GDawgC220

hey guys,

just had my oil changed (on top of a few other things)...they put in 20w-50 Castrol GTX this time...I don't think i've ever used this weight before. Usually, it's always 10w-40 Castrol GTX or 10w-30.

Is there any performance difference in using the heavier weight this time around? Is it better for the summer time because of the hotter weather?

Thanks, I'm trying to understand more about this difference between oil weights and climate

BenzMan1

I thought we had to use a full sybthetic like 0-40? Isn't there seal issues with non synthetics?

GDawgC220

synthetic is recommended for MY98+ engines. You can certainly use it in older engines but due to the thin density of the syn formula, it may seep through cracks where regular conventional oils won't. Some people do use syn in older engines and some don't. up to the user

cil254

Actually it's kind of the opposite with older cars. Synthetic is thiner and could leak through old seals. However, lots of MB owners have switch to Synth on older MBs with no issues at all.

Holson

Sounds like Hatch and Sons to me.

I'm happy with 20W-50 - I think my engine used to be more rev happy (in N) when it had 10W-40 but for increased protection against wear.. why not?

sph17

This should be fine for the summer, but you may have starting problems in Boston in the winter with a 20w-50 oil. You may want to switch back to a 10W-30 or 10W-40 in the late Fall.

In the old days there was only single weight oils. As oil gets hot, it gets thinner. An oil that starts out "thick" like a 50 weight oil, as it gets hot thins out to what a 0 weight (or less) is cold.

A 5w-30 weight oil has additives that resist "thining out" as it gets hot. It starts out like a "cold" single weight 5 and as it gets hot, it acts like a "hot" 30 weight oil. All the time, as it is getting hot, it still is "thining" out or decreasing in viscosity, just not as much as a single weight oil does.

If you change from a virgin petrolium based oil to a synthetic oil, the superior detergents in the synthetic oil may disloged "false oil plugs" that keep your gaskets from leaking. This happended to me twice before with older MBs, so I do not change TO synthetic. I have never had much luck with the "Stop Oil Leak" products that try to expand the gaskets, or try to block the leaks.

GDawgC220

I'll most likely have it changed in Oct...I usually do about 1000 miles / month, summer usually a little more so definitely before winter the oil will be changed

michakaveli

Just some more questions concerning the oil weights...

Just picked up a '96 C220. Runs great and excellent highway milage. The oil based upon records has been changed religously every 3000 miles. I want to run Mobil 1. I'm curious as to what weight I should purchase.

I looked at the AllData info and all they tell you is that 5w-30 or 40 is recommended. IT seems as if they recommend this weight for all the MB engines? Is this true. I'm going to be performing an oil change within this next week and was curious as to those that do run synthetic, what weight is recommended for all-year use. I run Mobil Delvac 1 all year round in my E300 and based upon oil analysis results it's just fine.

Technically I could use Delvac 1 in the C220 as well since it is rated for gasoline and diesel engines.

Any thoughts guys?

BTW. What do you guys get for highway mileage in your C220's?

sph17

Someone on some past forum said that the Mobil Delvac 1 was the only Mobil oil he/she would reccomend. European Castrol was also highly reccomended by some.

69chevelle

I was advised that Mobile 0-55 weight was only to be used in my vehicle. Just wondering how much a oil change costs for a mercedes? I know they have to suck it out with a syphon because of no drain plug but is there any cheaper way to do it myself?

BenzMan1

Stealership charges 125.00 I do it myself and oil and filter cost about 50.00.

BrabusCClass

Hmm. I use Kendall GT+3 20-50w in all my MB's and Porsche.

michakaveli

Anyone know what tool is needed to remove the oil filter on the C220?