The Gunny

Trying to replace the leaking electrical connector on my transmission. The bayonet tab should turn to the 7 o'clock position or so I've read. I can get my fingers on most of the lock but I can't get it to turn down to release the plug.

Do I need to push in and turn or
Do I pull and turn or
Do I turn the actual electrical harness or
Do I hook my '98 C280 to the dealership and spend more time at the gym.

There are lots of posts on this subject and they mention just turning the lock counter-clockwise. Any advice will be helpful

The Gunny

Follow up on the connector plug leak: Had to use a long screw driver on the lock, levered it some and it finally gave. When I removed the plug, it was saturated in fluid. removed the 7mm center bolt and pulled the connector out. Total fluid loss about a pint. Checked the old part and turn lock was crusted up and is difficult to spin even when holding it in my hand. (Justifies the words used last night while laying under the car.) Cleaned area around the hole, lubed o-rings and installed the new part. I could see in the hole and made sure the pins were aligned and turn lock was at 7 o'clock position. Connector pushed in and felt like it bottomed. Began tightening the 7mm bolt. The bolt feels like its grabbing but didn't get snug/tight, just spins. I tried to pull the connector out but its tight. I'm thinking that the connector didn't bottom out and the bolt has caught only a couple of threads. Tomorrow, I'll remove the connector and re-seat it. Total time so far...2 hours for a 30 min job and luvin it.

Racin_fool

the total torque spec on that 7mm bolt in there is about 6 Nm.. if you overtorqued it, you stripped out the piece in the transmission electrical kit that it threads into. Basically if you ever have to remove it again, its going to require you to drop the pan, the valve body and replace the electrical plate ontop of the valve body before reinstalling the leaking connector again.