Whoa....that IS different. Mine has a clip sort of like a pager or cell phone belt clip which holds a double suction cup "bracket". I removed that by taking out a screw and twisting it out of its mount. Velcro'd it to a cheap bracket ant voila!! Anyway...does the new style pivot all the way around or is it stationary at the top?

Looks like you could just rotate the new style bracket around so it will fit...but I could be wrong.

 

Rick, the arm pivots all the way around, and also pulls "away" from the unit to a certain extent. I've got it rotated 180 degrees (up), and pressed toward the compass body. When I was tinkering, this is the only way I could get it in while allowing the ashtray cover to close. I think the problem is the large pivot which takes up room in the cavity. And, of course, I don't even have the suction cup attached at this point. That's why I was thinking of trying to remove the arm and attaching a "cheap suction cup device" as you say to hold it in place. Do you think the type of suction thing you have would still attach on the back near the bottom, below the pivot? Anyway, here's another picture from the side showing the pivot.

 

Mine doesn't have any of that "pivot" stuff...it's pretty flat on the back, except for the 2 little holders where the clip was fitted. I have a 2" velcro strip that holds it to the bracket. I suppose you could drill out the bracket to fit that pivot through....but can you take out that screw that holds the pivot on? Also....what are those grey round covers for?

 

The larger cover is the battery compartment, and the smaller one covers the socket for the cig. lighter adapter. Another guy who got the compass said he took out the small screw but the arm didn't come off. I'm going to try it. The pivot point will still be there, but I think the arm should be able to be removed. If you check the picture again, you might be able to see how the arm attaches with a "cup-like" end which fits atop the pivot and attaches with that screw. You can notice 4 ridges on that attachment point. You can turn it one way or the other to lock or unlock the pivot so the arm stays where you want it.

Where's that mechanical engineer MB-BOB when you need him!

 

hmmm...mine uses a AAA battery...I go through about 3 a year, so it's not too bad. My dc adapter was a 90 degree connector that plugged in on the squared side...I opted for battery power in my old car and lost the damned thing somewhere between moving to my house and reshuffling all my stuff.

 

MarkL: I'd be really interested to know if you were able to remove the arm.

I haven't had the time to work on finding the best way to fit the co-pilot these days...Kind f frustrating. For now it's sitting on my windshield -lower left corner- kinda cheesy looking but functional

 

MarkL, I'm especially impressed that you can take a roll of 35mm to the store and get the photo CD back the same day? (My Walgreen's wants up to a week.) What am I doing wrong?

Anyway, I've been looking at your pictures, which are GREAT, of course. I assume that when you reattach the suction cups and rotate the arm to point down, that the pivot doesn’t provide enough angle to suction the compass onto the ashtray floor and close the door, right? That would stabilize the unit in place, while a 1/2" x 4" strip of old mouse pad rubber under the lowest horizontal edge of the compass would keep the unit from rattling.

For the moment, I have my Sharper Image Special mounted to the windshield of another car, set up for an over-the-mountains trip for the Christmas holidays (gotta play with that altimeter), so I haven't toyed with it in the C320 ashtray, yet.

The back of the (Sharper Image) V6000 unit is completely different (much less sophisticated) than yours. If I understand Rick's description, I think mine is more like his. It comes with TWO brackets. Identical... I guess for use in two vehicles.

For lack of pictures, I’ve attached a crude 2-view drawing to illustrate. The back of the unit (outline-top) snaps into a cradle (green). Molded as part of the cradle is a semi-circular, vertical flange (blue-lower view) that serves as the attachment to the suction cup arm. It’s a one axis (vertical) adjustment, so for windshield use, it must be in the center of the windshield. (Dumb, that's why your swivel mount intrigues me.)

My idea is to remove the arm from the cradle flange entirely by removing the single, phillips head screw and pulling the arm away from the flange. Then, I’ll fashion a length of solid wire attached to a suction cup. Bolt the wire (red) to the flange on the cradle, using the leftover arm attachment point. More likely, I will drill a small hole below the attachment point and use a small bolt and nut to fasten the wire to the flange. See Para. two for the rest. The mouse pad rubber (black) cushions the bottom edge of the assembly from rattling.

(I find old mouse pads great for several uses... Peel the slick surface from the rubber backing, and you are left with a two-sided rubber sheet, great for opening pickle jars, etc. Plus, I have some cut to the size of my Sprint PCS Flip Phone. The phone sits on the sheet, which sits on the wood console trim... the phone stays in one place and the wood is protected from scratches.)

Once I can test all this, I will take some pictures and post. Boy, this thread has been fun!

 

MB-BOB, thanks!
I usually go to Ritz Camera which is in a mall about 10 minutes from my house. I've been going there for several years and know a couple of people there. But, for anyone, they usually can do 1 hour processing for 35mm, and about 1.5 hour turnaround to include the CD. This time, they must have been rushing because I can see dust "things" on the CD "prints". You should be able to find 1-hour quality lab I'm sure. Do you have MotoFoto? I hear they're pretty good though I haven't tried them. For a 36 shot roll, it cost me about $13 for double prints + $7.99 (flat fee) for the CD. I have a "frequent flyer" card w/ them so there's some discount.

There was a suction cup at the end of the arm which I removed. The problem was that with the pivot and the arm/suction cup, it was just too deep to fit inside the cavity. Right now, the compass is just sitting in the space with a paper towel "wedge" on the right side to keep it steady. It doesn't rattle at all, and it has a soft rubber "band" that runs around the perimeter of the unit. I'm going to experiment a little more, but I'm thinking of checking out the Radio Shack bracket which may be more compact than my arm/suction cup combo. I might be able to remove the arm and attach the other bracket.

Your diagram is interesting, but I'm not sure there's as much depth in the ashtray cavity as you might think. And, if I remember, its sloped a bit which may get in the way.

So, your wife let you open your present early so you can use it on your trip?

MMUTLU:
I'm going to play around with the arm again and I'll let you know what happens. I fit mine in the ashtray by removing the suction cups. You can do this by gently lifting the plastic brace which holds it in place near the bottom of the arm. Then if you rotate the arm around 180 degress, you can get it into the ashtray space.

RICK:
It now uses 2 stacked wafer type batteries.

 

OK guys, I was just out washing my car (it's about 44 degrees ), and after I finished, I played around some more w/ the compass. I think I've reached my "final answer".

I've decided that the arm helps w/ the angle and I'm leaving it on (with the suction cups removed). I'm not going to attempt to use a suction cup, I think a small piece of velcro will hold it. Let me explain...

I've found that the back and forth positioning in the ashtray cavity (from the front) and the angle of the unit (tilting back from vertical) can affect the clearance while opening and closing the ashtray door. I think the arm in a certain position helps attain the correct position. I'll describe the position of the arm on my compass. If you view the unit from the back, the arm is in the approximate 2 o'clock position, and pressed toward the unit. So, the corner of the arm near the top edge of the compass basically makes contact w/ the upper edge of the compass back. Then, when you position the compass in the cavity it sits at about a 30 degree angle. I gently closed the door part way to check for clearance, moving the compass back or forward as needed. My plan is to install a small piece of velcro on the left (flat) side and maybe the bottom edge. But, the width of the velcro on the bottom may affect the clearance so I'm not sure until I try it.

Mmutlu, why don't you try this and see if it fits as well as mine? MB-BOB, you've described a different back so your plan may be good for yours. Good luck, and let me know what happens!

Believe it or not, my "hand me down" computer doesn't have a drawing application! Here's a crude drawing showing the arm position from the back of the compass.

(EDIT - the drawing didn't align correctly after I posted)

 

MarkL: Yes it fits with the positioning of the arm you have described. However that's all it does! Since it doesn't have enough clearance it touches the ashtray cover everytime you open it -or close it- You have to kinda lift it up which I think ruins the whole show. So I think placing a velcro on the bottom will not help the clearance at all...and a velcro on the left side would not be strong of a hold for the compass when opening and closing the ashtray cover.

I think I am going to try to find a way to take the arm off so the compass will have more space to be positioned in the cavity.

Does anyone else have the heartland.com version of Co-pilot and using it in the ashtray cavity?

 

I'm just guessing at this, because I have an older version....
It looks like there are 2 screws and 2 pressure clips holding the back case to the front. If you remove those screws and release the clips, you might be able to get the retaining screw loose and remove the entire mounting arm assembly. This probably won't remove the ballin the rotating socket, but it should give that extra 1/8 inch of clearance you guys need. Sorry I recommended these things. I didn't know they had changed them so radically.

 

Guys, I've been busy for the last day or 2, so haven't checked the board.

Rick, that's OK -- I still think the compass is cool and I've almost got it set up.

mmutlu - my ashtray cover was touching if the compass was either set too far back or too far forward. There's only a small range where it works OK. You're right about the left side velcro, not enough. My latest idea (haven't had time to go to Home Depot again), is to simply get a small piece of double-sided tape for the bottom, should be thinner than the 2 pieces of velcro. Let me know if you get the arm off, I may also try that again.

Hey, happy holidays too!

 

I kinda gathered all the knowledge came out of this thread and applied it to my ongoing compass installation improvement activity!
First I removed the rubber band - believe me it looks so much nicer without that gray thing around-. This gave me enough room for clearance when opening/closing the ashtray cover.
Arm is still attached and positioned at 2 o'clock -looking from the back-
I used a small stripe cut out of an old mouse-pad -width of the compass- with double sided 3M tape on its both surfaces. Stuck the stripe on the bottom of the cavity. Then placed the compass kind of behind the stripe with about 30 degrees angle. The compass is also partially stuck on the stripe enough to prevent any possible movement -the compass touches both the bottom of the cavity and the stripe-.
Anyway now I'm happy

 

I made up a cradle using a metal coat hanger and the suction cups that came with the unit, but the suction cups wouldn't hold a grip on the semi-textured ashtray floor. Hmmmm!

Back to the drawing board... I WILL make this work!

 

...want to check on the mouse pad thing.

 

Eureka! My compass is now sitting securely in the ashtray. I used an old credit card that I could cut with regular scissors. I made two brackets on the pattern below. I've included the base measurement in case this posts smaller/larger than expected. The angle for compass is 34 degrees. This angle keeps the lid from contacting the compass while closing.

If you use this template, simply tape it to your compass (one on each side) then test fit in the ashtray. Move the compass up or down on the 34 degree plane til it sets right without rubbing.

For a permanent fit, I attached the homemade brackets to the clip-on bracket that came with the compass (arm removed) using a hot-melt glue gun. I then used gaffer's tape (black duct tape) to attached the brackets to the ash tray floor. I'll post some pictures once I get them developed.

 

how many post to put a compass in an ash tray, ha must be a world record. glad you all figured it out, now why need a compass? just kidding.. time for another drink...
Tom

 

Howdy Folks:
I want to get in on this challenging installation. (Normally, I would drill, saw, cut , or etc. but since this is my first MB, I want to leave it "untouched"). Who has the best price/shipping and turn around time on the Co-Pilot (I'm in NC)?
Also, my ashtray door opens in about 1/2 second. Is there anyway to slow it down to say 2-3 seconds? I am thinking that the extra delay would be more impressive. (just a thought)
Thanks and keep the info coming,

 

Gene, a couple of us got the Co-Pilot from heartlandamerica.com. Cost was $49.99 + shipping. But, it took mine about 10 days to get here. BTW, apparently it's not called Co-Pilot anymore -- it doesn't have the name on the front like the older picture showed.

Hmmm MB-BOB. Maybe you could manufacture the brackets for all of us for a nominal fee . But your unit is different from the "Co-Pilot", right? I don't know if we have that clip-on bracket you're mentioning. mmutlu got his set-up using a strip from an old mouse pad that he secured to the ashtray floor. Anyway, those pics would be interesting.

 

The idea of using a credit card for material was to find something of sufficient strength to support the unit... and, to suggest a common material that anyone can use with simple scissors. I do have a metal machining shop, but there's no need to over-engineer this project.

The bumps and curves on the back of the various units is different, but (I think) the basic shape of the upper parts of the units is the same in shape, if not size. The brackets I propose could be attached to the flat backside of any of the many units we've discussed in this thread, I think... I just chose to attach my brackets to the mount, so that I can pop the unit out to change batteries as needed.

The only challenge remaining is figuring how to power the unit with 12-V power rather than batteries. I called PNI and they said the aux power input is straight 12V, if I can get around their proprietary sized connector. (It is a different shape than what you can buy at Radio Shack.) Anyway, I have to understand how to disassemble the wood console with absolute safety to the parts before I tackle that project, when the weather turns warmer.

This has been a fun project. I've learned a lot from all of you who have participated in this thread.

 

OK Folks:
I finally got my Co-Pilot installed. I moved the Cam lock knob and strut to the right side, and imbedded the brass nut in the back cover lip at the battery. (Cam still works against right edge of unit. Velcro on left edge, double velcro on bottom edge in order to shim it out, and velcro on bottom of right side strut. I think I have room behind unit for AA or AAA batteries. (Has anyone tried that? Seems that I could use the 180 sec. backlight mode then!)
MB-Bob how is the hard wiring coming?

Here are pics from driver's view and of the cam lock:

 

Tried to post yesterday, but the site would not allow it, again...

DD13, I'm still working on the hard wire. When I called PNI, they said it's a straight across 12-V wire, IF I can duplicate their proprietary connector plug. Indeed the rubber cladding on a standard power plug will not fit the keyed slot on the unit. (Nasty PNI people, just pandering for their HW kit!)

But, I'm usually never defeated on these things, especially when the manufacturer goes out of its way to make it difficult, so I'm looking into options, such as filing down their keyed plastic mount so that a standard connector fits.

Otherwise, my only car thing this weekend was to clean/condition my leather inserts. They DO get dirtier faster than the non-leather bits.

 

Interesting. For me, the MB-Tex gets dirtier first. I've cleaned the bolsters several times and never touched the leather inserts yet!

 

Well, better late than never (I guess). Here's a picture of the mount for my V6000 Compass. The suction cup arm has been removed from the mount and the arms fashioned from an old credit card.

 

...And, here's how the Compass fits into the mount...