Audio System/Subs
#1
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Mercedes Benz C280
Audio System/Subs
Anybody got some subs or an aftermarket stereo system? Could you share pics and tell me how you went around the BOSE Surround Sound if you had one and did sound improve?
#2
here the videos when i first install my sound system... havent the alpine,b8200bt and the DEQ 9200
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FW5Cp5a8Nhk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nR_QNa8k5E
#4
I'm in the middle of an install right now [Alpine CDA-117 Headunit, Cadence CVLS-553 Convertible Triaxial/Components in the 4 Doors (Front Door - Component, Rear Doors - Triaxial) (2) Kicker Comp VT 6.5" Subs in Rear Deck, (1) Kicker Comp 12 Sub in the trunk all powered by (2) Alpine MRP-F300 amps with a 1 Farad Rockford-Fosgate Cap to minimize the impact of everything on the stock battery (which is only 1 year old)....
I have had a bear of a time isolating alternator noise, though I never had a problem with lights dimming (even before I added the Cap). I have cut my ground wire down at least 3 times, re-routed my RCA's 3-4 times, I have gone through 4 sets of RCAs and I will soon replace my voltage regulator. I have not done the Big-3 nor will I as many car audio sites suggest simply b/c the reduction in resistance caused by such an upgrade is speeds up charging and discharging of the battery through the alternator which can decrease the lifespan of the battery. I could upgrade to a gold top battery, but I don't want to b/c my aim with this system has been to create an audiophile system on a college budget using the stock alternator, stock wires and stock battery. (I'm an electrical engineering student...so it's a bit of a personal engineering project/challenge, if you will.) If I had the money, I would definitely get a a Gold Top or another equivalent battery. I have recently added ground loop isolators, but I have not fired up the system since then, as I have to repair my rear control arm bushings. The ground loop isolators are not true repair as I will still have to track down the source of the ground loop(s).
Aside from the alternator noise it almost rivals my home theater system (another college budget, audiophile project) and better/cleaner than many systems I have heard for either listening environment.
I have had a bear of a time isolating alternator noise, though I never had a problem with lights dimming (even before I added the Cap). I have cut my ground wire down at least 3 times, re-routed my RCA's 3-4 times, I have gone through 4 sets of RCAs and I will soon replace my voltage regulator. I have not done the Big-3 nor will I as many car audio sites suggest simply b/c the reduction in resistance caused by such an upgrade is speeds up charging and discharging of the battery through the alternator which can decrease the lifespan of the battery. I could upgrade to a gold top battery, but I don't want to b/c my aim with this system has been to create an audiophile system on a college budget using the stock alternator, stock wires and stock battery. (I'm an electrical engineering student...so it's a bit of a personal engineering project/challenge, if you will.) If I had the money, I would definitely get a a Gold Top or another equivalent battery. I have recently added ground loop isolators, but I have not fired up the system since then, as I have to repair my rear control arm bushings. The ground loop isolators are not true repair as I will still have to track down the source of the ground loop(s).
Aside from the alternator noise it almost rivals my home theater system (another college budget, audiophile project) and better/cleaner than many systems I have heard for either listening environment.