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Brake Work Advice - 1999 C230 Kompressor

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Brake Work Advice - 1999 C230 Kompressor

Old 02-27-2018, 12:52 PM
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1999 C230 Kompressor
Cool Brake Work Advice - 1999 C230 Kompressor

My brake dashboard light came on about a year ago, so I had all new rotors and pads put on even though I had zero braking problems at the time. I noticed that the new brakes actually felt worse immediately. There was a slight pulsing and jerking at low speeds, and I now had a noticeable squeak during low-speed braking. I even noticed brake noise when turning without braking. After driving for a few weeks, hoping it would get better, I took it back to the shop for inspection. At first they tried to tell me that the brakes were fine, and that the noises I was hearing were caused by the suspension system. (Wrong. I know what brake noises sound like.) After my insistence, they inspected them and told me that my rear calipers were failing, causing them to rub and warp the rotors. They suggested that I replace the calipers AND the brand new rotors & pads that they just installed about at month before. At this point, I lacked confidence in that garage, and got a second opinion. This second garage told me basically the same thing.

Here are my questions:
1) The pulsing/squeaking is not that bad. Why do I need to get new rotors when they were just replaced?
2) Even if the rotors NEED to be replaced, why do I also need new pads as well?
3) The new shop will install parts that you bring in. Where should I go to find brake parts that will definitely fit my vehicle and are OEM quality (aka not "cheap aftermarket") parts?

Thanks in advance!
exostencil is offline  
Old 03-12-2018, 03:02 PM
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1998 C280
What I have had suggested to me in a similar situation is to get the car out on the freeway and do five or six hard stops from 70 or 80 (obviously, find a place safe to do this so you aren't rear-ended, which would solve all your problems). The intent is to get the brakes real good and hot, you should be able to smell them. The intended result is to evenly distribute the pad material that is adhered to the surface of the rotors at the microscopic level. The full explanation is longer, but the result the same: hard stops to fully heat the rotors. NOTE you don't come to a complete stop, just from 80 down to 10 or so, each time.

This MAY address your problem. If not, you've not lost anything but the time. Please make completely certain no one is anywhere near behind you when you do this, and understand that all risk is completely yours.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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1998 C230
Change the rotor, pads and calipers also i suggest draining the brake fuel and clean the lines refill and you will be good another 20 yr
Anthony Julien is offline  
Old 03-23-2019, 02:07 AM
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02w163ML500 / 97w210E50AMG / 99w202C230k / 95w124500e-wip
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