RCorney17

I've got a 2001 ML 430 with 188k. We've put on 132k of those miles and serviced it regularly with the original Starmark 100k warranty and at the local dealer.

Recently I've been seeing the dreaded ETS,BAS,ESP,ABS dash lights that go on and off intermitently. I had it diagnosed at my local dealer as the ESP control module for a cool $1000 parts + labor. (Already replaced the stop light brake switch under recall campaign) It has gone into limp mode once (won't shift outta 1st).

Also, I have that gnarley grinding noise coming from the beneath my feet in the center when turning at slow speeds or slowing down.

Current codes are P0500 and P0720. Dealer says wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes but all check out ok.

It's been an awesome vehicle for our family happily towing our 18 foot ski boat and the wifey's daily commuter, albeit expensive to repair. My wife is done with it and ready to buy a GMC Acadia (eek!) but this car has been paid off for years now and $1000 - $2000 seems like the best route financially, but wife's not convinced this will put the antics of this car at bay.

Is the writing on the wall for this car and I just need to throw in the towel? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am not yet ready to give her up...

Maj. Dundee

They are selling you a song and a dance. Scan the copy, less your personal info, of the bill for reading the codes and post it here.

RCorney17

Will do tonight. Thanks Major. By the way, the codes I posted are what my dingbat OBII reader gave me, not a Star Diagnostics computer. Nevertheless, I'll scan and send the copy of the diagnosis.

azinn

Dump it asap! The writing is on the wall! My 2 cents.

RCorney17

Thanks. I fear your 2 cents are worthy of more. And I think you express my wife's sentiments in your avatar. I'm sure I'll be happy with any new car, I just like the one I've got because I think I know its quirks and upcoming "events". This forum has been helful to this extent. A new used car will be a new "mystery"

I'm curious; do you offer help to those on this forum since you have owned an ML in the past?

RCorney17

Here you go. I welcome any comments or suggestions based on reading this.

azinn

In my 9 1/2 years of ownership I am quite aware of the quirks and failures of the ML430. Don't have the time to debate about this topic. If you were my best friend, I would give you the same advise. The choice is yours buddy................. good luck!

Maj. Dundee

The short test they conducted says exactly what you said in your original post. C1000 is the killer. According to them all the wheel sensors have thrown codes but check out OK. That is logical since all of the sensors can't go out at the same time.

Before you make a decision, remove both top covers to the fuse box and check the condition of the wiring to the ESP/Traction Control Module (N47).

I guess you will have to make a decision.

The grinding you hear could be the Center Support Bearing on the drive shaft, but more likely the noise is coming from the Transfer Case itself.

RCorney17

Thanks. I'm up for trying the low cost stuff first, but sure appreciate your suggestions. I could not locate that wiring before this post, but had heard that it could go bad. Thanks!

Yeah, I've read elsewhere here that it could be the TC; ugh! I've had the transmission gasket replaced, but I have now seen 2xs a decent amount of oil drips (almost a pool) from where I would estimate the TC would be. It'll drip, I'll clean it up and then nothing for a long time then again. It's done this 2x now.

I'm prepared to let her go, but am in denial I guess. Considering the miles, the power, prowess, complex engineering and computer controlled safety mechanisms this car has it has not been a money pit for me, just $$ maintenance that is commensurate with the $$ of the car. "You pay to play" has been my motto with this car otherwise, we'd have gotten rid of it long ago.

RCorney17

Checked the wiring... all looks as to be expcted; no burnt or disconnected wiring as I had hoped (smoking gun, no pun intended). Oh well, I guess it's just decision time.

This website describes my symptom of the grinding noise. But, it doesn't sound like it's an easy DIY, but I bet that's my problem. http://www.keysolutions.com/M-Class.nsf?OpenDatabase

Thanks!

listerone

Yikes,I'm no expert on these things but all things considered I'd take it out to the back yard and shoot it.You've gotten your money's worth out of it already (IMO) and any additional (major) expenditures would just be good money after bad (again,IMO)

RCorney17

Yeah, pretty sure that will be its fate.

I'm currently looking into donating it or having junkmycar.com pay me for it.

Seeing it parked in my garage, driven on short trips only, is such a sad state for me

Maj. Dundee

I just can't see spending $28,000 for a Chev. SUV to save spending $1,000 to repair the ML.

Why not consider repairing the ML so you can sell it for $5,000?

RCorney17

Mostly because the missus wants a new car and does not want to put another dime into it. And, partly because if I spend the ~$1,500 to repair it, I'll want to keep it and not sell it, because there's nothing else wrong with it.

Otherwise, I COMPLETELY agree with the logic of spending a grand or so to fix it is CHEAP compared to a monthly payment for the next 4 years.

Maj. Dundee

As the Latin saying goes '*** grano salis'.

FraKctured

I agree--$1000 is 2 months car payment if you finance the new purchase. It's worth the risk, even if you drive it another year, you're way ahead right? But if they say you need a new transmission for $6,000, well, that's a different story.

I've got a 2000 ML320 (wife's and towing), 140K miles, so far so good, nothing major yet at all and I do have a retirement target mileage of around 200,000 miles. Once I hit that or get close to it, I think I will sell it even if it's running well. There's nothing scientific about 200K miles or anything, I just think that's a point at which the odds of her turning the key and being stuck are getting high enough to warrant getting a new car.

I have to say though, this ML has been an amazing vehicle--nothing major in repairs so far. I did have about $1000 worth of body work done on it last year because there were a few rust spots on it. People get in the truck to this day and they can't believe it is 12 years old because it rides great and looks fantastic.

mihir_d

170k miles - 2000 ML320 - Great tow vehicle for my 18 foot family runabout - great long distance family tourer - currently on a 1000 mile drive to Vegas - 12th year of ownership - no major issues - just minor repairs & regular services - drive train runs rock solid till date. Engine/tranny have same grunt as ex-showroom.

Plan to retire it at 15 years or 225k miles, whichever comes sooner. Extremely happy with the ML ownership experience. I already consider having gotten my money's worth at 12 years/170k miles...

Will be ready to upgrade to a Blutec GL...after that.

And yes, it too gets it's share of compliments for its looks, both inside & out.

Maj. Dundee

One last thing you should do before getting rid of the truck. Separate the 13 pin connector on the right side of the transmission and see if there is fluid there. The new part is less than $20 at the dealer.

RCorney17

Very interesting. Thanks Major, I will check it out. Thanks so much for the tips! Keep em coming as you think of them.

Is this a potential fix for the grinding symptom or the ETS module diagnosis? I am assuming the grinding...

Maj. Dundee

It's for the ETS. The grinding could be the center support bearing or the Trans. Case.

RCorney17

Yep, problem is the past 2 car purchases have been for me while she's had the one now for about 8 years.

RCorney17

Even better! Thanks!

speed2much

here is my experience with the esp/bas lights, and grinding. I have a 2001 ML320 with 200000 km.

I was having a grinding noise too. it sounded like a bearing at first. Bought a center support bearing, and put the truck on jacks. The bearing was fine. The noise got progressively worse, and started making metal on metal grinding noises. I was very worried. One day, it sounded like something fell off the car onto the road, and the grinding noise stopped. That was about 100,000 km ago. haha.

I was having the same problems with the ets/bas lights, and thought it was all sorts of things including wheel speed sensor, brake switch. finally, after a lot of testing, figured out it was a bad abs pump. I ordered a used abs pump/module off ebay and swapped it out. The ets/abs lights went out, and the truck has been working fine for the last 60,000 km.

Have only done oil and brake changes for the last 60,000 km.

Love the truck still. Can't bring myself to sell it and spend over $60,000 for a new ML.

good luck.

RCorney17

Welcome to MBWorld speed2much.
I share your desire to keep the car. I too think it's a great truck. I wish my symptoms resolved themselves as easily as yours, but alas, I believe the STAR diagnostics point to the ETS Module. I still have yet to check the 19 pin connector thing. (Been busy 'grinding' out my income taxes)

speed2much

I forgot to say, I have the benefit of the use of a free mechanic. The ets/abs lights took months to fix. We went through essentially all the "cheap" possibilities before finally checking the abs pump, which the codes did not indicate.

If I didn't have my mechanic, I'm not sure I would have kept the car.

IIRC, the abs pump was relatively easy to rule out(in). Unplug the wiring connector, and apply power directly to the power terminals, and if it doesn't run, the pump is bad.

Good luck.