SNAFU 2004 E55 Command Radio
03-16-2012, 10:24 PM
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2016 E63 s63 (sold),1986 Buick Grand National (sold)2014 ML63
SNAFU 2004 E55 Command Radio
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Okay boys, anyone know a bit about these things? Mine started acting weird today for no reason. I apologize in advance if this post is long, but I want to cover the bases to get accurate answers. If you think you can help, please read on.
I have a 2004 E55 with the Command/Harman-Kardon sound system. Until today, it has been impressive for stock and also performed flawlessly.
Today I get in the car and it seems to be cutting in and out... I was driving to work and thought, "hmm radio station trouble?" as they were interviewing a newly signed athlete via telephone. I changed the station, same result. I also tried a CD in the 6 disc changer, same thing; almost as if the disc was skipping. Power cycled the head unit, same results.
During lunch break, I went outside and tried it while the car was parked, figuring the lack of vehicle motion would all but eliminate a bad cable/wiring/loose connection/vibration issue. Same results.
After work, I tried using the AUX input from the glove box to connect to my phone and use Pandora - always worked just fine before - now a high pitched squeal similar to microphone feedback.
Did some research and found out I need a service update disc (pursuant to DTB P-B-82.60/382c) part # W211 589 16 22 00....
Stopped at the dealer, who was quite cool about it, said that the part # referenced is discontinued, and even if it wasn't they can't sell me the disc. They offered to take it in via appointment and pay ~$100-200 to flash it with this update and also update the AGW (audio gateway software) which sounded nice, but if I can score a disc and do it myself and save a couple hundred bucks, why not??
OK, here's the questions:
1) should I just pay them and let them do this? My fear is that it doesn't solve the problem and we just start replacing components one after the other until it works again...(costly!)
2) since this part # is no longer available, it would seem not to be copyright infringement to have someone send me an .iso file of the disc. MBUSA would have no liquid damages for me fixing this myself. Since they don't offer it, it is archival and the only one that loses is the dealer for labor to use theirs.
3) does anyone have an original disc I can buy? Dealer net was $12....
Moving on, I have removed fuse #6 from the trunk panel as wells as the CD changer one from the dash to "reset" it - seems to have done zero, the head unit even went back to the station it was on before I pulled power.
I have checked the voltage of the Aux batter underhood, and it's 12.48 volts, seems healthy, and the dealer insists that if it was suspect a LOT of electronics would be acting silly.
What do you guys think? Fix it myself, or? I have built computers, drag cars, and engineered audio in a recording studio. Nothing about this should be beyond my scope of ability, short of having STAR diagnostics.
Thoughts??
Thanks in advance,
Chris
Okay boys, anyone know a bit about these things? Mine started acting weird today for no reason. I apologize in advance if this post is long, but I want to cover the bases to get accurate answers. If you think you can help, please read on.
I have a 2004 E55 with the Command/Harman-Kardon sound system. Until today, it has been impressive for stock and also performed flawlessly.
Today I get in the car and it seems to be cutting in and out... I was driving to work and thought, "hmm radio station trouble?" as they were interviewing a newly signed athlete via telephone. I changed the station, same result. I also tried a CD in the 6 disc changer, same thing; almost as if the disc was skipping. Power cycled the head unit, same results.
During lunch break, I went outside and tried it while the car was parked, figuring the lack of vehicle motion would all but eliminate a bad cable/wiring/loose connection/vibration issue. Same results.
After work, I tried using the AUX input from the glove box to connect to my phone and use Pandora - always worked just fine before - now a high pitched squeal similar to microphone feedback.
Did some research and found out I need a service update disc (pursuant to DTB P-B-82.60/382c) part # W211 589 16 22 00....
Stopped at the dealer, who was quite cool about it, said that the part # referenced is discontinued, and even if it wasn't they can't sell me the disc. They offered to take it in via appointment and pay ~$100-200 to flash it with this update and also update the AGW (audio gateway software) which sounded nice, but if I can score a disc and do it myself and save a couple hundred bucks, why not??
OK, here's the questions:
1) should I just pay them and let them do this? My fear is that it doesn't solve the problem and we just start replacing components one after the other until it works again...(costly!)
2) since this part # is no longer available, it would seem not to be copyright infringement to have someone send me an .iso file of the disc. MBUSA would have no liquid damages for me fixing this myself. Since they don't offer it, it is archival and the only one that loses is the dealer for labor to use theirs.
3) does anyone have an original disc I can buy? Dealer net was $12....
Moving on, I have removed fuse #6 from the trunk panel as wells as the CD changer one from the dash to "reset" it - seems to have done zero, the head unit even went back to the station it was on before I pulled power.
I have checked the voltage of the Aux batter underhood, and it's 12.48 volts, seems healthy, and the dealer insists that if it was suspect a LOT of electronics would be acting silly.
What do you guys think? Fix it myself, or? I have built computers, drag cars, and engineered audio in a recording studio. Nothing about this should be beyond my scope of ability, short of having STAR diagnostics.
Thoughts??
Thanks in advance,
Chris
03-18-2012, 04:26 PM
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2006 E350
Hi Chris. Have you tried pulling the terminals off the battery in the trunk? Leave them off for about 30 to 60 seconds, reconnect, then see if it returns to normal. I have had a couple of intermittent issues with my system after I installed an aftermarket amp and a sub in the trunk.
For some reason I can't comprehend, the AGW's in our cars are very sensitive. They have a bunch of surface-mount components that are very sensitive to seemingly small changes. My AGW stopped sending signal to the right side speakers after I allowed the speaker wires to touch while trying to attach them to my sub. I bought a used AGW from a seller on ebay, and made sure to make the connections only when the car was powered down.
Even now, sometimes I have to start the car, shut it off, take out the key, re-insert the key, restart the key, wait for the "Mute" signal goes off on the head unit, then sound is there. One day a couple weeks ago, the "mute" emblem stayed on the head unit and sound wouldn't restore no matter what I did, until I pulled the battery cables off. Even then, it didn't return immediately, but it did return a short while after. Try that first. If it doesn't work, you have a choice; find another AGW for around $250 (average) online and try and tackle the job yourself, or turn it over to the dealer and let them handle it. The AGW is not easy to access, but you sound like a man with the skill sets to handle the job if you wanted to.
For some reason I can't comprehend, the AGW's in our cars are very sensitive. They have a bunch of surface-mount components that are very sensitive to seemingly small changes. My AGW stopped sending signal to the right side speakers after I allowed the speaker wires to touch while trying to attach them to my sub. I bought a used AGW from a seller on ebay, and made sure to make the connections only when the car was powered down.
Even now, sometimes I have to start the car, shut it off, take out the key, re-insert the key, restart the key, wait for the "Mute" signal goes off on the head unit, then sound is there. One day a couple weeks ago, the "mute" emblem stayed on the head unit and sound wouldn't restore no matter what I did, until I pulled the battery cables off. Even then, it didn't return immediately, but it did return a short while after. Try that first. If it doesn't work, you have a choice; find another AGW for around $250 (average) online and try and tackle the job yourself, or turn it over to the dealer and let them handle it. The AGW is not easy to access, but you sound like a man with the skill sets to handle the job if you wanted to.
03-19-2012, 11:16 PM
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2016 E63 s63 (sold),1986 Buick Grand National (sold)2014 ML63
Thanks for the tip!
Where is the AGW exactly?
I am tempted to let the dealer run the install/patch disk thingy for around $100 and see if all is well. I can seem to find anyone with the disc or an .iso image of it, so I'm stuck with the dealer. I am told that fooling around in the operating software you can end up bricking the head unit, not something I want to do, as until Friday the stock system really sounds pretty damn good by itself, and I have mixed enough live music to not need it any louder in the car, lol
It is clearly not a loose connection, it does it even if the vehicle is still - it seems controls related.
I would try the battery idea, but there are two... and pulling all of the fuses related to audio already, I would think I fully dropped power to them already? hmm...
Where is the AGW exactly?
I am tempted to let the dealer run the install/patch disk thingy for around $100 and see if all is well. I can seem to find anyone with the disc or an .iso image of it, so I'm stuck with the dealer. I am told that fooling around in the operating software you can end up bricking the head unit, not something I want to do, as until Friday the stock system really sounds pretty damn good by itself, and I have mixed enough live music to not need it any louder in the car, lol
It is clearly not a loose connection, it does it even if the vehicle is still - it seems controls related.
I would try the battery idea, but there are two... and pulling all of the fuses related to audio already, I would think I fully dropped power to them already? hmm...
03-23-2012, 09:12 AM
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Hey Chris,
The AGW is located way up inside the inner wall of the trunk on the driver's side. If you can remove the left side of the trunk liner, where you get access to the fuse tower, you will see the metal wall of the trunk. If you look, you will see the nuts that hold the AGW to the other side of that wall. There are some other machine bolts that go into the floor of the trunk... you can look behind the fuse tower and see where they are. I found it by following the cable bundle that leaves the Nav and fuse tower with my hands and was able to feel it mounted to the inside wall. It's a bit of a pain to get to, but if you have the interest, you can get it out. If I recall correctly, the nuts and bolts are No. 10 hex head metric. Since I pulled mine out and replaced it, I will try and re-mount it in a more accessible area, I just haven't had the time to do it.
The speaker wire harness comes out of the AGW and goes to the various doors and rear deck (if your rear deck has speakers... mine doesn't).
FYI, I also pulled my fuses out to try and reset the radio; didn't work. It wouldn't reset until I pulled the cables off the main battery in the trunk.
The AGW is located way up inside the inner wall of the trunk on the driver's side. If you can remove the left side of the trunk liner, where you get access to the fuse tower, you will see the metal wall of the trunk. If you look, you will see the nuts that hold the AGW to the other side of that wall. There are some other machine bolts that go into the floor of the trunk... you can look behind the fuse tower and see where they are. I found it by following the cable bundle that leaves the Nav and fuse tower with my hands and was able to feel it mounted to the inside wall. It's a bit of a pain to get to, but if you have the interest, you can get it out. If I recall correctly, the nuts and bolts are No. 10 hex head metric. Since I pulled mine out and replaced it, I will try and re-mount it in a more accessible area, I just haven't had the time to do it.
The speaker wire harness comes out of the AGW and goes to the various doors and rear deck (if your rear deck has speakers... mine doesn't).
FYI, I also pulled my fuses out to try and reset the radio; didn't work. It wouldn't reset until I pulled the cables off the main battery in the trunk.
03-26-2012, 11:52 PM
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2016 E63 s63 (sold),1986 Buick Grand National (sold)2014 ML63
Thanks again - the trunk liner looks daunting to remove and reinstall without damaging anything, maybe I should just not wear my skirt? lol...
I just don't want to mess anything up.
I am game to try the battery cable reset as well as making sure all connections are in order with the AGW...speaking of hidden stuff, where did these Gerry's put the amp itself?
I just don't want to mess anything up.
I am game to try the battery cable reset as well as making sure all connections are in order with the AGW...speaking of hidden stuff, where did these Gerry's put the amp itself?
03-26-2012, 11:54 PM
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I guess I just don't want to brick the whole damn thing hamfisting around....yanno?
The dealer looked in the computer for my radio "code" and there's no records, the whole car and all are in there... says I have to call MBUSA with my VIN.... ? Really? (I saw the screen myself....)
The dealer looked in the computer for my radio "code" and there's no records, the whole car and all are in there... says I have to call MBUSA with my VIN.... ? Really? (I saw the screen myself....)
03-27-2012, 03:37 PM
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Yeah, I definitely understand about not wanting to "brick it up," as you so eloquently put it! lol... Just make sure all power is off before you disconnect or reconnect anything. Don't make any connections live...
The trunk liner is really not too hard to remove or move out of the way. Pinebaron's got a good write up in his sticky, check that out.
As far as the amp, it's integrated in the AGW. If your system has Logic 7 with a rear shelf sub, you'll see the radiator ribs in the body of the AGW. If you don't have Logic 7, the AGW won't have anything that looks like a traditional amp, but the AGW has the job of amplification. It has the speaker wires coming out of the back of it, and you'll feel it when you reach behind the trunk inner and outer wall.
Have no fear, honestly; the connections into and out of the AGW are pretty straight-forward. Power in, fm antenna in, am antenna in, signal in, fiber in/out, and speakers out.
The trunk liner is really not too hard to remove or move out of the way. Pinebaron's got a good write up in his sticky, check that out.
As far as the amp, it's integrated in the AGW. If your system has Logic 7 with a rear shelf sub, you'll see the radiator ribs in the body of the AGW. If you don't have Logic 7, the AGW won't have anything that looks like a traditional amp, but the AGW has the job of amplification. It has the speaker wires coming out of the back of it, and you'll feel it when you reach behind the trunk inner and outer wall.
Have no fear, honestly; the connections into and out of the AGW are pretty straight-forward. Power in, fm antenna in, am antenna in, signal in, fiber in/out, and speakers out.
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03-27-2012, 10:39 PM
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**** Update ****
Thanks again guys the the responses.
Tonight driving home, I noticed the "SOS" button in the overhead console lighting up, and then dimming... there seems to be a correlation to this weirdness and the radio cutting in and out... I opened the center console and also noticed the wrench and the "i" buttons for roadside assistance going red from the amber they usually are... and back. Again, a correlation to the radio having it's episodes...
I of course pressed all of these buttons in an effort to cancel whatever it was doing, to no avail. The car does NOT have a telephone installed factory, but upon pressing these buttons I noticed the head unit trying to "dial" .. - I hit "end" to make it stop - but it seems to still be randomly lighting these 3 buttons up I described earlier....
Does this lend any further direction to what's going on?
Lastly, it DOES have logic-7 with the rear deck speakers.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks again guys the the responses.
Tonight driving home, I noticed the "SOS" button in the overhead console lighting up, and then dimming... there seems to be a correlation to this weirdness and the radio cutting in and out... I opened the center console and also noticed the wrench and the "i" buttons for roadside assistance going red from the amber they usually are... and back. Again, a correlation to the radio having it's episodes...
I of course pressed all of these buttons in an effort to cancel whatever it was doing, to no avail. The car does NOT have a telephone installed factory, but upon pressing these buttons I noticed the head unit trying to "dial" .. - I hit "end" to make it stop - but it seems to still be randomly lighting these 3 buttons up I described earlier....
Does this lend any further direction to what's going on?
Lastly, it DOES have logic-7 with the rear deck speakers.
Thanks in advance!
03-28-2012, 08:04 AM
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I've seen this problem on one of the Benz forums before. I'm googling the issue now trying to find the thread with the guy's solution... I don't remember what it was, but I do remember it was a pretty simple fix.
You can start bird ******* it yourself as well, but post up if you find the solution before I do, and I'll do the same if I find it first!
You can start bird ******* it yourself as well, but post up if you find the solution before I do, and I'll do the same if I find it first!
04-05-2012, 12:28 AM
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I guess I have one course of action left - try the battery cable off-reset option, if not deal with the dealer...
I did get an .iso image of one of the service disks from a fellow board member, but I'm a little gun shy about trying it, as the procedure I have found also requires some updates only provided by the STAR diagnostics system, and I can't find an indy shop or a board member in the are with access to one....
sigh.
I did get an .iso image of one of the service disks from a fellow board member, but I'm a little gun shy about trying it, as the procedure I have found also requires some updates only provided by the STAR diagnostics system, and I can't find an indy shop or a board member in the are with access to one....
sigh.
06-09-2012, 09:49 PM
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Chris,
I have a cl55 05. The changer in the trunk won't eject. Again. Holding in the eject button causes 3 blinking lights. Oh, I just had the auto window function resynched by the knowledgeable dealer,fwiw.
I called MB support and the said "you sound like a Diyer you should go to the dealer." there was love intheir voice.
then they toldme about the battery disconnect hard reboot.
I am unwilling to do this since I am afraid it will wipe outmore than just the changer issue. We want to buy a third MB a2013 GLK to replace the Audi on special order but this does not make us happy. They don't want to do euro delivery either.
In the old days MB was the best or nothing but this is less than zero. A service manual accompanied the car, if you wished to order same, so you could have it with you on your travels. Good dealers welcomed informed customers.
I have a cl55 05. The changer in the trunk won't eject. Again. Holding in the eject button causes 3 blinking lights. Oh, I just had the auto window function resynched by the knowledgeable dealer,fwiw.
I called MB support and the said "you sound like a Diyer you should go to the dealer." there was love intheir voice.
then they toldme about the battery disconnect hard reboot.I am unwilling to do this since I am afraid it will wipe outmore than just the changer issue. We want to buy a third MB a2013 GLK to replace the Audi on special order but this does not make us happy. They don't want to do euro delivery either.
In the old days MB was the best or nothing but this is less than zero. A service manual accompanied the car, if you wished to order same, so you could have it with you on your travels. Good dealers welcomed informed customers.
