C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

What adapter do I need to run a sub amp?

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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 01:15 PM
  #26  
electromethod's Avatar
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Is that a sealed box or is it ported? Quite frankly it sounds to me like you need to put another sub in .... seems like you want more bass and unfortunately it's already at max capacity. Ya know..... People are too often drawn to brand names thinking it will be incredible, when in reality they could be happier spending it on a nice package within their budget. FYI... crutchfield has the Infinity Reference 10's on sale 90 bucks for two... they handle something like 200-250 rms. You throw two of those in a sealed isobaric chamber, pick up a class D amp for another 150-300 dollars and it will be loud and clear, all for under 500 bucks. I have done this for at least a dozen people over the years, the most recent being my g/f. Everyone is happy and "impressed with the sq."
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 01:23 PM
  #27  
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First time when I added subs to the stock system, I ran 4 gauge to trunk via the grommets available behind the battery. There is a great thread on here from few years back that goes into detail about it. My only advice is that 4 gauge is the biggest size you can sqeeze through(force through is more liek it), without drilling through. I took apart the trunk, sounded down a panel and grounded there. Tapped into sub line from rear driver side door sill and tapped the fuse in trunk (don't remember which one but it's on here so use search) for a remote line. FYI it sounded great.... but I still ended up putting in a new HU because stock wasn't cutting it with the rest of speakers in cabin.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 01:27 PM
  #28  
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I think he means stay away from Chains like CC and BB because they are subpar. In essence, you end up paying more for less. Reputable shops can work within a budget and make you happy. After all, they rely on word of mouth tremendously. Try to make your posts a little clearer with proper spelling too . Good luck
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 06:31 PM
  #29  
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Ya 4 gauge is the biggest u can fit through that grommet and ground straight to the chassis. L7 with 500rms is loud, my friend use L7 with 500rms from his Audison amp and it get a pretty high SPL reading, loudness is subjective really, but sub doesn't need tremendous amount of power to reach full excursion and get loud.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by W0n6_3d4n
Ya 4 gauge is the biggest u can fit through that grommet and ground straight to the chassis. L7 with 500rms is loud, my friend use L7 with 500rms from his Audison amp and it get a pretty high SPL reading, loudness is subjective really, but sub doesn't need tremendous amount of power to reach full excursion and get loud.
Is it a 15 inch sub though? Cone space will make up the difference. Sounds dirty imho but some people care more for the spl rather than the sq. I know that when I was running 3 10w6's back around 6-7 years ago that it was clean. I knew a cat that had three of the 15's and it was LOUDER (which was nuts considering I lost hearing in one ear for 2 months) but his was not as clean.

Right now I am dissappointed with the MBQuarts I just put in..... FYI... steer clear of them guys... I am giving them another week to break in but as of now they are quite lacking. Can't return them since the zee blonde got them for me as a suprise gift so I am screwed. I would have never bought them myself. Help me guys... Somebody want to steal them?
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by electromethod
Is it a 15 inch sub though? Cone space will make up the difference. Sounds dirty imho but some people care more for the spl rather than the sq. I know that when I was running 3 10w6's back around 6-7 years ago that it was clean. I knew a cat that had three of the 15's and it was LOUDER (which was nuts considering I lost hearing in one ear for 2 months) but his was not as clean.

Right now I am dissappointed with the MBQuarts I just put in..... FYI... steer clear of them guys... I am giving them another week to break in but as of now they are quite lacking. Can't return them since the zee blonde got them for me as a suprise gift so I am screwed. I would have never bought them myself. Help me guys... Somebody want to steal them?
Now where is your unlocked car parked? In my driveway?
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 11:16 PM
  #32  
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he had 12 inch, L7 is not known for it's SQ.
Try Dynaudio it's a warm sounding driver and i'm very pleased with it, tweeter can do better but and it's one of toughest driver around, very hard to damage even though i give them twice the rated power. Another option will be Eton Adventure, but some people dislike the tweeter. I've also heard good thing with Rainbow sets. If u willing to DIY, buy a Scanspeak Tweeter (awesome clarity yet still laid back) and Seas driver then run them active.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 06:17 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by DACHIGGA
Just curious, how does that sub stay in place BTW?

Thats an easy one, I just got 4-5 small squares of velcro which are sticky backed and stuck the stiff (with the little hooks) side to the bottom of the sub, they attach to the material that is on the boot floor so the sub never moves. And when you want to take it out, you just use a little bit of force and its out.


Zishan
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 06:29 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by electromethod
Is that a sealed box or is it ported? Quite frankly it sounds to me like you need to put another sub in .... seems like you want more bass and unfortunately it's already at max capacity. Ya know..... People are too often drawn to brand names thinking it will be incredible, when in reality they could be happier spending it on a nice package within their budget. FYI... crutchfield has the Infinity Reference 10's on sale 90 bucks for two... they handle something like 200-250 rms. You throw two of those in a sealed isobaric chamber, pick up a class D amp for another 150-300 dollars and it will be loud and clear, all for under 500 bucks. I have done this for at least a dozen people over the years, the most recent being my g/f. Everyone is happy and "impressed with the sq."
The box is a sealed enclosure. Trust me I dont need another sub, I can set it so that the bass is annoyingly high, almost making my seat a massage chair, but the only problem as I said was that all the bass comes from the back and I just dont like that.

Zishan
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 07:47 AM
  #35  
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power wire

how do u get the power wire into the car ?? is there an easy place to run it through??
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:11 AM
  #36  
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It can be fixed with Time allignment, but switching the phase of the subwoofer might do the trick, it does to me. You also need to set the Low pass quite low, as human ear cannot distinguish where the sound is coming from below 100hz. Some SQ car set the LP at 60Hz. I set mine around 80Hz.

To get the power wire inside the cabin, look closely behind the battery, there's a vertical grommet, to reach it from inside the cabin u need to remove the kick panel cover and look up. An easy way is to follow Mercedes original cabling routing and go from there.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:17 AM
  #37  
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Do i have to take out the battery ??
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #38  
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yes u have to unless u have mini hand .
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:30 AM
  #39  
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if i disconect the battery will i see any check engine lights or anything like that ?
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:48 AM
  #40  
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Raul: There is an awesome thread on here but it's old so it might take some searching. He is right about taking out battery and pulling the grommet out. You will need a torx screwdriver kit for under dash passenger side. The rest is pretty straight forward. Believe it or not, grounding out the trunk was the biggest PITA out of everything, due to all the little clips etc. Are you going to just add subs or redo the system? You have to just follow procedures for resetting windows, etc but other than that I have never had any permanent errors come up. Let me know if you get stuck..... I am in Orlando every week so I might be able to give you a hand.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #41  
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at this point im just adding a sub. eventually ill add another amp for the mids and highs since the stock radio everytime i put up the volume the tweeters fade. but i want to keeping my stock radio
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 02:25 PM
  #42  
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yah... that's what i told myself at the beginning.... :p :p I thought I would keep the steering controls and changer. Looking back, I wish I had changed it all out from the getgo. Just swapping out the HU solves the problem with the speakers in the cabin, big time. THe stock speakers are just underpowered. Couple of people told me the same thing but I didn't listen to them.... now I owe them an apology.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 02:49 PM
  #43  
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did u have to buy an adapter kit for the dash or something for the gap that the stock radio will leave ?
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #44  
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yah... there are 2 adaptors available. One made by Metra and one by Scosche. I just picked the metra one up off of Ebay. I have a thread with my installed pics....... fills in the gap perfectly. Installing the HU was easier than adding subs... lol. Plus if you do it together, you can run your rca leads to the trunk for the subs, thus why I wish I had done the HU and subs at same time .
I still have to remove factory changer and put in the new one, as well as finish installing the aux inputs. Blah.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 07:46 PM
  #45  
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Or u can custom made the mounting piece for aftermarket HU, my friend did this to me using a piece of MDF and work briliantly and i can swap HU at my will without taking the dash apart. Let me find a picture.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 07:50 PM
  #46  
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There u go, it work perfectly with Slim face HU, i have Denon now and it has fat face and look a bit off.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 07:54 PM
  #47  
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With Denon, look stock eh? :p
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