jbondox

You're a treat! Do you understand that I already had/have experience with the Prima? which shop in FL? I know most of the Audison dealers, maybe I will have them tell you to quit talking out of your ****? I been doing Audison since they returned back to the USA, and in fact been dealing with them years before. The Prima 8.9 is a great piece, but is not the final solution. Further you would like to know, that there is an Audison product called BIT DMI for pretty much everything but the S/CL which is the same thing I was attempting to design on the S/CL in 08.

BTW, why would any Audison dealer talk a customer out of Prima? Is there some secret conspiracy? No, but maybe there are shops, product specialists or MB specialists that know what system to go with what vehicle for the BEST solution for a vehicle.

So keep talking your ignorance. BTW, I have yet to run into a BMW that was anything close to the MB, sure they have MOST optical in common but that is where it ends.

Now if anyone that knows audio basics, knows you just showed that you are pretty clueless to high end audio.

I'm done with your half arsed ideas... I think I might go downstairs and toss out the center on my theater system after your great advice.

Mike5215

Yeah, HK uses the same 600 watt DSP amp, the same 8" dual coil shallow mount subs, the same 4" Alumaprene mids, the same 6.5" Alumaprene woofers, and the same tweeters in its BMW Logic 7 systems. In fact, Focal makes drop in replacements for the HK 4" and for the 8" sub (IFBMW-S) that also work in Mercedes. Listen, nobody expects you to stay current on everything.

I've enjoyed our little chats. I still don't understand how an Audison digital signal processor in my car delivers poor quality, "molested" signal using "voodoo", but you're a HUGE fan of Audison digital signal processors and super familiar with them in your work as an installer. Those seem like two mutually exclusive viewpoints.

Or they sound like a guy who got his nose out of joint because he feels some sort of bizarre territoriality over an Internet forum and isn't really paying attention to what he's saying from one post to the next.

On your home system, I recommend tossing everything but the two front and two surround channels and the sub. Sounds crazy but some guy on an Internet forum suggested I do that with the 14 channel system in my car.

Yaadman_AMG

So if I wanted to add a simple powered sub, could I just disconnect the factory sub, remove it, and then use the speaker wires that use to connect to the factory sub as the speaker level inputs that go into the new powered sub's amp?

JL has a very nice and compact line of powered subs in a variety of combos. You can get a single or dual 8" W3v3 or a single 10" or 12" TW1. I like the dual 8" setup as it would tuck nicely up against the rear seats.

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp208lg-w3v3...-systems-93331

Mike5215

Yes. Most likely you'd also need to run power directly from the battery, but you can pick up the factory subs signal from the leads in the trunk and send it to the JL using the speaker level inputs on the new amp.

Yaadman_AMG

There is a small battery in the trunk as well. Its under the carpet next to the tire service kit.

Mike5215

I guess if it's 12v and the amperage is sufficient that would work. How small is it? (My 2010 got a larger battery up front and no consumer battery in the trunk so I've never seen one.)

Mershady_925

So, i already pulled the trigger on everything but the bit one. Its all currently on the way to the shop. Although, my car was hit in the driver's door so i now have to wait for that to be fixed. Also i made the mistake of buying a "new" bit one unit on amazon. When i saw that it wasnt factory sealed i retuened It and will be purchasing it through the installer this time.

Im not 100 percent sure how the shop plans to use the 6 channels of the JL amp. But if it means loosing the surround effect im fine with that. He assured me that the center dash speaker would be powered and run through the bit one i believe.

Mike5215

I think one of the big advantages of the Bit One/Prima etc is the ability to go with full active crossovers for the main speaker 3-way components in the doors. Each speaker in the array gets its own individual channel, giving you enormous flexibility in tuning. You can set up equalization, crossover, time correction and level on each tweeter for example.

On a passive crossover, one full range signal is sent to all three speakers in the array and processing affects all three simultaneously. There's no way, for example, to decrease the level of the mid range speakers without decreasing the levels for the woofer and tweeter at the same time. Same goes for everything else in the Bit One's bag of tricks, and it's a big bag.

It sounds like the shop is going passive to each door (that's 4 of the available 6), one for the sub (5) and one open. I'd put that one open on the center channel. There's signal in the centers and surrounds with or without Logic & turned on. The rears play so little material I'd either disconnect them or leave them on the OEM amp.

It's almost like if you're going passive to everything the best parts of the Bit One aren't being utilized, and it's a really expensive piece to be used essentially as an EQ, where a much less expensive analog trunk EQ would give you the same results.

Or, maybe buy another Bit One and amp and get 12 optimized channels

KienPC

This is a great & happened to be the first thread for me in the MB community.

I'm the distributor for Audison in Vietnam & very familiar with AP8.9bit, DMI, Prima, SR, Voce ..
We have installed quite a huge number of Voce+ Quatro+ Bit one, Bit Play HD ....
Our recent choice for the end-user is the Prima speaker with SRx amp which highly perceived by car audio community.

For the months I have been playing around with BMW NBT, AV8.9Bit, Bit DMI, MoBrdige DA3, Prima & SRx series.

My experience with BMW might help for the MB:
- Av8.9bit works fine with the good master input (in my case is NBT line output)
- Little problem by DAC of AV8.9bit: the sound is so thin & weak. Still finding the way why ???
- Individual AV8.9bit amp 35w-4Ohm is just for the mid & treble, always use the bridge channel for the Woofer
- MoBridge DA3: the best & true audiophile grade DAC - the sound quality is astonishing. Highly recommended if your ear require a true hi-end sound.
- Avoid to use the front center speaker: it sound crazy but the true sound stage shall arrive if the front is configured properly, is this case the center speaker volume should be set at minimum for not downgrading the system sound quality.
- For the up-front base effect, the sub-woofer box should be calculated & customized thoroughly otherwise
- SRx amp range is really a good choice for the Prima speaker.

Thanks all for your discussion.

rpr2

Is the Audison Bit DMI compatible with the 2010 S/CL class (W221/W216)? Audison's site does not indicate it is; only the W220/W215. If compatible I'd like to use it to make a "Full DA" system-- using the Bit One and the Voce5.1k. I appreciate the discussion as well!

jbondox

it is not.

Mershady_925

Hey all. Im the OP of this thread. (well the one who asked Mike5212 for his 2 cents on my upgrade anyway) I posted a somewhat detailed description of my completed system on the audio-electronics forum and thought i would link it here to anyone wondering about the success of the system i had proposed. In short, it came out well. Very pleased


https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-ele...ml#post6739890




.

rippleyaliens

This was the absolute best post, that I have read, with regards to Aftermarket sound for Mercedes. My life-long Inception Mission (since 1990~) Per ICE-T, "High Rollers". Was to get a 500 benz sedan, with the system peaked out rockin Pusherman.

I have a 2012 E550 4matic. Awesome car, but the soundsystem for a 80k car, is horrific. First car I have ever owned with non-parametric sound, and it is horrible. To resolve my bass issues, I had a JL 12W7 installed. Just a single sub. I don't have fold down seats, so in essance the entire trunk is somewhat sealed. Tremendous BASS, Tremendous. Actually tooooo much bass. Makes the basic system sound lame in comparison.

The stock Mercedes HK- sounds impressive compaired to almost any stock audio, but its dsp (whatever it is called), seems to have a mind of its own. with Windows down, it sounds different. With the sun-roof open, it sounds really different. When adjusting the volume, it is as if, at certain volume notch, the sound radically changes. Like 1 turn, and the bass goes kinds crazy, the treble kind of falls off, etc..

I am kinda pumped up about the Audison AP8.9 ..
Couple questions...
1. With this just being a plug\pray solution, how much of a difference in sound quality is there? Is it slightly noticeable, or is it like night\day?
2. I can read the manual, yet it can't tell me, how much bass is controlled? For instance, My favorite sub controller, was an Alpine Subwoofer parametric EQ. Where I can control, what freq I can allow through. 20~120hz, In what Phase the Sub will preform. How much Boom vs tight bass, etc.. Will the AP8.9 does it allow for that level of customization?
3. The killer.. Is there a remote- unit that allows for easy modification, or does it have to be done through a PC? (sometimes I want absolute clarity.. and sometimes.. I want to be beating down the street).


I appreciate any answers, comments.. (I love to learn).

BadaBingMan

Hi which wiring diagram would be used for a 2012 cl63. And has anyone in the ny area done this yet?

Alexa Victor

W212 wanna make a upgrade what you did with yours , let mw know thank you

rippleyaliens

The ultimate solution, that I have discovered, is WAYYY OUT There, with regards to equipment. BUT... For the Immediate solution, which has turned out better than I had ever expected.
My first solution was adding a sub woofer+amp+Active-control\W knobb.. IT added, alot of bass, which made the audio, more alive in ways, yet had its hiccups. This worked for me, from 2014-- up until Dec 2018, when JL Audio released their "Vxi" series amplifiers.

Second solution, was 12W7 + VX1000/1i W\Knob.. MANNNNNNNNNNNNNN that has made the difference, that is neccessary.
The VXi series Amps, from JL, offer onboard DSP.. Which also, takes RAW signal's in, strips existing DSP off, and give's the AMP a very clean, FLAT Signal, after equalization. As the VXi Amp's have an onboard Parametric EQ + Self Equalization-- which flattens the sound, baised on a Mic. To give you a pure signal, with no distortion, or NEED for an additional component. I have mine set at anything below 55hz, which seemed to be teh sweet-spot for me, in my E63 (fold down seats).

Greatest part, is that the AMP is networkable, with other VXi series amp, to preform a true 20-20K hz parametric controled audio system. Only need to run a Network patch cable, between amps and a hub. And is all remote adjustable, via a Phone\tablet\laptop. (but you need a multi-channel AMP to fully unlock the additional features)..

This upgrade, transformed my stock system, into something, I truly enjoy listening to. Next year, will be the speaker (s) + Amp upgrade. With the Vxi-- Having that 12w7, is extreme overkill. (A First-- out of my mouth)..

prestonhendu

I kept it simple. And cheap. I grabbed signal from the gateway sending it through an LC7i unit. Front and rear HKs are on a Rockford 500 4-channel. Added a Sundown SA-12 sub pushed by a Rockford R500 sub amp. Disconnected factory sub and left center and rear decks hooked to gateway. Sound great to me 🤷🏾‍♂️

aznlegend

Hi All,

First let me say that this thread is awesome. I have a 2011 E350 and in the process of upgrading the sound system. I'm planning on installing the following and wanted to get your thoughts on it. Also,does anyone have any experience using the JL Audio FIX86 processor? If so your thoughts on it.

Front Doors:
Focal 165A3 3-Way Component Speakers
Rear Doors:
Focal 165AS 2-Way Component Speakers
Subs:
2 x 12" JL Audio 12TW1 subs in a custom enclosed box
Processor:
JL Audio Fix86
Amps:
JL Audio HD600/4 - power the front and rear components
JL Audio HD1200/1 - power the subs

E63007

I have a 2007 W211 E63, with a build date that occurred in June of 2006, and I would like to update both the telematics as well as the Rear Drivers Side DVD Navigational Map. I do subscribe to XM/Sirius Satellite. So I could use any info regarding that, if you have it? Nevertheless, I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire rear Suspension after having done a Rear Main Seal.

On the Stereo side, I have the idea of upgrading the Stereo and am trying to determine exactly how many speakers are powered individually by the rear Amp. Since I haven't taken apart the door panels to see if the Tweeter is connected to the Woofer via a capacitor (ie-1 channel) or if it is driven individually (ie-2 channel), I will have to figure this out before hooking up my Audison Bit Nove and both Amps! Moreover, it appears that there are 2 speakers (Right & Left) NOT on the door but situated 6-8 inches towards the firewall in the kick-panel on each side (3 Channel???) ? On the drivers Side, it's placed behind the hood release latch? On Passenger, no obstruction other than the moulded carpet itself. Are these Midranges or are they Alarm Speakers or something??? I mean they are in such a spot that it's sorta hard to determine if there is sound coming from them and, since I haven't gotten my Tascam recording rig with Microphones and a headphone to make the determination, I just thought I'd ask??

I intend on being the least intrusive to the MOST system as possible taking signal from 4 (Ft Tweeter & Mids) Amplified channels into Audison SPM-4 Line Passive Mixer Converter to 2 channel out to connect to the 6 (2 from SPM-4 and 4 more from R&L Ft Woofer & Rear Full Pass) channel leads in to the Audison Bit Nove. I've got a Gladen 5 Channel RC150c5 and a Gladen RC105 c4 4 Channel Amp to drive 9 Channels. However, since there is currently a 3 way MOST Adaptor available (on EBay) , I'm toying with the notion of connecting that in the way of the OEM Amp MOST path > AMP > Audison Bit DMI. That way I could get clean signal to the Bit DMI and feed signal to the Audison Bit Nove via Toslink. My concern there is if I did this, would that mean that I would be deleting the ability to use the CD Player, center channel and surrounds being powered by the OEM Amp?? As most people discussing this only have considered removing the MOST from the AMPs path completely by connecting the MOST direct to a Line Converter (Bit DMI-MoBridge DA1 etc.), this obviously would take the OEM AMP out of the picture. However with the 3 way MOST, I'm hoping to keep the OEM Amp Live in 1st position after the Y Adaptor is connected, then the Bit DMI in last position. Theoretically, this would keep the OEM AMP Live and NOT require it being deleted in STAR. But the question is with the the BIT DMI being next in line, would the LACK of return signal from the Bit DMI (that every other component in the MOST System reports instantaneously) keep the MOST System blind to the Bit DMI or would it be detected and cause MOST to Shut Down?? If the Bit DMI could be in last position, it could get clean MOST Optical signal and output via TosLink > Bit Nove > to Gladen Amps via RCA (Not TosLink-would this be worth it?) with each lead spliced/ wired directly into the Outboard OEM speaker wires, and be able to use the OEM Amp Gateway to drive the Center Channel and both rear Surround speakers and still be able to use Volume, Balance, Bluetooth Telephone, Navigation, CD Player etc!! As for splicing, I'm trying to find the link for the female and male OEM Plug from the Gateway so as to more readily connect back to OEM if necessary.

If I don't go with the Bit DMI, then I'll pull signal into the Audison Bit Nove> Both Gladen Amps>to OEM Speaker Wire for all except the front Mids and Tweeters which, as far as I can see from the EPC Catalogue which shows the individual wiring, are all seemingly in-line thereby having no real passive crossover!! So the question remains, for Pre 09' E-Class (like my 07' E63) being that the fronts are NOT true 3 way connected individually to the AGW, how did you run the wiring from the rear to the front? When I peel back the rear Trunk wall paneling, I can see where the OEM wiring runs under the Rear Seat Side Walls. I'm trying to figure out the "easy way" to get wires up front for the two channel on each side. I hoping to avoid having to remove the seats! I'm hoping I can fish the wire down each side but if I get no input from here, I guess I'll find out on my own. Once done, I'll certainly share!!

I look forward to hearing your input!!

Marcus McIntyre

All - If this has been addressed I apologize in advance. I am trying to replace the Center Dash Speaker on my W212 (2015 E350) Sedan. It has the Harmon Kardon 7 Speaker package. The car was sitting for a while and I am getting a distortion from the from which means speaker is dry rotted. Anyone know the size of the speaker and how to get the grille off etc. Any help would be appreciated.

farhanali89

Guys not sure if it helps but im running the following in a 204 2013 C63 that had Harmon Kardon

Helix SDMI25 - Essentially a BITDMI (Audison)
Audison BITTEN
JL Audio HD900-5

JL Audio CP208LG-W3V3 for Subwoofers
Front HK speakers have been upgraded to Focals, The remaining speakers are stock

To explain briefly the chain of items worked as follows

Most input into HK was moved into the Helix SDMI25
Optical out from SDMI25 into my Bit Ten D (Has an opitcal input)
RCA Outs from Bit Ten D to my Amp

My amp powers the aftermarket subwoofer, Front door speakers and Rear door speakers

Centre speaker, 2 Rear shelf speakers and OEM subwoofer are no longer powered or used. The SDMI25 basically acts as the HK amp now as it receives and sends back the signal for the fibre optic loop. Initial impressions, Going digital was WAY better for an amateur like me to get this sounding good. Instantly plugging in via toslink and not having to deequalise etc made things so much easier. I believe when the harmon kardon is disconnected from the most you are sending a flat signal via most into your processor so you start at a clean slate. When tapping the speaker wires you are initially having to deequalise everything from the processor get the stock EQ removed etc.

(Ofcourse there are options to power the components which are no longer used, It means more channels on the Bit ten and amp, Maybe a bit one or a Prima 8.9bit but i wanted to keep it fairly simple and just run a simple front,rear and subwoofer) If money/space was no object and i were to do it again or revisit i would probably go for a 8.9forza -BIT as the single integrated processor/amp plus a dedicated mono for the subwoofer. I could then run all the factory speakers aparts from the subwoofer and a dedicated powerful sub)
Any questions fire away, Glad to see more topics on this as i did this a while back and literally there was no help on the matter.

farhanali89

Grill can be carefully pried up with a trim tool (Look for guides on other mercedes in the same years as most are similar) There may be screws holding the speaker down or clips on the speaker housing.

In terms of size they are similar to the rear surround speakers which are 3-3.5inch i believe. I would replace with an OEM as unsure on what can fit in the housing (aftermarket)