ALARM Remote QuEsTiOn..
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
ALARM Remote QuEsTiOn..
sup. i wanna get an alarm that autostarts my car. now it would be ****in stupid if i had the remote on my key, plus another remote...my question is can i reprogram my stock remote to make the new alarm work off that. like i wanna use my panic button to start my car...that would be sicc
most likely impossible, but reply to this if ya got something ta share.
thanks. 4:20.
most likely impossible, but reply to this if ya got something ta share.
thanks. 4:20.
#2
Can't be done. The SmartKey system uses a rolling code algortihmic encription system that cannot be duplicated.
Here's some info from Mercedesshop:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforu...t=remote+start
Here's some info from Mercedesshop:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforu...t=remote+start
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#8
I spelt it wrong initially, as my dyslexia was kicking in as I was typing.
It is Algorithmic Encryption, as above.
The MB SmartKey uses a rolling code system that is pretty remarkable. The RF signal from the key to the EIS is a proximity device, and the IR signal is directed through the physical mating of the key and the EIS.
I don't know how many bits in the algorithim, but I have heard that it is 128. That's pretty robust for a key, but given the difficulty in breaking the code (haven't done it) I am leaning to believing it's a pretty reasonable number.
There is a means to stealing an MB using a computer interface with the AAM and some specific software, but this method is prety rare. The most likely way to steal a late-model MB is to flat-deck it away and either strip the car for parts (unlikely but possible) or replace the EIS/AAM system for resale elsewhere. Not going to happen with a C-Class, but if you drive an E55-K, I'd be VERY careful.
What the SmartKey does do is keep pretty much any non-professional thief from hotwiring your car. It also thwarts some pretty good pros, and means you're up against only the best of the very best.
We did try building a duplicate EIS/Key set-up hidden behind the dash. This allowed the car to be remote started, but of course compromised the anti-theft completely. Then, the car's computer figured out that when the "regular" key was in the ignition, and the hidden EIS/key combo under the dash, that there were TWO keys on the go, and activated a sequence to disable the car entirely. It wrote both keys out and we had to do some serious footwork at the dealer to get the car running again.
The worst were ML's. The switchblade key seemed to be able to be broken, but (and I have no idea how) the AAM computer figured out we had created a duplicate key and knew our "manufactured" signal was not "factory." Then, it wrote out ALL the keys and disabled the entire system. For some unknown reason, it took many starts for the AAM to deduce our scam. We were 400km's from home in the middle of nowhere when the ML realized this. It was January and it was -35C. The towing bill was ugly, and we were very cold.
With most systems, the key sends an RF code to the ignition module. Take Ford's. All we did was code-grab a bunch of keys and play them back until we figured out which key-code the vehicle was programmed with. Ta-da. GM had only a handful of codes, so that was a snap too. When installing a remote start on those simple systems, we just grabbed the key's code and programmed a signal-pulse when remote-starting. No problemo.
With BMW's system, they added rolling codes, but the computer wasn't smart like MB's. We could duplicate their EIS/Key set-up and fool the car into thinking the key was being used. Even though there was multiple keys in play, the car just knew that there was a proper code being used, so it started/ran fine. MB's system would figure out what we were up to.
Trick, eh?
It is Algorithmic Encryption, as above.
The MB SmartKey uses a rolling code system that is pretty remarkable. The RF signal from the key to the EIS is a proximity device, and the IR signal is directed through the physical mating of the key and the EIS.
I don't know how many bits in the algorithim, but I have heard that it is 128. That's pretty robust for a key, but given the difficulty in breaking the code (haven't done it) I am leaning to believing it's a pretty reasonable number.
There is a means to stealing an MB using a computer interface with the AAM and some specific software, but this method is prety rare. The most likely way to steal a late-model MB is to flat-deck it away and either strip the car for parts (unlikely but possible) or replace the EIS/AAM system for resale elsewhere. Not going to happen with a C-Class, but if you drive an E55-K, I'd be VERY careful.
What the SmartKey does do is keep pretty much any non-professional thief from hotwiring your car. It also thwarts some pretty good pros, and means you're up against only the best of the very best.
We did try building a duplicate EIS/Key set-up hidden behind the dash. This allowed the car to be remote started, but of course compromised the anti-theft completely. Then, the car's computer figured out that when the "regular" key was in the ignition, and the hidden EIS/key combo under the dash, that there were TWO keys on the go, and activated a sequence to disable the car entirely. It wrote both keys out and we had to do some serious footwork at the dealer to get the car running again.
The worst were ML's. The switchblade key seemed to be able to be broken, but (and I have no idea how) the AAM computer figured out we had created a duplicate key and knew our "manufactured" signal was not "factory." Then, it wrote out ALL the keys and disabled the entire system. For some unknown reason, it took many starts for the AAM to deduce our scam. We were 400km's from home in the middle of nowhere when the ML realized this. It was January and it was -35C. The towing bill was ugly, and we were very cold.
With most systems, the key sends an RF code to the ignition module. Take Ford's. All we did was code-grab a bunch of keys and play them back until we figured out which key-code the vehicle was programmed with. Ta-da. GM had only a handful of codes, so that was a snap too. When installing a remote start on those simple systems, we just grabbed the key's code and programmed a signal-pulse when remote-starting. No problemo.
With BMW's system, they added rolling codes, but the computer wasn't smart like MB's. We could duplicate their EIS/Key set-up and fool the car into thinking the key was being used. Even though there was multiple keys in play, the car just knew that there was a proper code being used, so it started/ran fine. MB's system would figure out what we were up to.
Trick, eh?
#12
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1985 MB 380SE
Try this:
http://www.superstore-electronics.co...libur_rs3a.cfm
If anything just do a search online for: Remot Start Add on
There are plenty of module's you can probably add to the car alarm so that you use the same remote. Like you press LOCK-UNLOCK- LOCK and it will start the car up. One of my friends actually has one on his truck which has a factory alarm. Make sure before you buy the module that it will work with your existing alarm.
http://www.superstore-electronics.co...libur_rs3a.cfm
If anything just do a search online for: Remot Start Add on
There are plenty of module's you can probably add to the car alarm so that you use the same remote. Like you press LOCK-UNLOCK- LOCK and it will start the car up. One of my friends actually has one on his truck which has a factory alarm. Make sure before you buy the module that it will work with your existing alarm.
#13
The module will send a pulse to start the car, but not actually start the car unless you bypass the factory installed anti-theft systems that are used outside of the "alarm" system. The module will not bypass the SmartKey system on late model MB's. What it does have is relays for you to do it, if you can.
Has anyone come up with a reliable SmartKey bypass? I would be very interested...
Has anyone come up with a reliable SmartKey bypass? I would be very interested...
Last edited by blackmercedes; 06-26-2003 at 09:19 PM.