Ruh Roh Raggy - P0120
P/P heads
Smaller pulley on Blower (p/p heads dropped boost to 4 psi, smaller pulley raised up to 9-10psi.
Eaton blower.
Klee Headers / 300 cell secondary cats / resonator / stock single amg exhaust.
PTE Cams / PTE ti retainers.
Klee Tune
Klee fuel system mods (come with kit).
180 therm (PTE)
LSD
I've got a set of MBH headers Longtubes sitting in the den... waiting for my next round of mods.... can't decide if I want true duals ex or just longtubes and current exhaust.
I don't want to increase airflow too much more than current setup..... car get's lean in winter... LTFT's up to 1.16..... in summer drops down to 1.075..... hoping longtubes don't uncork this so much so that it affects my current tune.
MBH Longtubes VS klee-midlength headers.... my experience with centrifugal blown cars..... long tubes provide more TQ.... but we'll see.
Last edited by betrezra; Jun 21, 2012 at 06:13 PM.
P/P heads
Smaller pulley on Blower (p/p heads dropped boost to 4 psi, smaller pulley raised up to 9-10psi.
Eaton blower.
Klee Headers / 300 cell secondary cats / resonator / stock single amg exhaust.
PTE Cams / PTE ti retainers.
Klee Tune
Klee fuel system mods (come with kit).
180 therm (PTE)
LSD
I've got a set of MBH headers Longtubes sitting in the den... waiting for my next round of mods.... can't decide if I want true duals ex or just longtubes and current exhaust.
I don't want to increase airflow too much more than current setup..... car get's lean in winter... LTFT's up to 1.16..... in summer drops down to 1.075..... hoping longtubes don't uncork this so much so that it affects my current tune.
MBH Longtubes VS klee-midlength headers.... my experience with centrifugal blown cars..... long tubes provide more TQ.... but we'll see.


P/P heads
Smaller pulley on Blower (p/p heads dropped boost to 4 psi, smaller pulley raised up to 9-10psi.
Eaton blower.
Klee Headers / 300 cell secondary cats / resonator / stock single amg exhaust.
PTE Cams / PTE ti retainers.
Klee Tune
Klee fuel system mods (come with kit).
180 therm (PTE)
LSD
I've got a set of MBH headers Longtubes sitting in the den... waiting for my next round of mods.... can't decide if I want true duals ex or just longtubes and current exhaust.
I don't want to increase airflow too much more than current setup..... car get's lean in winter... LTFT's up to 1.16..... in summer drops down to 1.075..... hoping longtubes don't uncork this so much so that it affects my current tune.
MBH Longtubes VS klee-midlength headers.... my experience with centrifugal blown cars..... long tubes provide more TQ.... but we'll see.
Is your fuel upgrade the older inverter on the factory fuel pump setup or does it have the newer secondary fuel pump under the hood?
The Quaife is probably my favorite mod. It make the car so much more controllable. I was scared to try and slide it around before because I never knew what it would do. Sometimes it could cut the throttle completely, sometimes it would shift to second, sometimes it would do both, and sometimes it would do nothing!
The MBH headers are nice for sure and I'd definately really love to have them, but I just don't know if they're worth 3x the price. If they were $2k, I'd probably do it.
He was also trying to sell me these $8/each little wire connectors..... I was like.... "I'll just solder/shrink wrap them"..... and parts guy smiles and says .... yep that's what I'd doo

I'm running 10.5-10.8AFR in summer under full load...... in winter it's 10.8-11.2.... so still OK.
Fuel system is the old style setup with a few parts:
1. Fuel pressure regulator behind fuel tank. Ref boost. I data-logged it: runs stock fuel pressure up to -4psi... then starts to rise to max 100+psi up top...... this tricks the stock injectors into being bigger than stock.
2. DC-DC invertor... for fuel pump.... above 3-4psi of boost inc fuel pump voltage.... like a kenne belle boost-a-pump from the old days..... this is micro-adjustable... I have not touched it...... PTE has tweaked his.
3. MAS signal voltage rheostat...... adj 300K Ohm on up to 1000K Ohm max..... this allows your stock mass air meter housing and stock mass air meter element to not MAX OUT with the blower and all that excess air and still keep stock MAS calibration volts/Mass air...... technically my stock mass air meter is "pegging" in winter... above 5 volts..... but no amount of res adj would take me below 5 volts and still keep AFR happy under load.... so I put it back to 500kohm..... and just don't drag race on a track in winter

MBH headers are a work of art...... I just pop open the box every once in a while to oooogle..... and stare.... but I'm weird like that

Another tip on keeping these klee cars happy... I checked my plugs after first 5K miles with blower and they were knarly bad..... crusty..... I suspect due to all the dyno-tuning under various states of tune..... so I put in new plugs and car woke up a little. my klee tag says change plugs every service..... so I've got another set for my next oil change service I do at home. FYI.
GRAMM - LOL...... bigger car repair bills too
Last edited by betrezra; Jun 21, 2012 at 08:44 PM.

I've not seen anyone on here yet saying they've got the new design fuel setup like I have that does away with the dc-dc interver and puts the fuel pressure regulator under the hood so I was just curious. I set the MAF clamp at the 500kohm and haven't touched it either.
Yeah, I've got a torque converter sitting here for the Trailblazer waiting on me to buy headers for it also before it goes it (exhaust is a ***** to get in and out on V8 Trailblazers, so I don't want to do it twice!).
Yeah, I noticed that on the tag about the plugs. I wonder what they consider the service interval, because I've been changing my oil every 2500 miles in this car (at least for now, I may go a little longer later but it won't be much longer). Yes I know, wasting oil, money, blah blah. It makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside.
Last edited by 91RS; Jun 21, 2012 at 09:04 PM.
I was getting excited when I read Tq converter.... was thinking for the AMG :!!!! they do make em you know.......
Thanks for this good post... helped me mucho.
Jeff
The Best of Mercedes & AMG





I ordered the above part for my clk55 TB 74.5mm..... it is for a wire with connectors on each end. You simply cut the wire in half and you have 2 of the 6 connectors.
You need to order 3 of these from your dealer.... mine were $6.8/each.
I believe the TB is the same on the C32 and C55 and Clk55.




I ordered the above part for my clk55 TB 74.5mm..... it is for a wire with connectors on each end. You simply cut the wire in half and you have 2 of the 6 connectors.
You need to order 3 of these from your dealer.... mine were $6.8/each.
I believe the TB is the same on the C32 and C55 and Clk55.
There are 6 little metal connectors which you'll have to solder into the wiring harness and then push into the stock connector shroud.
My parts guy @ MBUSA was able to order from the p/n above. You will need 3.... as they come with a conector on each end... you cut in half and get 2 on each wire.
Don't let them sell you the MB solderless connectors @10/ea...... just solder/heat shrink should be fine.








Since I acquired the 3 wire connectors..... the problem has ceased..... so I'm holding off until I get no-go from my go-pedal again
I'll check the dealer tomorrow for this part number with the female connectors.
Thanks for the info!
I just ordered another TB to replace.
New from mbparts on line $450.
Used from 150-200.
I've already tried the following with about 4 weeks of success but then prob came up again:
1. pulled plug on TB,
2. cleaned connection with CRC,
3. ran TB function through star..... showed TB function OK.
Car ran fine for several weeks after this..... but then last night same deal... no throttle response.
Since I'm putting in a new TB, I'll take the opp to port the TB flapper bar down.
GL.
I forgot exactly where the connector is on our engines. Would you have a picture or a shot of the connector on your setup? I know there's a pic of it in the Kleemann installation manual but I can't remember exactly where it is on the engine.
Thanks in advance.
Sorry everyone for the bombardment of messages. I am just so frustrated right now to get these gremlins resolved so I can enjoy the car!




I forgot exactly where the connector is on our engines. Would you have a picture or a shot of the connector on your setup? I know there's a pic of it in the Kleemann installation manual but I can't remember exactly where it is on the engine.
Thanks in advance.







