help, car wont start C207 e class coupe no idea where even to start :(
#1
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Mb C207 E class coupe
help, car wont start C207 e class coupe no idea where even to start :(
Hi all,
Any idea what that could be?(see video) the car was in an accident before now fixed, started first time all fine after repair, left for a week or so and tried again when i put key in, dashboard did have no life, just all the warning lights started blinking, at first i though batterycould be dead and after little investigation (10v) changed to brand new battery and still the same however after cycling ignition on and off i managed to bring kombi to life but on very rare ocasions and as soon i tried to crank up it would go back to blinking.
Any idea what could that be?
Thanks
Any idea what that could be?(see video) the car was in an accident before now fixed, started first time all fine after repair, left for a week or so and tried again when i put key in, dashboard did have no life, just all the warning lights started blinking, at first i though batterycould be dead and after little investigation (10v) changed to brand new battery and still the same however after cycling ignition on and off i managed to bring kombi to life but on very rare ocasions and as soon i tried to crank up it would go back to blinking.
Any idea what could that be?
Thanks
#4
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What was damaged in the accident that required repair? That might help narrow down what area of the vehicle is source of the problem. Things like faulty or corroded contacts, loose connections, etc. So we might be able to offer better guidance, if you can provide this information. Just a thought.
#5
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Mb C207 E class coupe
damage was to the roof A pillars, chassis leg had to be changed and both doors. i Suspect previous owner went straight through garage door/gate etc
Nothing electrically was replaced or any wiring for that matter, airbags didn't go off too.
the car started first time when i tried and all worked fine.
i had no response from engine ecu when i scanned whole car, will try now different tool, maybe its just incompatible software. If that wont help will try connecting new engine ecu and see does it respond to any communication.
Had no response from Airbags too but that expected, it needs special tool for it.
and ESP reported: Signal shape/waveform failure thats on a powertrain CAN same as engine ecu
Nothing electrically was replaced or any wiring for that matter, airbags didn't go off too.
the car started first time when i tried and all worked fine.
i had no response from engine ecu when i scanned whole car, will try now different tool, maybe its just incompatible software. If that wont help will try connecting new engine ecu and see does it respond to any communication.
Had no response from Airbags too but that expected, it needs special tool for it.
and ESP reported: Signal shape/waveform failure thats on a powertrain CAN same as engine ecu
#6
Super Member
OK. None of that sounds like the repair folks would have had a reason to get under the hood and play with anything related to the engine or wiring to the engine's electrical components required to simply crank the engine over.
Well you get all the lights on your dash when you turn the key and then get a single click, which usually indicates either battery is defective (the voltage level drops below 12 volts when you try to start the car) or if the voltage levels and ampere levels are all good (you measured both right when trying to start the car right? If not, you need to do so to see what happens when your try to start the car.), the starter itself is bad. Usually starters don't just die this suddenly. They don't usually go from working fine one days and then failing the next.
If you put a new, known good battery into your car and still get low voltage / amperage readings when trying to start the engine (don't just look at the battery readings under no-load conditions), then something is pulling power from the battery. Then you would have the possibility of an intermittent wiring short somewhere. Hopefully that is not the case.
Well you get all the lights on your dash when you turn the key and then get a single click, which usually indicates either battery is defective (the voltage level drops below 12 volts when you try to start the car) or if the voltage levels and ampere levels are all good (you measured both right when trying to start the car right? If not, you need to do so to see what happens when your try to start the car.), the starter itself is bad. Usually starters don't just die this suddenly. They don't usually go from working fine one days and then failing the next.
If you put a new, known good battery into your car and still get low voltage / amperage readings when trying to start the engine (don't just look at the battery readings under no-load conditions), then something is pulling power from the battery. Then you would have the possibility of an intermittent wiring short somewhere. Hopefully that is not the case.
#7
Super Member
By the way, if someone were to drive a car through their garage door or a entry gate of some kind, I would expect at least one airbag to deploy unless it was a very slow rate of sped. Interesting accident.