99 C280 Component Questions
That link is for E-Class 4-digit codes..
I need the DTC code:
42 1
41 6
41 7
41 9
Where are these DTC codes?
Are these codes the same as the ODBII codes PXXXX??
Last edited by ScottyP; Jan 18, 2009 at 07:01 PM.
If I remember correctly, the E-Class and C-Class codes are the same - you just subtract the B1 from the E-Class codes.
These are not "P" codes. "P" stands for powertrain.
421 Pulse module
416 Coolant Circulation Pump
417 Duovalve
419 Electromagnetic Clutch
So what is the Pulse Module and where is it located?
Cleared the codes and 421 error code returned after a short trip to the mall.
Sent a PM to Steve but no reponse yet..
Last edited by ScottyP; Jan 19, 2009 at 01:25 PM.
However, my guess is that this code search is leading nowhere. I have attached a diagnostic chart for the Pushbutton Module (N22). You can pull the module and check inputs and outputs at the connectors. There are two connectors, 1 and 2. You will have to figure out which is which - look carefully for markings on N22 itself or the connectors. The numbers on the left column are connector/pin numbers. For example, 1.8 is connector 1, pin 8. I have also attached a connector diagram - it is a bit hard to read, but it shows the pin locations on the connectors themselves.
Good luck.
Last edited by vinceC; Jan 20, 2009 at 04:36 PM.
Unfortunately, I dont have the Pushbutton Module (N22). My module is the digital type. It uses the radio removal keys to extract and the connectors are different too.
Your second attached file is damaged and I could not open the file. Please replace the file.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I am attaching the Connector Diagrams for a second time. I tested it before and after attaching it and it opens fine for me in Adobe 6 & 7. The forum software won't let you attach the same file again, so I had to go back to the original post with the attachment and delete the first try to get this second try to work.
Still having problems with the new file. Im using Adobe 9 reader and Adobe 6 Pro. Not sure what wrong with the file.
It looks like plug #1 is for inputs. In other words, those are values coming from sensors, etc. and you read them at the female side of the plug. But since you can pull many of the values using the Rest button I don't know how much value this really has.
NOTE: At the top of the chart is a note that "All values measured to ground unless otherwise noted".
Plug #2 looks like it is for outputs so you would measure them at the male side (the module side). It would be interesting to see what the outputs are to the switchover valve block (located on the back side of the blower housing under the glovebox). That is where the vacuum signal gets sent to the servos. If no signal is getting to the block, something almost certainly has to be wrong at N22.
I have to say I think unless someone else has a magic bullet, this looks like it is getting too difficult to solve on the forum. If you had one of the W202 Service CD's or were able to navigate the WIS, you could use the ETM, which has the wiring diagrams in color, the plug diagrams, diagnostics, etc. But this way just doesn't seem to be working for you.
As for Plug 2, Im really not expecting outputs to the switchover valve (due to being in default mode) but will validate. The problem will probably be upstream from the inputs on Plug 1 (causing the default mode). What Im trying to figure out within the WIS is the diagnosis for determining what events/sensors inputs causes default mode. Then investigate each one.
I can hear a whirling & bubbly noise coming from the dash when driving slow. Its like something is trying to startup but cant...
Not giving up yet!! Using the forum really does work for me, as I get input based on real experiences. Im very detailed oriented and this platform gives me the best possibility to identify the defective circuit/sensor/valve.
Maybe I should start another thread in the Tech Talk section as the HVAC control unit was used in multiple MB models.
Last edited by ScottyP; Jan 21, 2009 at 11:12 AM.
Lets try to make this easy by going to the CD. Guiding you through the WIS (I don't have pirated discs - I subscribe when I want info) will be much more difficult. By the way, in case you don't already know, EPC is the Electronic Parts Catalog.
If you truly have the W202 Star Classic Service CD Part # P-2700-202-03 (or higher on the last digits), it is in the ETM with Star Finder. Select ETM at the top of the Introduction page, select WEB ETM with STAR Finder, select Group 83 Heating and Air Conditioning from the Main Index, select 83.40-U-2000F Air conditioning (automatic) MODEL 202 as of 09/01/97 with CODE (581a) Air conditioning (Automatic).
That will take you to the specific wiring diagram for your car. Click on any component and a sub menu will pop up with a diagram, diagnostics, legend and connector.
The wiring diagram is marked like a map. The leads to the switchover valve block are between 6 and 9 on the horizontal axis on the diagram.
I will try to follow your selection criteria as this software is different. Will let you know if I find the same info.
WIS is the mega version of M-B diagnostics. The real version on the web (www.startekinfo.com) is what the dealers use. It takes a lot of time to learn.
The Classic Service CDs & DVDs are mini versions of the WIS. They don't include anywhere near as much info (and they only include info for the specific model), but 95% of the time they are exactly what the DIYer needs. They are also cheap if you compare regular subscription time on the web WIS. If I need info from WIS, I generally wait until I have a block of stuff to look up and do a 24 hr. subscription, but with the CDs and DVDs I rarely need to use WIS.
By the way, the EPC at www.startekinfo.com is free - they ask for a credit card but don't charge. It will always be current. The discs won't.
I havent found the ETM yet.
You are correct about WIS Mega data. It gives me lots of info and its not organized very well. Everything is organized into very long document list trees. I have a Selection window to narrow the search of documents. I have documents for My 95, MY96 and MY99 with & without Tempmatic. Very time consuming. I need to order the other Star CD set as this is very confusing.
Much easier to search by document number. So if you have the diagnostic document number, I can probably find it using the document sort. argggg...
I like this system better than the earlier system. It is simpler and much quieter and without the engine driven fan there is much more room to work on the belt, water pump, etc.
Agreed, I like the extra room and the newer design too. Those old aux fans were very loud in the summer heat but did an excellent job in traffic while efficiently cooling the engine on those hot, humid summer 95+ days. How does this single fan system perform in the summer?
I had a problem with the N65/1 on the '00, but N22 worked fine. The problem manifested itself in the warmer months. In stop/go traffic the A/C capacity would drop at a stop because the fan wasn't increasing in speed enough to meet the A/C condenser requirements. As soon as the car started to roll and there was some additional air flow the A/C would operate normally.

Searching for a procedure to test the actual unit to determine if its bad wiring or the unit itself.
Any ideas?
It might be worth checking the plug connector at N65/1 for corrosion before replacing the part.
Question - does the radiator fan run? As a confirmation of the pin test you could try blocking air flow to the radiator with a piece of cardboard, set the A/C to LO and see if the fan speeds up. It might be hard to make it happen this time of year, though. Perhaps if you can do the test inside a garage - door open of course.
If I select the Automatic & Recirc HVAC buttons, the fan speed up to a much higher speed. The AC compressor is squeaking and then shuts down after 5 mins or so. Then the compressor smokes.
Im having a few discovery issues here and still havent pinpointed the actual HVAC problem yet. Tomorrow (Sat) morning, Im removing the front wheels to test & investigate. I will post results. I was also unable to find a test procedure for the radiator fan control. Its an expensive part too.




