.........does it make a difference?

 

They are all good. Dealers use Castrol.

 

Hay man.....thanks for your replies. I thought the owners manual said something about Mobile One. Oh well, they are all good as you said. I will remember that. Im gonna get my oil changed at the oil change spot and use castrol every 5000 miles. I will just order the filters and take those in with me. $90 at the dealer is rediculous.

 

I thought dealer used Mobile 1 Super Synthetic 0W-40? That's what I used on my recent oil change. I heard you can get it at Costco. I got mine at Autozone, used 8 quarts on my '99 C280.

Change oil every 10K miles, and filter only at 5K mi.

They're all good though.

Good Luck,

timecop369

 

You know, I think you're right. After I put down my post I was starting to wonder if it was Mobile One or not. I'm still not sure about synthetic or nonsynthetic. If they use synthetic then the dealers don't have a bad price for oil changes.

 

Makes a huge difference. You guys need at least an ACEA A3-rated oil. Syntec Blend 10w-40 is a good one. If climate allows any 15w-40 HDEO (diesel-rated) oil will keep it's viscosity and clean extra-well. For synthetics, Mobil 1 0w-40, 5w-40 SUV are good for 1x a year changes, don't use a 30 weight Mobil 1. I use Castrol Syntec 0w-30 made in Germany, available at AutoZone only. Meets all new MB specs and is an incredible fluid. 2x a year changes are great, I don't count miles for changes, maybe 20,000 a year, 6 month changes.

Try the search function on the oil forum I use, some really smart people there.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1

 

i prefer Mobil brand oils.

for the c280, i use mobil one supersyn

 

I have a 2000 C-280 and use Mobil one Synthetic every 5K or so.

 

mb only uses and recommends mobil one.

 

Duh. like I just arrived on this planet.



FYI guys, what is commonly refered to in the US as Mobil 1, the classic 30 weights, is not even sold in Europe. As far as branding an oil to a marque, I think we are all smart enough to see that is simply product-placment. Hey, you got NASCAR oil there, good buddy! Mobil is generally a good oil, not the best, by any informed opinion. There are many brands in Europe that surpass M1, Motul, Fuchs, Elf, Pentosin, yep even Castrol. Castrol Formula R is considered by many to the best oil available, the best Mobil 1 offers, 0w-40, does not come close. Again, branding processes or repeating what you saw on TV does not count as experience or knowledge of oil. What counts is learning what the specs mean, what the actual parameters of the oils are, investigating what the basestocks and various add packs do, how and why. Interpretation of laboratory Used Oil Analysis is also an important skill for the amatuer Triboligist.

Mercedes specs are all covered by my oil, 0w-30 Syntec SLX, why wouldn't a MB owner use it or the myriad of oils whose published specs make it suitable? There is not a bad one in this bunch:

http://www.castrol.de/produkte/a_aut...ele/index.html

...a strait answer deserves a strait question: Why?

 

i know that's what they recommend using but most of the dealers out there use Castrol GTX or Castrol Syn...which they are an excellent oil IMO.

 

Sounds thrilling. Seriously, who the heck has time for this? If Mercedes recommends Mobil 1, then I am sure it's more than adequate for 99.9% of Mercedes drivers, who don't run their cars on the track.

The reliability of their cars is certainly in Mercedes best interest for long-term prosperity and customer satisfaction. Not to say that there aren't other oils that are as good or better. But if Mercedes recommends a certain oil, even if it is for business reasons, it would still have had to meet the approval of their engineers.

Personally, I just trust my independent repair shop, Hatch & Sons - since they specialize in Mercedes restoration and repair. I think they either put in Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec.

If anyone finds me investigating basestocks of oils, please slap me.

Mike

 

im not arguing that they are all great brands of oil, just replying to an earlier post about mb using castrol.

 

Hatch & Sons uses Castrol GTX in my c220 and i'm pretty sure they use Castrol Syn in your w202.

 

Fascinating. (in his best Dr.Spock inpersonation)

 

OK, I guess we're even. But sarcasm and the web go so well together. By the way, for what it's worth, I do love Audis too. In fact, if the new A4 was larger than the last generation, that is what I would have now for our second car instead of the Passat. And if I was really loaded, I would rather take an RS6 over any Benz. The problem I had with the last generation A4 was that at 6'4", the wide center console was very intrusive. It would knife into my lower leg. When I first saw the new A4, I was all set to go get a 1.8T Quattro with the sport package. I was hoping it would be more roomy. Unfortunately, it still has that wide console that cuts into me in the same spot (but the new platform is incredibly rigid). Even the 3-Series was tons more comfortable and roomy to me. The Passat was too, and had extra room that made fitting a car seat in the back that much easier, so I ended up with the Passat.

My old '98.5 Laser Red A4 2.8 was pretty sweet though. I was running a PES supercharger, A!Avantgarde suspension (matched shocks and springs), 17" Azev Type F wheels, Remus exhaust, sport grille, mintex pads and Toyo Proxes T1's. It was a beast.

As for my Benz, it is sporty enough, and boy is it comfy. The sport seats are incredibly comfortable, and even though it isn't a huge car, it has plenty of interior room, and fits me like a glove. As for handling, the C280 Sport really responds to a good set of tires. I just put on Toyo Proxes 4's, and the jury is still out. They seem a little more cushy around corners than my old Michelin Pilots, but maybe I need to inflate them a little over the factory recommendation. That might sharpen turn in a bit.

Mike

 

Mike, don't do it! You will void the Mercedes warranty and, technically, the lawyers say we can't even allow you to drive out of the shop with them that way. Just kidding. Manuals vary from country to country on things like oil grades, change intervals and tire pressures. I use 36f/34r, generally, the MB will be a lil different. Maybe you can change sizes, if you have 65-series...definately go to a 60 and add one size to the width. If you have 185/65-15, 195/60-15 will work better in every way. More grip, more cushion, better wear etc. I can't believe you have the same issue with the new A4 that I do. I bought a pre-ordered 2002 (B6) without testing the interior and really hated it. No room to spread out, like the Passat that I tried to replace it with. My order was cancelled by the factory due to end of model year. I have a 1998 A4 Avant now, Catcus Green, auto & quattro. I have had 4 A4s and 12 Audis total! My woman has the Coupe GT, 1987 and is saving for the TT. We need AWD here in the Poconos.
My Dad is the Mercedes-guy. He is going from a 1985 300TD to a 2000 C-Class (280?) I am just doing a lil research here for him. Oil service is important and mfgs have made plenty of mistakes. Look at Toyota and their sludge issues. MB has been replacing engines due to people not being aware that Jiffy-Lube "SL" oil will destroy engines if the owner goes by the FSS service light. I understand that the "synthetic only" message (MB 229.3 spec oil) was not included in the manual, so people used whatever oil and ended up with a replacment engine. I tell people to read-up on oils because there are a lot of formulas used and lots of surprises as far as quality issues. Saying that synth is better than dino oil is a total farse. What we can call synth here cannot be called synth in Europe, rather "HC" for hydrocracked. An awesome "dino" oil like Chevron Supreme for $1 is partly hydrocracked..a synth blend anyway. Speaking of blends, the esters that make quality synthetic oil good for seals etc, is included in the new Hi-Mi oils like Pennzoil HM and Castrol GTX HM. They tend to be formulated thick for their stated grade, a big plus over the common light 30 weight oils, M1 included. Anyway, HM oils are great and do work on seals and old deposits. Their detergent level is almost as high as a diesel-rated oil, commonly a 15w-40. I just used some Delvac 1300 in Mom's A6, smooth and long-lasting. I'll use it for summer and M1 SUV for winter. Blends, yeah... $2 Syntec Blend 10w-40 meets the tough Euro ACEA A3 spec, the test is 10x longer than the American API "SL" test. A GREAT replacment for M1 0w-40 and WAY better (for Euro cars) than M1 30 weights! My top otc oils would look like this: German Syntec 0w-30, M1 SUV 5w-40 aka Delvac-1, M1 0w-40, Syntec 5w-50, Saab LL Synthetic 0w-30, Pennzoil Long-Life 15w-40, Syntec Blend 10w-40, Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 Castrol GTX Hi-Mi 5w-30 & all grades of Chevron Supreme. For the record, Mobil 1 has consistantly higher wear metals, especially Fe, in Used Oil (laboratory) Analysis than would be expected.

This is what I use, the SLX (GC) is great stuff, the only imported otc oil we have.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=003815

BTW do people realize that in Europe, they pay like $20+ for a liter of oil due to taxes mostly. The upside is people there demand long change intervals and new Long-Life oils were developed to keep the taxes at bay. Much better products there. Saab is changing oil at 22,000 miles now, Audi 30,000 miles as per VW 503.01 spec!

 

generally, i thought you weren't supposed to synthetics on older years

 

there's nothing really restricting use of synthetics on older engines, its just that older engines are more prone to leakage and while synthetic is a thinner formula than regular dino oil, it may seep through cracks where the dino oils wouldn't

 

available from the BMW dealers and it is reported to be made by Castol and people on the BMW forums say it is a very good oil for people who do not want to spend $10/qt for the "exotic" oils. It is a 5W-30 and runs about $4-$5/qt depending on the discount you may get from the dealer.

 

BMW HP Syn is actually Castrol Softec TXT, an older HC (hydrocracked) "synth" that has been replaced by Dynatec GTX7. Some brown-sludged issues reported, possibly due to the valve-cover fill area not getting washed by fresh oil. No biggie, it is an ok oil. Many better are avilable...#1 would be German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (carries MB 229.3 specs) at AutoZone only and Saab Synth 0w-30 is on sale for $3 (actually Mobil 1 0w-30 Long-Life Polar, Saab goes 22,000 miles between changes) VW dealers have the Syntec 5w-40 from Belgium which is better than the BMW oil. Valvoline Maxlife synth is pretty good. Mobil 1 5w-40 "SUV" aka Delvac-1 is the best all-around choice considering how easy it is to get. The best oils for the money are 15w-40 diesel-rated oils as long as it is not cold climate. Mobil Delvac 1300 or Chevron Delo 400 meet MB 228.3 specs, same as 229.3 except cold-cranking and MPG, but it has better detergent pack and viscosity retention. (M1 0w-40 thins out a lot only to re-thicken, yuk) I have to mention Syntec Blend 10w-40 an A3-rated oil with great used oil analysis results. Check my other thread with a list of 30 or more MB-approved oils.

http://www.castrol.de/produkte/a_aut...ele/index.html

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1