idling problem
The some tester also comes with connectors. plugs etc that are needed. This is why a home made ferry rigged set up is a bad idea.
On the adjustments, please, please please do not touch/adjust anything BEFORE you post it here. I'll have to try and calibrate the pot . I need to bring up the revs to stop it stalling and then I'll post the readings on the duty cycle and EAH. and we can go from there,
Once the vacuum leaks and TPS is back to normal and in original condition with the proper adjustment. We can take the next step. My 2 recommendations are:
x to ge t it
-Do not replace anything
-Do not adjust anything
Before checking on this site. (unless you have a local mechanic who knows this system in detail, but clearly you do not)




If you are having to do something out of the spec to get it to run "better" something else is wrong with the system, not the AFM-pot.
This is the trap most inexperienced DIY'ers out there fall into. Same goes with the EHA adjustment and the AFM level adjustment.
One can not adjust these things with how the engine seems to run. If everything is adjusted to spec, these cars will run like the first day they left the lot at the dealer.
So adjust it so that the voltage on it is steady and I believe it is something like 0.7V (maybe it was 0.65 +/- 50mV but check that online).
After that we will have to measure various outputs to see what is off. If you have the inclination, you should order the dual fuel pressure gauge as well.
My 2 cents worth ....
You also need to listen to Dolucassi's advise. He's an engineer and he gives really good advise. I think where you got yourself into trouble is by using atter market parts and making adjustments without really determining what the actual problem is. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for all the post on the matter.




This is a great reference post. Hope other owners will see it in the future!
Happy motoring!
Last edited by dolucasi; Jan 21, 2026 at 02:47 PM.



