Noisy Air Conditioner ?? Stepper Motor Replacement / Clicking & Hissing




I have two other issues with the HVAC system and I'm wondering I can address them while I have the dash apart:
1. I have the common smelly air conditioning system. I have injected cleaners into the system through the condenser housing as described in the MB Star bulletin. I'm wondering whether there are any other cleaning processes I can employ while the dash is apart.
2. On summer nights after I've run the AC, there are times when it cools down enough to open the windows. When I turn off the AC and do this, the air coming out of the vents seems warmer than it should. Is there another mechanism that could be broken that I need to check?
Thanks
I am at the beginning of my long and arduous process to (possibly) fix my stepper motor/linkage arm. If anyone can advise: my clicking started today whilst driving. It is getting to be winter-time in CLE Ohio and I had to defrost my windows on multiple occasions as I was driving my 05 C240 4M tonight. After turning the defroster on for maybe the 4th time of the drive, the dreaded clicking from the top of the dash began. Once I arrived at my destination, I realized air was not blowing out of the footwell vents from either side (I can hear the air blowing, but the vents must be closed). Tried the HVAC reset and the clicking persisted the whole time as the air was circulating throughout the vents, and air would blow out of the footwells during the reset. Have my footwell stepper motor/linkage arms failed? I only ask because the issue began while defrosting and I did not once turn on the vents for the footwells during the drive. All other vents work, including the defroster vents on the front of the dash. Also, has anyone been successful in replacing a stepper motor by just removing the radio unit? I read somewhere in a thread that it was possible for footwell stepper failures. Thanks in advance.
Do I really need heat on my dang feet? The jury's still out on that.




The really dumb thing about these stepper motors is that they generally don't die from an electrical standpoint. The failure is usually a tooth breaking off in the internal gearbox. Open up a motor and you'll see. I've had 2 motors out of 6 fail on me right now (L footwell, and defroster) and this was the case both times. Go German plastics.
When a 3rd motor fails on me I'm just going to replace the remaining 4, which will hopefully be the last time I have to take the stupid dash apart. Just FYI, the defroster motor is the most inaccessable, and requires removal of both the glove box and upper dash. 
Behind the radio there is the plastic tray the radio slides into. This part has tabs that go behind the trim pieces where the driver and passenger knees are, and those trim pieces cannot be moved or shifted without removing the centre console. Once this thing is out of the way, there is still a piece of foam with plastic backing. I guess you can cut a hole with a knife through this part, but even with everything removed there is still a crossbar or two in the way that severely limits screwdriver access. I imagine it would be difficult if not impossible.
Last edited by slammer111; Oct 12, 2023 at 02:52 AM.
I read up all I could and decided there may be a quicker way. I was trying to get at the stepper that was clicking, the one most forward
under the w/screen. Normally the entire dash has to be freed up to get it out. I didn't want to take out the rest of the w/wiper assy to get at the bolt and big washer hiding down there under the hoses behind the engine.
Under the hood and the w/screen there is a sloping piece of firewall next to the cabin-filter housing. With that out of the way you can actually
feel the stepper in question. So, I used a 2.5 inch drill, the ones you use to cut holes in sheet metal. They come with a drill-bit which gets you started in the
steel and I started the drill at a 90 angle to the firewall and broke through the firewall. I then gently moved the drill into a vertical position and the top of the drill piece was now cutting the firewall at its topmost edge and the drill bit was keeping everything lined up.. Slowly but surely the drill cut down and around until the last little bit could be removed by hand. How long? About seven minutes. I cleaned the edge up with a round file and it looked fine; it can be covered with a piece of sound-proofing pad so it looks original and its there in case it ever needs to be done a second time. Then one can remove the cable and two of the three screws, the first or last one can be reached from inside the car; the stepper comes out of that hole. I will admit to slacking the bolts holding the frame and pressing down inside the car giving enough room to get at the three screws.
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The only problem I ran into in the initial stages was an oversight on my part where I did not know there was a screw above the hood release handle holding the headlamp switch assembly…lost 45 minutes . The other part that I struggled with was getting the cage out that holds the radio and climate control, it’s a black cage. Please note that there are two plastic tabs at the top of it that push through and allow it to hook on to the brace. Under the instruction of one of the blogs they used a large flat screwdriver to push through the holes in the brace and straighten out the tabs that secure the cage the brace.
I did not have any difficulty getting motor 2/15 (footwell flaps) out of the climate control unit. And because of that I realize that it should go in without any modification or force. However, I did spend the better part of two or three hours trying to get the motor and its arm or linkage back in. At the end of the day here’s how I did it;
I’m in Canada and this is a left-hand drive vehicle. So using that as a reference I held the motor in my left hand and pushed it up into position with it lying on its side by going on the left, our driver side, of the brace that is positioned in front of the stepper motor. With my right hand I held the linkage or actuator arm and attached it to the splines or spindle on the motor. I then attached the end of the arm to the linkage from the climate control unit. I then moved the motor and its attached arm down into the small recess in the climate control unit that accepts the arm, a small circular recess behind the brace. Once I figure this out it’s about a five minute job. I hooked up to the climate control unit as they have in the videos and ran through the testing of the flaps, everything was quiet and worked great. I had some difficulty getting the cage or the black shelving unit back into its position so I decided to put it in without putting the tabs through the bracing bar, I just used a pair of pliers to squeeze the tabs then force the shelving unit into place and put some screws in. It worked fine.
I had an SRS code that I have triggered that cleared when everything was back together. I hope this helps everyone. I’m embarrassed to tell you this probably took me 10 to 15 hours to do. I was quoted 10 hours of labor to do the job plus Parts and taxes. I think this would’ve been an $1800-$2000 bill at MERCEDES. I chose not to use a second-hand motor. I bought one locally from a supply store for C$130, there’s just too much labor involved to put a used motor in and have it fail shortly after.
Knowing what I know now I think I could do the job in four hours or less. Hope I’m back to work soon...this mechanic-ing is killing my back and neck!
Here's the video of my dash:
Window, footwell and far left/right corner vents work fine, but the driver/passenger and center vents don't work at all.
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If that's not from the speakers, then it's most likely a broken gear tooth. You're looking at replacing at least one of the motors. However I am unaware of any motors in that area. Are you sure it's not slightly off (0.3m or so) to one side?
There are several reducing gears inside the stepper motors. Based on the speed of the ticks, in your case the broken gear would be one of the "middle" ones instead of the large "final" one that most of us are having problems with.
Last edited by slammer111; Feb 25, 2021 at 06:30 AM.
It might be slightly towards the left (driver) side. Are there any "easier" ways to replace that one?
Also, are all of the stepper motors the same? I mean, do they have the same code etc.?




See post #56 to see where each motor is located.
As nobody else can see your car, you'll have to open up the dash and see what else is broken. There's a good chance there are several problems that have either happened or are imminent, especially if you never had the linkage recall done. At minimum you want to update all the linkages. The most expensive but permanent(?) solution is to replace every motor so you don't have to open up the dash a 2nd time. This repair is painful.
Last edited by slammer111; Mar 20, 2021 at 10:34 AM.
Cold air is very low and I got no hot air.
No clicking noises, so maybe a stepper motor is dead?
Could someone guide me in the right direction? What is the one I have to check?




I saw the post that you are talking about, but it don't know what is the one that is not working.
Footwell is working OK, it blows hot air, my problem is the center vents and sides. Only blow cold air, and almost no pressure. The center vents blows a little more to driver side.
What stepper number would it be?




The footwell motors and linkages (particularly L side for LHD vehicles) are most known for failing for some reason. There is an upgraded (reinforced) set of linkage arms available from the dealer. Personally I had both the linkage and motor gears fail.
Last edited by slammer111; Jan 27, 2022 at 11:36 PM.
The footwell motors and linkages (particularly L side for LHD vehicles) are most known for failing for some reason. There is an upgraded (reinforced) set of linkage arms available from the dealer. Personally I had both the linkage and motor gears fail.
There is some air, but only cold. Windshield, window and footwell work ok.
So M2/5 and M2/7 are behind the glovebox? How do I get there? I searched for some instructions, but found nothing on those.




Most of the motors are actually behind the radio. However, removing the radio is not good enough. The surrounding trim has to come out as well. To be specific, 4 motors are behind the radio, 1 is behind the instrument cluster (on a LHD car), and 1 is behind the glove box. This is assuming you have the basic HVAC system (6 motors). The deluxe version (digital display, only for C320 and higher trims I believe) has 10 motors.

See post #18. Someone saved the full instructions as a 3 part PDF file.
Last edited by slammer111; Jan 28, 2022 at 12:32 AM.
Most of the motors are actually behind the radio. However, removing the radio is not good enough. The surrounding trim has to come out as well. To be specific, 4 motors are behind the radio, 1 is behind the instrument cluster (on a LHD car), and 1 is behind the glove box. This is assuming you have the basic HVAC system (6 motors). The deluxe version (only for C320 and higher trims I believe) has 10 motors.

See post #18. Someone saved the full instructions as a 3 part PDF file.
I've already read that pdf, but it does not include the motors that interest me. M2/6 and M2/7 are not behind the radio. That's why I was asking how to get to them.




Last edited by slammer111; Jan 28, 2022 at 12:38 AM.

Oh, I see them now, thank you so much.

I guess I have to find the time to do it then.
I owned my C320 for 19 years. I had stepper motor 3 times. If the motor dies, you'll experience problem getting to the right setting. If the linkage dies, on top of that, you may hear the annoying constant flapping noise. The motor was like $2/300 dollars, and the linkage is 1/10 of that. The problem here is more about the labour cost than the parts. Like mentioned above, there are 10 stepper motors in my car. The first time I had the problem, the car was still relatively new. I had it fixed at the dealer. You basically need to take apart the dash and the radio, at the minimum. You'll reach some stepper motors. There are some hiding behind the steering column. So how much time it takes depends on how much you need to dissemble to reach the stepper motor. The dealer told me the best case scenario is 6-8 hours of labour. Worst case can be 12 hours.
Second time, I didn't have it fix at the dealer to save some labour cost. Third time, I did it myself and that culprit was the one behind the steering column. It's a one week job for me.
In the third time, I managed to get a set of 3 old stepper motors and some linkages from the dealer, just in case. The stepper motor(s) controlling the footwell is probably bad now. There's always a bit of air blowing to the driver side footwell, but no air going to the passenger side footwell. There's no snapping noise and I don't mind my passenger getting cold feet, so I am okay living with it
Despite have these problem and some normal wear and tear that I need to fix, this is a great car. It is still rock solid after almost 20 years. Recent MB build has really gone downhill. My brother's first MB was older than mine, and it still runs. He had to get rid of his 2nd and 3rd because there were so much problems. He finally gave up on MB.




