vadim

Ok folks, first I must apologize to all waiting for my feedback since I promised it about 2 weeks ago.

I needed this time to assess all aspects of the pulley upgrade results and to let my excitement subside a little - otherwise it would have been rather biased

First, impressions. The car now simply can't be driven slowly. It revs so happily, I have a silly grin on my face almost all the time - when there is open space, that is. It has turned the 6th gear from a cruising gear into a pulling one - my seat-o-the-pants accelerometer makes me doubt and visually check if it is in 6th gear indeed.

An S4 tried to pull from me at 40mph the other day- and couldn't!!! I had no doubt he would eventually have pulled away at higher speeds, but I stayed with him very authoritatively all the way up to 70mph, when we both had to slow down as we ran out of road. That was a big WOW! Never thought the coupe could touch this league. OTOH, maybe he wasn't too good a driver, but still - he was trying...

Now, the car feels a little rougher (my settings are "Base" ignition and "Stage 2" fuel), and I seem to feel this even through the shifter knob. No fault codes have been thrown, though. Not sure what this means, maybe I should try different fuel/ignition settings and compare? Or maybe it's the tires - they tend to roughen the ride as they wear off.

The added power made it evident that the car needs a stiffer suspension. In its stock form it squats, dives and leans too much. So - sway bars on the way, springs haven't been chosen yet.

Supercharger growl is more pronounced now at all speeds, including idle. I like it. It somewhat masks that characteristic B&S noise.

Now, installation. It wasn't as easy as I had expected.
First, removed the stock pulley, no problem... Aligned the key so it was at the top; lubed the ASP pulley, tried to slide it on - no go!
I could only push it as far as the lead-in section allowed... Then the lip that you can feel with a nail would prevent it from getting any further... (By contrast, the stock pulley would side on and off without any problem, still fitted tightly when in position).

At first I thought that the key groove wasn't deep enough, and tried to enlarge its entrance with a small file - still no go... In process, to my horror, I found that the pulley got slightly reamed near the groove... Anyway, after I realized that it wasn't the groove that was preventing the pulley from getting on, I used fine sandpaper to smoothen the lip, and did a few iterations of that between attempts to slide it on... Finally it felt like the pulley moved past the lip point, the groove found the key, and although I couldn't slide the pulley any further by hand (despite heavy lubrication with graphite lube), I used the bolt to slide it in position. It worked - the pulley looked true, no wobbling.

Whoever decides to install an aftermarket crankshaft pulley - good luck! You'll love the result, but be careful with installation. I used a nice step-by-step manual created by Buellwinkle, for which I'd like to thank him.

QC1

Sounds good, where you said "my settings are "Base" ignition and "Stage 2" fuel," Where do you get these changed? At the dealhership? Do they need to be changed? Also would a dealership install the pulley? And last how much does the ASP pulley cost? Sorry for all the question but im very interested in buying since you seem very happy with yours.

vadim

Yes, my service advisor had no problem whatsoever changing any settings I asked. The tech was great, too. No charge.
Yes, the fuel parameter should be set to Stage 2 or Stage 3, most converge in their opinion on Stage 2 as the optimal one. As for whether a dealership will install the pulley - it depends. There are diametrically opposite reports on this issue by forum members. The ASP pulley can be purchased directly from ASP, for $350 + s/h.

Xeon

that does it..i am gonna order it tomorrow

linh

I didn't have any problem installed kleemann pulley on my Slk and ASP pulley on Buellwinkle. I'm surprised that you have little problem. Btw, the pulley is a press-fit type, so there's no way you can push it all the way in with your hand. The only way to push it all the way in is by tighting the screw.

vadim

It wasn't even that easy. It just wouldn't come on until I sanded off the lip between the lead-in part and the rest of it. As a side note, I could slide the stock pulley on/off with my hands only. I had my neighbor - a professional mechanic - come over and try it. His verdict was the same - something was getting in the way (actually, accompanied by that characterisctic metal-to-metal sound).

Buellwinkle

Could it have been the heat of the crankshaft? It was expanded and the new pulley was cold? Just a thought. My factory pulley was a pain to get off and back on as I've done this twice. I didn't notice much difference between installing the factory pulley vs. the new pulley.

vadim

No, both were about the same temperature.

who_dog

Are you at all worried that you had to file and sand your new pulley? Couldn't that disturb the balance of it at high RPM's and hurt the SC?

vadim

No, I think it's safe enough - it's right near the shaft. The alterations I had done are much smaller in size than the key groove itself. Remember, that crankshaft experiences far more violent disturbances from combustion occuring in the cylinders.

Also, it wouldn't hurt the SC since it is not a SC pulley, but a crankshaft one.

C230 Sport Coup

So, if it's that tight.....
how woould you remove it, as so many people discuss, as in
putting it back stock to maintain the warranty?

If it's on that tight, doesn't sound like it's gonna come off....
guess you'd need a special tool?

What was the total time for install?

C230 Sport Coup

Vadim,
also what were the settings set to before you had them changed?
Stage ? etc.

Buellwinkle

You can use a plasma cutter to take it off. Seriously, I've taken mine off twice and it's the same PITA as the factory pulley. You have to remember that your pulley has been expanding and contracting many times since you owned your car from heat and vibration, it's bound to get a little looser than when new. The ASP pulley was engineer to factory specs of a brand new pulley. It was the same thing with the Kleemann pulley we put in.

But if this is a concern don't worry about it. Each pulley is made to order, just specify how lose you want it, it's your car, have it your way (like Burger King).

avlis

Isn't that why they make gear pullers? Or is there not enough room to use one under there?

vadim

I had tried to experiment with fuel and ignition settings long before I got the pulley. Back then the fuel settings were referred to as "Performance", "Normal" and "Economy" modes in early discussions on this subject. Naturally, I tried the "Performance" mode, which, in fact, is Stage 3. That was subsequently changed to Stage 2 (again, before ASP pulley), and I kept it this way with the pulley, based on the body of knowledge accumulated so far in this forum.

As for the ignition parameter, I had tried RON 93, and then reverted back to Base, where it is now. Again, these changes had been performed before the pulley was installed.
This is a tricky issue, as there is no 100% credible information about the meaning of the numbers each setting is designated by. Some say it's "RON 93" (translates into US 97-98 pump octane rating), others argue that it *is* the US octane number, and "RON" was used in the software by mistake. Moreover, some claim that "Base" actually means "RON 95" and is therefore the best setting to pick. Others counter that Base is for average gasoline, whereas "93" allows for most ignition advance and is therefore the best.

But - all of the above is based on guessing and *some* knowledge of the subject. Not enough facts, though. So, here we are - left to wait until someone steps up and conducts exhaustive tests that would put an end to this eternal argument.

Buellwinkle

To fit a gear puller in there I would imagine that you would have to remove at least the electric fan. The time spent doing that may be more than the time spend using elbow grease. His problem was removing, it was inserting. I guided the pulley in place and used the gear pusher (aka. the pulley bolt) to ease it in place. It didn't take much effort for it to slide in place, didn't bind or anything.

preyx

Extensive dyno testing required, and especially in this case, time IS money...

20FHK02

Wouldn't it be the easiest to get the answer directly from MB? The engineer/programmer/designer who implemented all these ignition and ECU settings must know what they mean.

DCX Engineer

I used the same method and had no problem. I installed my pulley shortly after a 1 hour drive of the car so the crank was quite hot. Total installation time was about 1 hour 15 minutes following Buellwinkle's instructions.

I strongly agree with vadim's statements about acceleration in sixth gear and the need for the car to be driven fast. I haven't had any opportunities for on road testing with other vehicles.

I also have my settings at Stage II and base ignition. I have noticed a rougher idle at startup at reported by vadim and edvpt. I have not noticed any vibration in the gear shifter.

My recommendations: GET A PULLEY, it will be like driving a new car.

vadim

That's not going to happen... Of course it would be awfully nice, but this is proprietary information that only MB insiders would be aware of and certaily not willing to share... Well, unless you kidnap them and then torture in the basement of an MB production plant (Hollywood style, imagine: huge tanks and pipes all over, steam bursting out here and there, etc.) Off to the dyno!

20FHK02

Hahaa!! I see I see~~

Rick

Sounds like a good upgrade...albeit not an easy one. Good luck with it, and put that puppy on a dyno so we can see real wolrd numbers and specs.

Benzer

I see a suggestion of about 35HP increase with the pulley installed. There is no mentioning of any increase in accompanying torque that I know of? Honda & Acura tune their engines to produce more HP yet can barely add any significant torque.

Are we seeing the samething here?

Pls educate me.

Peace

Benzer

Some think that this can be done at the dealer. I called my local MB service department about having them install the pulley for me.

They are not even returning my calls (2)

Peace

KJ-TypeR

Did you know Torque and HP are directly related? Actually, HP is DERIVED from Torque. The dyno measures Torque and by using a simple equation, HP is Calculated.

(Torque x RPM)/5252 = HP

Therefore, if HP is increased, Torque numbers at those RPM's is increased as well