Time to throw in the towel?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Time to throw in the towel?
I've got a 2001 ML 430 with 188k. We've put on 132k of those miles and serviced it regularly with the original Starmark 100k warranty and at the local dealer.
Recently I've been seeing the dreaded ETS,BAS,ESP,ABS dash lights that go on and off intermitently. I had it diagnosed at my local dealer as the ESP control module for a cool $1000 parts + labor. (Already replaced the stop light brake switch under recall campaign) It has gone into limp mode once (won't shift outta 1st).
Also, I have that gnarley grinding noise coming from the beneath my feet in the center when turning at slow speeds or slowing down.
Current codes are P0500 and P0720. Dealer says wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes but all check out ok.
It's been an awesome vehicle for our family happily towing our 18 foot ski boat and the wifey's daily commuter, albeit expensive to repair. My wife is done with it and ready to buy a GMC Acadia (eek!) but this car has been paid off for years now and $1000 - $2000 seems like the best route financially, but wife's not convinced this will put the antics of this car at bay.
Is the writing on the wall for this car and I just need to throw in the towel? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am not yet ready to give her up...
Recently I've been seeing the dreaded ETS,BAS,ESP,ABS dash lights that go on and off intermitently. I had it diagnosed at my local dealer as the ESP control module for a cool $1000 parts + labor. (Already replaced the stop light brake switch under recall campaign) It has gone into limp mode once (won't shift outta 1st).
Also, I have that gnarley grinding noise coming from the beneath my feet in the center when turning at slow speeds or slowing down.
Current codes are P0500 and P0720. Dealer says wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes but all check out ok.
It's been an awesome vehicle for our family happily towing our 18 foot ski boat and the wifey's daily commuter, albeit expensive to repair. My wife is done with it and ready to buy a GMC Acadia (eek!) but this car has been paid off for years now and $1000 - $2000 seems like the best route financially, but wife's not convinced this will put the antics of this car at bay.
Is the writing on the wall for this car and I just need to throw in the towel? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am not yet ready to give her up...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Will do tonight. Thanks Major. By the way, the codes I posted are what my dingbat OBII reader gave me, not a Star Diagnostics computer. Nevertheless, I'll scan and send the copy of the diagnosis.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 1
From: In A Van Down By The River
2014 RX 350 F Sport, 2007 Scion tC, 2000 ML 430 Money Pit Finally Gone! Oh Happy Day!
I've got a 2001 ML 430 with 188k. We've put on 132k of those miles and serviced it regularly with the original Starmark 100k warranty and at the local dealer.
Recently I've been seeing the dreaded ETS,BAS,ESP,ABS dash lights that go on and off intermitently. I had it diagnosed at my local dealer as the ESP control module for a cool $1000 parts + labor. (Already replaced the stop light brake switch under recall campaign) It has gone into limp mode once (won't shift outta 1st).
Also, I have that gnarley grinding noise coming from the beneath my feet in the center when turning at slow speeds or slowing down.
Current codes are P0500 and P0720. Dealer says wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes but all check out ok.
It's been an awesome vehicle for our family happily towing our 18 foot ski boat and the wifey's daily commuter, albeit expensive to repair. My wife is done with it and ready to buy a GMC Acadia (eek!) but this car has been paid off for years now and $1000 - $2000 seems like the best route financially, but wife's not convinced this will put the antics of this car at bay.
Is the writing on the wall for this car and I just need to throw in the towel? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am not yet ready to give her up...
Recently I've been seeing the dreaded ETS,BAS,ESP,ABS dash lights that go on and off intermitently. I had it diagnosed at my local dealer as the ESP control module for a cool $1000 parts + labor. (Already replaced the stop light brake switch under recall campaign) It has gone into limp mode once (won't shift outta 1st).
Also, I have that gnarley grinding noise coming from the beneath my feet in the center when turning at slow speeds or slowing down.
Current codes are P0500 and P0720. Dealer says wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes but all check out ok.
It's been an awesome vehicle for our family happily towing our 18 foot ski boat and the wifey's daily commuter, albeit expensive to repair. My wife is done with it and ready to buy a GMC Acadia (eek!) but this car has been paid off for years now and $1000 - $2000 seems like the best route financially, but wife's not convinced this will put the antics of this car at bay.
Is the writing on the wall for this car and I just need to throw in the towel? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am not yet ready to give her up...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Thanks. I fear your 2 cents are worthy of more. And I think you express my wife's sentiments in your avatar. I'm sure I'll be happy with any new car, I just like the one I've got because I think I know its quirks and upcoming "events". This forum has been helful to this extent. A new used car will be a new "mystery"
I'm curious; do you offer help to those on this forum since you have owned an ML in the past?
I'm curious; do you offer help to those on this forum since you have owned an ML in the past?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 1
From: In A Van Down By The River
2014 RX 350 F Sport, 2007 Scion tC, 2000 ML 430 Money Pit Finally Gone! Oh Happy Day!
Thanks. I fear your 2 cents are worthy of more. And I think you express my wife's sentiments in your avatar. I'm sure I'll be happy with any new car, I just like the one I've got because I think I know its quirks and upcoming "events". This forum has been helful to this extent. A new used car will be a new "mystery"
I'm curious; do you offer help to those on this forum since you have owned an ML in the past?
I'm curious; do you offer help to those on this forum since you have owned an ML in the past?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Before you make a decision, remove both top covers to the fuse box and check the condition of the wiring to the ESP/Traction Control Module (N47).
I guess you will have to make a decision.
The grinding you hear could be the Center Support Bearing on the drive shaft, but more likely the noise is coming from the Transfer Case itself.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
The short test they conducted says exactly what you said in your original post. C1000 is the killer. According to them all the wheel sensors have thrown codes but check out OK. That is logical since all of the sensors can't go out at the same time.
Before you make a decision, remove both top covers to the fuse box and check the condition of the wiring to the ESP/Traction Control Module (N47).
I guess you will have to make a decision.
The grinding you hear could be the Center Support Bearing on the drive shaft, but more likely the noise is coming from the Transfer Case itself.
Before you make a decision, remove both top covers to the fuse box and check the condition of the wiring to the ESP/Traction Control Module (N47).
I guess you will have to make a decision.
The grinding you hear could be the Center Support Bearing on the drive shaft, but more likely the noise is coming from the Transfer Case itself.
Yeah, I've read elsewhere here that it could be the TC; ugh! I've had the transmission gasket replaced, but I have now seen 2xs a decent amount of oil drips (almost a pool) from where I would estimate the TC would be. It'll drip, I'll clean it up and then nothing for a long time then again. It's done this 2x now.
I'm prepared to let her go, but am in denial I guess. Considering the miles, the power, prowess, complex engineering and computer controlled safety mechanisms this car has it has not been a money pit for me, just $$ maintenance that is commensurate with the $$ of the car. "You pay to play" has been my motto with this car otherwise, we'd have gotten rid of it long ago.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Checked the wiring... all looks as to be expcted; no burnt or disconnected wiring as I had hoped (smoking gun, no pun intended). Oh well, I guess it's just decision time.
This website describes my symptom of the grinding noise. But, it doesn't sound like it's an easy DIY, but I bet that's my problem. http://www.keysolutions.com/M-Class.nsf?OpenDatabase
Thanks!
This website describes my symptom of the grinding noise. But, it doesn't sound like it's an easy DIY, but I bet that's my problem. http://www.keysolutions.com/M-Class.nsf?OpenDatabase
Thanks!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,121
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From: Connecticut
2018 BMW 540d
Yikes,I'm no expert on these things but all things considered I'd take it out to the back yard and shoot it.You've gotten your money's worth out of it already (IMO) and any additional (major) expenditures would just be good money after bad (again,IMO)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
I'm currently looking into donating it or having junkmycar.com pay me for it.
Seeing it parked in my garage, driven on short trips only, is such a sad state for me
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
I just can't see spending $28,000 for a Chev. SUV to save spending $1,000 to repair the ML.
Why not consider repairing the ML so you can sell it for $5,000?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Otherwise, I COMPLETELY agree with the logic of spending a grand or so to fix it is CHEAP compared to a monthly payment for the next 4 years.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Michigan
W203-4M W163
I agree--$1000 is 2 months car payment if you finance the new purchase. It's worth the risk, even if you drive it another year, you're way ahead right? But if they say you need a new transmission for $6,000, well, that's a different story.
I've got a 2000 ML320 (wife's and towing), 140K miles, so far so good, nothing major yet at all and I do have a retirement target mileage of around 200,000 miles. Once I hit that or get close to it, I think I will sell it even if it's running well. There's nothing scientific about 200K miles or anything, I just think that's a point at which the odds of her turning the key and being stuck are getting high enough to warrant getting a new car.
I have to say though, this ML has been an amazing vehicle--nothing major in repairs so far. I did have about $1000 worth of body work done on it last year because there were a few rust spots on it. People get in the truck to this day and they can't believe it is 12 years old because it rides great and looks fantastic.
I've got a 2000 ML320 (wife's and towing), 140K miles, so far so good, nothing major yet at all and I do have a retirement target mileage of around 200,000 miles. Once I hit that or get close to it, I think I will sell it even if it's running well. There's nothing scientific about 200K miles or anything, I just think that's a point at which the odds of her turning the key and being stuck are getting high enough to warrant getting a new car.
I have to say though, this ML has been an amazing vehicle--nothing major in repairs so far. I did have about $1000 worth of body work done on it last year because there were a few rust spots on it. People get in the truck to this day and they can't believe it is 12 years old because it rides great and looks fantastic.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 690
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From: Bay area - California
2000 ML320 2006 SLK 350
Same here!
I agree--$1000 is 2 months car payment if you finance the new purchase. It's worth the risk, even if you drive it another year, you're way ahead right? But if they say you need a new transmission for $6,000, well, that's a different story.
I've got a 2000 ML320 (wife's and towing), 140K miles, so far so good, nothing major yet at all and I do have a retirement target mileage of around 200,000 miles. Once I hit that or get close to it, I think I will sell it even if it's running well. There's nothing scientific about 200K miles or anything, I just think that's a point at which the odds of her turning the key and being stuck are getting high enough to warrant getting a new car.
I have to say though, this ML has been an amazing vehicle--nothing major in repairs so far. I did have about $1000 worth of body work done on it last year because there were a few rust spots on it. People get in the truck to this day and they can't believe it is 12 years old because it rides great and looks fantastic.
I've got a 2000 ML320 (wife's and towing), 140K miles, so far so good, nothing major yet at all and I do have a retirement target mileage of around 200,000 miles. Once I hit that or get close to it, I think I will sell it even if it's running well. There's nothing scientific about 200K miles or anything, I just think that's a point at which the odds of her turning the key and being stuck are getting high enough to warrant getting a new car.
I have to say though, this ML has been an amazing vehicle--nothing major in repairs so far. I did have about $1000 worth of body work done on it last year because there were a few rust spots on it. People get in the truck to this day and they can't believe it is 12 years old because it rides great and looks fantastic.
Plan to retire it at 15 years or 225k miles, whichever comes sooner. Extremely happy with the ML ownership experience. I already consider having gotten my money's worth at 12 years/170k miles...
Will be ready to upgrade to a Blutec GL...after that.
And yes, it too gets it's share of compliments for its looks, both inside & out.
Last edited by mihir_d; Feb 18, 2012 at 08:32 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
One last thing you should do before getting rid of the truck. Separate the 13 pin connector on the right side of the transmission and see if there is fluid there. The new part is less than $20 at the dealer.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
Is this a potential fix for the grinding symptom or the ETS module diagnosis? I am assuming the grinding...
Thread Starter
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From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
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here is my experience with the esp/bas lights, and grinding. I have a 2001 ML320 with 200000 km.
I was having a grinding noise too. it sounded like a bearing at first. Bought a center support bearing, and put the truck on jacks. The bearing was fine. The noise got progressively worse, and started making metal on metal grinding noises. I was very worried. One day, it sounded like something fell off the car onto the road, and the grinding noise stopped. That was about 100,000 km ago. haha.
I was having the same problems with the ets/bas lights, and thought it was all sorts of things including wheel speed sensor, brake switch. finally, after a lot of testing, figured out it was a bad abs pump. I ordered a used abs pump/module off ebay and swapped it out. The ets/abs lights went out, and the truck has been working fine for the last 60,000 km.
Have only done oil and brake changes for the last 60,000 km.
Love the truck still. Can't bring myself to sell it and spend over $60,000 for a new ML.
good luck.
I was having a grinding noise too. it sounded like a bearing at first. Bought a center support bearing, and put the truck on jacks. The bearing was fine. The noise got progressively worse, and started making metal on metal grinding noises. I was very worried. One day, it sounded like something fell off the car onto the road, and the grinding noise stopped. That was about 100,000 km ago. haha.
I was having the same problems with the ets/bas lights, and thought it was all sorts of things including wheel speed sensor, brake switch. finally, after a lot of testing, figured out it was a bad abs pump. I ordered a used abs pump/module off ebay and swapped it out. The ets/abs lights went out, and the truck has been working fine for the last 60,000 km.
Have only done oil and brake changes for the last 60,000 km.
Love the truck still. Can't bring myself to sell it and spend over $60,000 for a new ML.
good luck.
Last edited by speed2much; Feb 23, 2012 at 02:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Salinas, Ca
2007 GL450, 2003 BMW 325i
here is my experience with the esp/bas lights, and grinding. I have a 2001 ML320 with 200000 km.
I was having a grinding noise too. it sounded like a bearing at first. Bought a center support bearing, and put the truck on jacks. The bearing was fine. The noise got progressively worse, and started making metal on metal grinding noises. I was very worried. One day, it sounded like something fell off the car onto the road, and the grinding noise stopped. That was about 100,000 km ago. haha.
I was having the same problems with the ets/bas lights, and thought it was all sorts of things including wheel speed sensor, brake switch. finally, after a lot of testing, figured out it was a bad abs pump. I ordered a used abs pump/module off ebay and swapped it out. The ets/abs lights went out, and the truck has been working fine for the last 60,000 km.
Have only done oil and brake changes for the last 60,000 km.
Love the truck still. Can't bring myself to sell it and spend over $60,000 for a new ML.
good luck.
I was having a grinding noise too. it sounded like a bearing at first. Bought a center support bearing, and put the truck on jacks. The bearing was fine. The noise got progressively worse, and started making metal on metal grinding noises. I was very worried. One day, it sounded like something fell off the car onto the road, and the grinding noise stopped. That was about 100,000 km ago. haha.
I was having the same problems with the ets/bas lights, and thought it was all sorts of things including wheel speed sensor, brake switch. finally, after a lot of testing, figured out it was a bad abs pump. I ordered a used abs pump/module off ebay and swapped it out. The ets/abs lights went out, and the truck has been working fine for the last 60,000 km.
Have only done oil and brake changes for the last 60,000 km.
Love the truck still. Can't bring myself to sell it and spend over $60,000 for a new ML.
good luck.
I share your desire to keep the car. I too think it's a great truck. I wish my symptoms resolved themselves as easily as yours, but alas, I believe the STAR diagnostics point to the ETS Module. I still have yet to check the 19 pin connector thing. (Been busy 'grinding' out my income taxes)
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2002
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I forgot to say, I have the benefit of the use of a free mechanic. The ets/abs lights took months to fix. We went through essentially all the "cheap" possibilities before finally checking the abs pump, which the codes did not indicate.
If I didn't have my mechanic, I'm not sure I would have kept the car.
IIRC, the abs pump was relatively easy to rule out(in). Unplug the wiring connector, and apply power directly to the power terminals, and if it doesn't run, the pump is bad.
Good luck.
If I didn't have my mechanic, I'm not sure I would have kept the car.
IIRC, the abs pump was relatively easy to rule out(in). Unplug the wiring connector, and apply power directly to the power terminals, and if it doesn't run, the pump is bad.
Good luck.
