
I just did mine when I replaced the manifolds. Big difference and it had not collapsed that much but it matters.
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While you are there hopefully you replaced the engine mount. It is easier without the manifold in the way. Makes a huge difference to the running smoothness in idle and gearing.
I just did mine when I replaced the manifolds. Big difference and it had not collapsed that much but it matters.
I just did mine when I replaced the manifolds. Big difference and it had not collapsed that much but it matters.
What is the easiest way to support these engines. Jack under the oil pan safe?
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2021 C63S AMG
That will usually work, as long as you use something to distribute the weight (I used a length of 2x4) AND you only put light pressure on the pan as you unbolt the motor mounts (e.g. jack only takes the weight once the bolts are free). It should be obvious, but I've seen some people put crazy pressure on the pan while it's still bolted with somewhat predictable results.
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
That will usually work, as long as you use something to distribute the weight (I used a length of 2x4) AND you only put light pressure on the pan as you unbolt the motor mounts (e.g. jack only takes the weight once the bolts are free). It should be obvious, but I've seen some people put crazy pressure on the pan while it's still bolted with somewhat predictable results.
Also remember you need a stubby 17 inch wrench (~4 inch) to remove the top bolt on the driver side. You can do a search for "M103 engine mount 17" wrench" on google.
Otherwise you have to remove the entire bracket and that is cumbersome too (done it both ways). $15 special wrench is well worth it.
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Minor update: Turbo manifold is in! (did I wait for the engine mounts to arrive? No... Although I still have plenty of access with the manifold on)
This is the factory plug for the head when the air pump is removed:
This is the factory plug for the head when the air pump is removed:
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Finally got this thing mounted, will still have to work out some issues with the plug wires rubbing on the housing, and piping for the intercooler will be tricky...
Oh and hood clearance is going to be... close
Oh and hood clearance is going to be... close
