190E (W201) 1982-1993: 190E 2.3, 190E 2.6, 190E 2.3-16, 190E 2.5-16, 190 D 2.2, 190 D 2.5, 190 D 2.5 TURBO, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution I, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II

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Old May 9, 2026 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
i8thesandbox's Avatar
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1986 190e 2.3-16
Man

Hello.

I am experiencing the dreaded heater always blowing through the side vent problem. Clearly, I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.
After researching past threads, I read that I could manually close the heater valve to alleviate myself of this issue. I did exactly that by engaging the vacuum plunger so that the valve closed and then capped the vacuum to seal it in the closed position.
The heat still blows
Am I fundamentally misunderstanding how the system works, or is there a better way to accomplish this?
Thanks in advance. I appreciate the assistance.

Bart


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Old May 10, 2026 | 11:43 AM
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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
So you disconnected the vacuum line at the valve and capped it to avoid a vacuum leak to the intake?
Am I understanding what you did?

As far as I know you need to do the exact opposite. Vacuum is needed to close the valve.
Common sense suggests the exact opposite is more logical I know.
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Old May 10, 2026 | 12:52 PM
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i8thesandbox's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dolucasi
So you disconnected the vacuum line at the valve and capped it to avoid a vacuum leak to the intake?
Am I understanding what you did?

As far as I know you need to do the exact opposite. Vacuum is needed to close the valve.
Common sense suggests the exact opposite is more logical I know.
Yes, I realize that. So, what I did was manually lift the lever to create the vacuum, thereby closing the valve, and I capped it while in the closed position. My thought was that I capped it after the vacuum was created. Clearly I'm missing something.
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Old May 10, 2026 | 11:17 PM
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Could it be mechanically compromised within the valve? It's all plastic inside. pinch that rubber hose closed and see if it helps. You can also pinch the hose after the electric pump near the exhaust manifold side of things.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 12:10 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by dolucasi
Could it be mechanically compromised within the valve? It's all plastic inside. pinch that rubber hose closed and see if it helps. You can also pinch the hose after the electric pump near the exhaust manifold side of things.
It's a brand new heater valve, so I wouldn't think so. I did confirm that the valve was closed before reattaching. I will pinch the rubber hose and see what happens. I'm thinking it might be something on the electric pump side, so per your recommendation, I will pinch the hose there as well.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 11:44 AM
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with that valve closed, the only way heat can reach the heater core is thru the return hose. But it would be a long time to develop because there is no flow, and it could not be hot, just warmer than ambient air (maybe).
You can try pinching off the return hose back into the cylinder head. With both hoses pinched, I do not see how the HVAC can blow hot air.
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