StopTech slotted rotors, Mintex pads, SS lines, Motul RBF 600 finally in.
05-04-2005, 09:54 PM
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StopTech slotted rotors, Mintex pads, SS lines, Motul RBF 600 finally in.
Finally got a time window to install StopTech slotted rotors, Mintex pads, StopTech stainless steel-braided brake lines and put Motul RBF 600 brake fluid in. Below are some photos and comments.
1. When replacing brake lines, always disconnect them from the solid metal brake line first, then from the caliper body. As soon as you disconnect either end, plug it with a rubber plug (all replacement kits have plugs included). Use a rag on the floor to catch brake fluid spills (inevitable). Tools needed: open end wrenches 14mm & 11mm (for the brake lines), 9mm (for the bleed screws).
Tighten the hose to the caliper to 18nm and the hose to the solid line to 14nm, per MB.
2. When removing rotors, be careful about removing the locking bolt (T40) that is used to secure the rotor to the hub. On one of the disks it was overtightened (by the dealer, BTW), and would not move even after applying WD-40. I ended up stripping the head and had to use a Dremmel tool to cut a groove across and a thick steel flat-head screwdriver with a hammer - it would not even turn otherwise. While not a big deal, it would have helped if I had bought a few spare ones at the dealer beforehand. Now the new disk does not have one, but it is OK as the disk is still properly pressed to the hub by the wheel lug bolts.
3. Since I was replacing everything, I first disconnected the brake line ends that connect to the solid lines, then removed the calipers with the old lines still attached. Then I removed and discarded the old brake pads and compressed the pistons using a large C-clamp. Having the lines attached helped, as when you press the piston back into the cylinder, the brake fluid trapped in the caliper gets expelled through the hose. I used a pile of rags to catch the spill. You will be surprised how much of it will go out.
4. Remove rust from the hubs prior to installing new rotors - there is a lot of it there! I used a thin wood chisel with a sharp edge to scrape large chunks of rust off, then brass brush to clean the rest. Once the hub is clean, lightly coat it with proper grease (I used "hi-temp disk brake grease" that I always use for all brake jobs). This will prevent future rust build-up and will make it easier to remove the rotor when the time comes.
5. When putting a new rotor on, make sure it sits flush to the hub - use a rubber mallet to seat it properly with a few light taps around the rotor head before you secure it with a locking bolt (tighten it to 10 nm, per MB).
6. When bleeding the brake system, always observe the order: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and end with the one closest to one. The order, therefore, is: Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front.
I used a power bleeder that is a breeze to use - don't even want to think about old days when I had to use a "traditional" 2-person procedure with lots of pedal pumps and countless bleed screw open-close cycles.
The first caliper took a surprisingly long time to bleed (over 15 minutes) and over a quart of brake fluid. The other three, to the contrary, got done in under 3 minutes each. I guess, during brake line replacement I had introduced a lot of air into the system. When doing the bleeding, make sure you wait enough when you think that there is no more air coming out - give it at least a minute observing no air bubbles coming out.
1. When replacing brake lines, always disconnect them from the solid metal brake line first, then from the caliper body. As soon as you disconnect either end, plug it with a rubber plug (all replacement kits have plugs included). Use a rag on the floor to catch brake fluid spills (inevitable). Tools needed: open end wrenches 14mm & 11mm (for the brake lines), 9mm (for the bleed screws).
Tighten the hose to the caliper to 18nm and the hose to the solid line to 14nm, per MB.
2. When removing rotors, be careful about removing the locking bolt (T40) that is used to secure the rotor to the hub. On one of the disks it was overtightened (by the dealer, BTW), and would not move even after applying WD-40. I ended up stripping the head and had to use a Dremmel tool to cut a groove across and a thick steel flat-head screwdriver with a hammer - it would not even turn otherwise. While not a big deal, it would have helped if I had bought a few spare ones at the dealer beforehand. Now the new disk does not have one, but it is OK as the disk is still properly pressed to the hub by the wheel lug bolts.
3. Since I was replacing everything, I first disconnected the brake line ends that connect to the solid lines, then removed the calipers with the old lines still attached. Then I removed and discarded the old brake pads and compressed the pistons using a large C-clamp. Having the lines attached helped, as when you press the piston back into the cylinder, the brake fluid trapped in the caliper gets expelled through the hose. I used a pile of rags to catch the spill. You will be surprised how much of it will go out.
4. Remove rust from the hubs prior to installing new rotors - there is a lot of it there! I used a thin wood chisel with a sharp edge to scrape large chunks of rust off, then brass brush to clean the rest. Once the hub is clean, lightly coat it with proper grease (I used "hi-temp disk brake grease" that I always use for all brake jobs). This will prevent future rust build-up and will make it easier to remove the rotor when the time comes.
5. When putting a new rotor on, make sure it sits flush to the hub - use a rubber mallet to seat it properly with a few light taps around the rotor head before you secure it with a locking bolt (tighten it to 10 nm, per MB).
6. When bleeding the brake system, always observe the order: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and end with the one closest to one. The order, therefore, is: Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front.
I used a power bleeder that is a breeze to use - don't even want to think about old days when I had to use a "traditional" 2-person procedure with lots of pedal pumps and countless bleed screw open-close cycles.
The first caliper took a surprisingly long time to bleed (over 15 minutes) and over a quart of brake fluid. The other three, to the contrary, got done in under 3 minutes each. I guess, during brake line replacement I had introduced a lot of air into the system. When doing the bleeding, make sure you wait enough when you think that there is no more air coming out - give it at least a minute observing no air bubbles coming out.
Last edited by vadim; 05-04-2005 at 11:19 PM. Reason: adding/correcting info
05-04-2005, 11:10 PM
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C230K Coupe/Orion/C4/C5/CD/AMG Spoiler/V60/TeleAid, 2 MGB's
Vadim, nice write up....
Do your new brakes feel better than the original rotors? I was really tempted to go for a Brembo kit, but wasn't sure if I'd be trading the coupe or keeping it at the time. Needless to say, the brake pads were toast and had to be done, so one way or the other, it was necessary.
Side note: after a rebuild on my E's front end (warranty) and some other fixes at the dealer, that car feels ...almost...perfect. But I still want to trade one or the other in. I just haven't decided what the replacement will be.
(maybe both on an SL? :-) )
Do your new brakes feel better than the original rotors? I was really tempted to go for a Brembo kit, but wasn't sure if I'd be trading the coupe or keeping it at the time. Needless to say, the brake pads were toast and had to be done, so one way or the other, it was necessary.
Side note: after a rebuild on my E's front end (warranty) and some other fixes at the dealer, that car feels ...almost...perfect. But I still want to trade one or the other in. I just haven't decided what the replacement will be.
(maybe both on an SL? :-) )
05-04-2005, 11:28 PM
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Thanks, Rick! It is too early to say whether the new brakes feel better, as I have not yet bedded them in. Bedding-in involves 2 series of 10 consecutive rapid decelerations from 60 mph to 10 mph with a cool-down break of 15 minutes between the series. Don't want to do it on a busy public road around here (traffic all the time - everywhere you go). Shall do so on an empty road over the coming weekend.
But once it is done, I am sure it will feel much better. In fact, I have copycatted Tom's setup, and I know that he can't stop praising it.
But once it is done, I am sure it will feel much better. In fact, I have copycatted Tom's setup, and I know that he can't stop praising it.
05-06-2005, 02:34 PM
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1959 220S / 1979 230 G / 2002 A210 AMG / 2003 C320 SC / 2004.5 C320 SS / 2005 ML350 SE / 2008 smart
awesome write-up ! We'll definitely keep this handy for when I change my pads to MINTEX or PORTERFIELDS (haven't decided yet). Also, will put in SS lines during that time. On the rear, thinking of going with the CLK55 AMG rear brake system, as that fits just swell on my set-up.
Nicely done, and thanks for the tips and pointing out the possible glitch-points to watch out for.
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
Nicely done, and thanks for the tips and pointing out the possible glitch-points to watch out for.
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
