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c280 kompressor - stuck in 1st gear wont change for 2-3 min

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Old 10-17-2015, 06:31 PM
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1994 C280 Kompressor
c280 kompressor - stuck in 1st gear wont change for 2-3 min

my 94 automatic c280 wont shift to 2nd gear when i first start the car. only after 2-3min does it change and goes fine. what could be the problem?

Last edited by romon11; 10-17-2015 at 07:00 PM.
Old 10-19-2015, 11:02 AM
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1999 E300TD
Sounds like you either are very low on fluid or you have a issue with one or more of the shifting solenoids(conductor plate)
Old 10-19-2015, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
Sounds like you either are very low on fluid or you have a issue with one or more of the shifting solenoids(conductor plate)
Oh ok but when I started putting on neutral it was fine? Low on fluid you mean the transmission fluid? Sorry I'm all new to MB's. Thanks for the reply!!
Old 10-19-2015, 12:03 PM
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You are correct when in N=neutral=no torque\movement bla bla bla---and yep low on fluid in this case =transmission fluid!!.


You need to additionally try and help yourself by doing searches and learn about your car!!
Old 10-19-2015, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
You are correct when in N=neutral=no torque\movement bla bla bla---and yep low on fluid in this case =transmission fluid!!.


You need to additionally try and help yourself by doing searches and learn about your car!!
Isn't it what I am doing right now? -_- thanks for your help
Old 10-20-2015, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
You are correct when in N=neutral=no torque\movement bla bla bla---and yep low on fluid in this case =transmission fluid!!.


You need to additionally try and help yourself by doing searches and learn about your car!!
I changed the transm fluid but its still doing it unless i put it to N..
Old 10-22-2015, 09:39 AM
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Read the last five words in post number2
Old 10-28-2015, 06:09 PM
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when our 98 C280 with 55,000 miles started being reluctant to shift up when cold (we live far up a ridge) I changed the conductor plate and fluid but it still wouldn't shift. Shift solenoids all checked good for continuity and ohms. Eventually took it to a pro and he found that a spring in the valve body had broken, apparently not an uncommon event. I had thought about taking off the valve body side cover but as I didn't have the part handy I put it back together, then found no workie. Also, the pro changed one solenoid, for which he hadn't a good explanation. Total charge about 1,150 on top of $300 for a new conductor plate, and 8 liters Valvoline MaxLife at $8.50 each. Getting in and out of the trans is not a demanding job but unless you have access to a lift, you'll be working upside down on the garage floor. The trans continues to drip fluid after being drained and the sump removed, it's a humbug that way. Absolute cleanliness during reassembly is a must.

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