Could all of these issues be related?
07-25-2007, 12:24 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1998 C230
Could all of these issues be related?
Hi Guys,
I've researched the sight and a lot of the problems I am experiencing have been addressed in other threads, but none have contained all the problems I am experiencing.
1. ABS light- came on two days ago while driving, it has not gone off sense
2. BAS light- came on two days ago while driving at the same time as ABS, it has not gone off sense
3. Cruise Control- has not worked since ABS and BAS lights came on
4. Air Conditioner- in hot weather, the AC blower disengages; stopping the flow of air for a period of 10-15 seconds, then comes back on and blows like normal. The system does not shut down and it continues to blow on the feet, but not on the face.
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor- replaced May 18, 2007. Check engine light came on, MB Tech replaced it and the light went off- even after this was replaced- I still experience sluggish or jerking starts when the vehicle is freshly started- done by Indy tech- I am very insecure with his work.
6. Battery- has not been replaced- since I have had the car- 2001- present, on a couple occasions, the car has not started until I pull the key and try again- it idles very low
7. High pitched noise after 45 mph
8. Tensioner Pulley does need to be replaced- I have the parts but no one to install it.
9. Tail light indicator light is on, but no bulbs are out and the tech said that it is an electrical problem.
I took it in to replace the tires and have the system checked out. During which they found that the front driver brake assembly had shifted and was digging a groove into the metal sham. They also said it looked like the brake assembly had been put on upside down and they couldn't find the brake sensor wires. This is NOT a Mercedes specialist and I don't have confidence in their ability to troubleshoot this problem.
There are so many possibilities as to the cause and many are quite expensive. I don't want to waste money letting the "doctor" rule out problems. I'd rather it be solved by working the history than experimentation.
Here are some of the possibilities that might be causing the problem:
1. Power drain caused by a bad battery
2. Brake Lamp Switch
3. Wheel Speed Sensor
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor
5. Brake sensor wires
6. Wheel speed sensor wires
7. Steering Angle Sensor
8. Engine Mounts
9. Engine wiring harness
10. Faulty ground or a loose wire
11. Brake Pedal Switch
12. ABS Sensor
13. Belts
14. MAS still broken
15. Wheel bearing problems
Since I have so many problems with so many potential solutions, I'm turning to the experts- you guys- to help a girl out.
Thanks for any advice or words of wisdom.
I've researched the sight and a lot of the problems I am experiencing have been addressed in other threads, but none have contained all the problems I am experiencing.
1. ABS light- came on two days ago while driving, it has not gone off sense
2. BAS light- came on two days ago while driving at the same time as ABS, it has not gone off sense
3. Cruise Control- has not worked since ABS and BAS lights came on
4. Air Conditioner- in hot weather, the AC blower disengages; stopping the flow of air for a period of 10-15 seconds, then comes back on and blows like normal. The system does not shut down and it continues to blow on the feet, but not on the face.
5. Mass Air Flow Sensor- replaced May 18, 2007. Check engine light came on, MB Tech replaced it and the light went off- even after this was replaced- I still experience sluggish or jerking starts when the vehicle is freshly started- done by Indy tech- I am very insecure with his work.
6. Battery- has not been replaced- since I have had the car- 2001- present, on a couple occasions, the car has not started until I pull the key and try again- it idles very low
7. High pitched noise after 45 mph
8. Tensioner Pulley does need to be replaced- I have the parts but no one to install it.
9. Tail light indicator light is on, but no bulbs are out and the tech said that it is an electrical problem.
I took it in to replace the tires and have the system checked out. During which they found that the front driver brake assembly had shifted and was digging a groove into the metal sham. They also said it looked like the brake assembly had been put on upside down and they couldn't find the brake sensor wires. This is NOT a Mercedes specialist and I don't have confidence in their ability to troubleshoot this problem.
There are so many possibilities as to the cause and many are quite expensive. I don't want to waste money letting the "doctor" rule out problems. I'd rather it be solved by working the history than experimentation.
Here are some of the possibilities that might be causing the problem:
1. Power drain caused by a bad battery
2. Brake Lamp Switch
3. Wheel Speed Sensor
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor
5. Brake sensor wires
6. Wheel speed sensor wires
7. Steering Angle Sensor
8. Engine Mounts
9. Engine wiring harness
10. Faulty ground or a loose wire
11. Brake Pedal Switch
12. ABS Sensor
13. Belts
14. MAS still broken
15. Wheel bearing problems
Since I have so many problems with so many potential solutions, I'm turning to the experts- you guys- to help a girl out.
Thanks for any advice or words of wisdom.
07-30-2007, 04:00 AM
#2
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A140
Hi Mary,
In my view these problems are not all related and tackling them one by one is the best solution. Related to the ABS/BAS problem it is usefull to verify the wheel speed sensors one by one or read the failure codes in the onboard computer. Verifying the sensors can be done by disconnecting them one by one and checking the resistance at the terminals inside the connector with, preferably, a digital ohmmeter. While measuring it is useful to actuate the cable somewhat near the sensor. Often the transition from cable to sensor is degraded as a result of material degradation or associated moisture effects.
The measured restance should remain stable without fluctuations.
In my A140 the RH wheel sensor suffered from this problem.
Furthermore it is usefull to visit http://www.sergiovalente.org/board/h...viewlink&cid=2 because lots of information can be found there. If necessary I might be able to help you further from my MB database.
Good luck,
Jos
In my view these problems are not all related and tackling them one by one is the best solution. Related to the ABS/BAS problem it is usefull to verify the wheel speed sensors one by one or read the failure codes in the onboard computer. Verifying the sensors can be done by disconnecting them one by one and checking the resistance at the terminals inside the connector with, preferably, a digital ohmmeter. While measuring it is useful to actuate the cable somewhat near the sensor. Often the transition from cable to sensor is degraded as a result of material degradation or associated moisture effects.
The measured restance should remain stable without fluctuations.
In my A140 the RH wheel sensor suffered from this problem.
Furthermore it is usefull to visit http://www.sergiovalente.org/board/h...viewlink&cid=2 because lots of information can be found there. If necessary I might be able to help you further from my MB database.
Good luck,
Jos
07-30-2007, 09:50 AM
#3
Super Member
3 could be shut down due to the error code for 1 and 2. 6 could be causing 1 and 2 if the battery is going dead. Your battery is due for a replacement anyway due to age and it could solve this issues. Even if it doesn't, you still need a new battery for piece of mind that you are not going to get stranded somewhere.
The mechanic you have is not good. You need to go to a real MB capable mechanic and start getting all of this sorted out. It will be cheaper in the long run because your current mechanic is just guessing from what you describe. Revolution in Decatur, MB Werks in Roswell, German AutoWerks in Atlanta, and Star motorcars in Duluth are some that have been recommended to me.
The mechanic you have is not good. You need to go to a real MB capable mechanic and start getting all of this sorted out. It will be cheaper in the long run because your current mechanic is just guessing from what you describe. Revolution in Decatur, MB Werks in Roswell, German AutoWerks in Atlanta, and Star motorcars in Duluth are some that have been recommended to me.
