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The number on the sidewall is the maximum that the tire will allow but is not the optimal for your car. Because all cars are different weights the pressure has to be adjusted accordingly. Imagine if our car was 1000lb lighter our pressures would be much lower for the same size of tire.
Higher pressure does not equal better handling. F1 cars have a pressure around 8 to 14psi.
By adjusting pressures you can dial in more understeer or more oversteer
Running at very high pressures will have a much harsher ride.
Plus, since I'm not on OEM tires anymore, adjustments needed to be made.
Plus, since I'm not on OEM tires anymore, adjustments needed to be made.
You could always do the chalk method of determining the correct pressure, and old racer trick
Trust you have 225/45/17 & 245/40/17s.
My door jamb sticker recommends 32/35 and 36/39, contingent, of course, upon the vehicle's load.
The fuel door sticker insists upon 29/35 and 35/42. However, the pressures must be adjusted (higher) for "continuous driving above 130 MPH..." Wish I could pull off those maneuvers more frequently!
The operator's manual states that ..."pressures listed for light loads are minimum values offering high driving comfort. Increased inflation pressures for heavy loads produce favorable handling characteristics with lighter loads and are perfectly permissible. The ride of the vehicle, however, will be somewhat harder..."
I concur with many on this forum that you should start with the higher pressures, and adjust them accordingly to suit your driving style.
Welcome to MBWorld!
Last edited by splinter; Feb 16, 2007 at 10:53 PM.
A digital pressure gauge is not more accurate. A calibrated gauge is more accurate. Most digital gauges cannot compensate for altitude pressure variations. A $ 30 Flaig gauge is perfect for the glove box. They are German made, read in Lb/sq-in and Bar, and are available from our sponsor Performance Products. I have used this gauge for ages, and they remain accurate for decades. With the price of a set of tires around $ 1,000. one of these is very cost effective.
http://www.performanceproducts.com/p...aig+Tire+Gauge
You can increase the life of your tires and rims by not filling them with air. Nitrogen is in tires of aircraft, race cars, and Costco shoppers. Look for the green valve caps, those tires are filled with inert Nitrogen.

On my C230 Coupe, it's recommended to run 28 psi front, 32 psi rear. Since I feel that there's already too much understeer stock, I ran 32 psi all around. But since installing John Goodlad's C32 sway bars, I've increased the tire pressure to 35 psi all around.
Bob
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
On my C230 Coupe, it's recommended to run 28 psi front, 32 psi rear. Since I feel that there's already too much understeer stock, I ran 32 psi all around. But since installing John Goodlad's C32 sway bars, I've increased the tire pressure to 35 psi all around.
Bob
Last edited by jevsays; May 31, 2013 at 09:35 AM.

Also, I know that my fronts always look like they're flatter than they really are, especially if the wheels are turned.
Handling seems great...no accidental drifting(lol) no screeching sounds when turning... front tires look very slightly underinflated when just sitting there though.
Nearly all miles are "city" even though im going like 55...and always in Houston.



