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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 06:26 AM
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Question Subwoofers

how do aftermarket subs do in Mercedes sedans? I have a C-class. Does the trunk rattle?
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Old Jan 1, 2002 | 01:12 PM
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Re: Subwoofers

Originally posted by b4chow
how do aftermarket subs do in Mercedes sedans? I have a C-class. Does the trunk rattle?
I have an E55 with two ten inch JL Audio subs and the trunk does not rattle but the license plate frame did. I put some double stick tape on the frame and the rattling stopped.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 01:08 AM
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How funny that you mention the license plate rattles and nothing else. Same with my car. I think MB are well insulated, and thats why they sound good with subs. Do you ever have your seat down? I do...makes it louder. On the new C Class I have 1 12" JL Audio in a sealed box. I tried 2 10" and I like this better. I have a Rockford Fosgate Power 250 amp to run the 1 12" with a digital 1 farad Fosgate Capacitor and a MTX crossover. In my C36 I used to run 2 10" Orion XTR2 DVC with a Orion HCCA 225 Comp amp in a sealed box, yellow top Optima Battery, 1 farad Fosgate Capacitor, MTX Crossover. That was very loud.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 11:25 PM
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subwoofer in any MB

MB spends millions in engineering their cars to keep sound outside the interior of the car. Putting a subwoofer in the trunk that fires toward the rear of the car will only entertain boneheads on the sidewalk and flex the trunk lid! Forget generic, sealed boxes and find someone who can build a bandpass box to the Thiel Small Parameters that match whatever woofer you want to use. These specs are packed in the box with each woofer. The quality of the bass will depend mostly on the box. Have the builder configure a square port (doesn't whistle like round ones)that is partially external enough to protrude above your rear package shelf. Cutting the opening requres patience as the steel is thick and covered with damping material. Now the bass from the subwoofer will play ONLY into the interior of your car and sound much better. Have the builder make the box from MDF and have it span across the back of the trunk between the arms. This will allow him to get the internal box volume he needs by adjusting the depth measurement of the enclosure. If the box is carpeted the same as the trunk carpet, it will be invisible when the trunk is opened. P.
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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 03:59 AM
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My preference would be for a ported isobaric loaded design,with a textured port and tube(to minimise "chuffing" at high spl when reproducing true flat response at very low htz,this way you can fool the front drive unit into thinking it is operating with a much larger enclosure,the units are wired in phase(both suck and blow at the same time!!!)....but....as ever there are more than one way to skin a cat!!!
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Old Mar 27, 2002 | 06:57 PM
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i have a kicker 15 inch sub in my clk and its funny, only two things rattle. the rear deck lid of the first aid kit and the license plate. ive already slabbed on a layer of dynamat between the frame and plate and a layer behind the plate as well. it helped a bit, but the damn thing rattles like hell still

B
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Old Mar 28, 2002 | 01:28 PM
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I have a pretty major system in my CLK which includes three JL 12W3's running off three seperate JL 500/1 amps and when it was first installed, the truck lid rattled like it was going to fall off. Then I had the system redone and the 3-12's were put into a smaller fiberglass box, and the entire car was dampened with dynamat and some spray on type of deadener. That helped a lot. Then last month, I brought the car in for some new additions, and I had the trunk completely insulated. They filled the lid with deadener, then fiberglassed the inside liner and wrapped everything in matching leather. It is so quiet now.... You would not believe it. I have over 3,000 watts and the car barely rattles at all.
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Old Apr 2, 2002 | 10:58 PM
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asdf
i have a 2000 c class with 2 10's runnin off a rockford amp. Goddamn, from the outside it sounds like sh*t. I'm only runnin off 250 watts, but I hear rattling and what seems to sound like something alive trying to get out of the trunk. I was thinking about dynomating the entire car but is it really worth it? Does it help silence road noise also? How much does it cost?
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Old Apr 3, 2002 | 10:11 AM
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To be completely honest.... The Dynamat did help quite a bit. But they used a ton of it. I think that what did the most, was after they layed down the Dynamat, they also sprayed in another deadener where they couldn't get the Dynamat, and I had them install quite a bit of 1/2" Felt in layers around the trunk, the side panels, the trunk lid and the floor. I had work done to my system three times, and they did more deadening each time. The total cost for the deadening alone was close to $ 3,000. The entire car was stripped though, so that's where the labor intensive costs came into play.

It's easy to tell the difference from my car to any other though. If you knock on the outside of the car, it is very dead. No ping.... more of a thud. When you close the door, it's so quiet inside. Even at full volume... the car barely rattles at all.

If I were to do it all over again... I would never do it. I turned this into a science project... and although it sounds perfect, it wasn't worth it for me.
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