J__

hi guys, my car has recently started rough idling and sputter. First symptom was my car stalled while i came to a stop, twice. Now it hasnt stalled yet but while in any gear other than park or neutral, it would hover aroun 600rpm. In park or neutral it stays around 800rpm, and in all gears, it occasionally bounces the rpm. It backfires and also the exhaust smells alot stronger. I searched the forums and did most of the quick fixes. I replaced spark plugs, cleaned MAF, and cleaned the throttle body. ODB reads code P1342 CMP electrical malfunction. Also had the P0101 Maf code but i think that's because i removed the Maf. Not sure if i should replace the OVP, MAF, or Coils next? any help appreciated. thnx!

xvvvz

The only reference I could find for that code is: "This Relates to Electrical Activation of Adjustable Camshaft Timing Solenoid"

There is a camshaft position sensor that is known to go out. Often it will throw the - "P0341 CMP sensor circuit range/performance Camshaft Hall-effect sensor" This is not to be confused with the more common crankshaft position sensor.

J__

which camshaft position censor would this be? i just replaced the camshaft magnet myself with a new oem one due to oil leakage. is that the one?

Barry Smith

Your problem sounds very similar to the one I had. I replaced coils and checked all connections on injectors and other junctions. This seemed to fix it for about a month.

Assume the temporary fix was because I disturbed the loom and connections but they soon degraded again with the problem returning.

Finally discovered it was a fault in the main wiring loom from computer to injectors etc. The price for replacement in New Zealand for a new loom was almost prohibitive ($3000) and I heard of a local auto electrician who had made new looms for this model.

He would not quote exactly but advised probable round $1000 for parts and labor - did it for $1200 (New Zealand dollars).

Problem totally fixed and car runs better than I remember. Tested at local dealer showed cam angle probs you described prior to the repair. recommend you look at this option

J__

yikes! $3000 for the fix (if i cant find a local cheaper alternative) i took my car in to quote on selling it and 9/10 places offered $3000 for it. The 1 place offere $4000. i dont know if it's even worth me fixing it if it's that costly. It seems to get better when i unplug the MAF, however is it possible its running smoother with the MAF disconnected because it's in limp mode, or is that indication of a faulty MAF? im crossing my fingers it's not a wiring harness issue. Also does anyone know of an online Haynes type manual for the car? i cannot find Haynes for this car locally no matter wat. I live in vancouver bc

rikkerblade

When I read that my I dam near fell out of my seat! Im glade you found a better price. I am having some what the same problem. Ill take a look at that...thanks!

Barry Smith

Hi J__________
The fix I described and priced was in NZ dollars - for Canada probably a lot less. The $3000 was the NZ price for a new factory look. Strong;y recommend you get a price for a rebuild of your loom from a competent auto electrician.

This is a known fault with this model due to the type of insulation that MB used in the production of the looms and unfortunately I believe they will not come to the party now.

regards

Barry Smith

Barry Smith

I note your C280 is a year 2000 model.

I believe that the wiring loom problem did not manifest itself in models other than in line 6 cylinder and from years 1994 until 1996.

good luck

Barry Smith

Barry Smith

I see your C280 is a year 2000 model.

I believe the wiring loom problem did not manifest itself on this model - only on in line 6 cylinder models from 1994 until 1996.

Good luck

Barry Smith