Can't remove this damn Idler Arm!! ARGH!
#2
Besides the separating force, impact will greatly magnify the energy applied. It's the old two-hammer trick: put the heavier of two hammers behind the joint, then sharply strike the joint to encourage the tapered bit to pop out.
I just used this last weekend on the tie rod end of a BMW 325xi from Chicago, where there's lots on the roads that would make these married forever. Several sharp whack later with the 10 ounce ball pein hammer and it dropped right out. I made sure to smear a little grease on the taper so it won't lock up next time. Realistically I was sure surprised when it let go, but that's life!
There seems to be a certain minimum energy level required. Sometimes all the "nice" hits in the world won't loosen a tapered fitting; sometimes just a few good sharp ones will do the trick in almost no time at all.
Of course, if you haven't removed the nut on the other side, you'll be there a while... so make sure to have removed it, or backed it off at least 1/8 inch. Then come back...
Some penetrating oil (50/50 ATF and acetone, but it stinks) or even just WD-40, plus time, will help.
I just used this last weekend on the tie rod end of a BMW 325xi from Chicago, where there's lots on the roads that would make these married forever. Several sharp whack later with the 10 ounce ball pein hammer and it dropped right out. I made sure to smear a little grease on the taper so it won't lock up next time. Realistically I was sure surprised when it let go, but that's life!
There seems to be a certain minimum energy level required. Sometimes all the "nice" hits in the world won't loosen a tapered fitting; sometimes just a few good sharp ones will do the trick in almost no time at all.
Of course, if you haven't removed the nut on the other side, you'll be there a while... so make sure to have removed it, or backed it off at least 1/8 inch. Then come back...
Some penetrating oil (50/50 ATF and acetone, but it stinks) or even just WD-40, plus time, will help.
#3
Junior Member
have someone backup one side with a metal bar of some sort while smacking hard from other side...if hitting from threaded side....thread nut onto threads so as not to mushroom the end. Or one can use an air hammer....looks like a small rivet gun. Penetrating oil in the joint is good too. You just gotta give it some powerful love taps. Worse that happens is you destroy something. Don't be afraid....it can take it. A pickle fork maybe a viable option...Napa rents them as do most car parts places. Press the fork between the two mating surfaces and beat away.