Sub install pics / general pics
09-26-2002, 01:55 AM
#26
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2002 C230k
i just put in an old amp and a bass tube (rockford punch 120 & a 10" sas bazooka tube with a jl w3) i had lying around.... this was no quick task....
first i had to pop a "wire holder" (plug) out of the fire wall... it took me a while to find a way through to get to the battery.... u must go under the glovebox, take out the screws, and find wires on the upper right ... and it took a longer time to get the damn plug out, which i did from the engine.... after i hooked up the wire to the battery, i ran the wire to the passenger side compartment (between the glovebox and the door) and placed an inline fuse here..... i ran the power under all the panels and in to the trunk....
next i used the infamous fuse #7 in the rear for the remote wire.... i used a spade to hold the wire in (squeezed it with pliers to make it fit)... and ran this under the trunk cover and wire cover (which is a hard plastic cover by the spare tire).... in order to take out the wire cover u must take out the 2 d-rings
for ground.... i used the passenger side d-ring... just used the screw to hold it....
now for the worst part.... getting a signal.....
like the other said... i used a high-low converter and patched through the sub
i took apart the whole side where the bose sub is because i was confused with the wires under the "wire cover".... so took out the bose sub and wired directly from the speaker....
i attached speaker wire from the sub, then ran it with the original speaker wire to the converter.... i placed the converter on top of the subwoofer unit, so i can access and adjust it and grounded it to a nearby nut and screw.....
all of the wires met at the upper right hand side of the trunk... i only put on side of the cover of the amp (the cover for the wires) and faced it so i can adjust the amp from the passenger side backseat.... it had just enough room to put the tube below it....
with the amp and tube in a row on the far right, i still have a lot of room in the trunk...
hopefully people can learn from my exploring... and install a sub in no time.... oh yeah.. make sure you keep the converter tuned low (if you use one).... this way you will not experience the volume going high and low on its own
ryan
first i had to pop a "wire holder" (plug) out of the fire wall... it took me a while to find a way through to get to the battery.... u must go under the glovebox, take out the screws, and find wires on the upper right ... and it took a longer time to get the damn plug out, which i did from the engine.... after i hooked up the wire to the battery, i ran the wire to the passenger side compartment (between the glovebox and the door) and placed an inline fuse here..... i ran the power under all the panels and in to the trunk....
next i used the infamous fuse #7 in the rear for the remote wire.... i used a spade to hold the wire in (squeezed it with pliers to make it fit)... and ran this under the trunk cover and wire cover (which is a hard plastic cover by the spare tire).... in order to take out the wire cover u must take out the 2 d-rings
for ground.... i used the passenger side d-ring... just used the screw to hold it....
now for the worst part.... getting a signal.....
like the other said... i used a high-low converter and patched through the sub
i took apart the whole side where the bose sub is because i was confused with the wires under the "wire cover".... so took out the bose sub and wired directly from the speaker....
i attached speaker wire from the sub, then ran it with the original speaker wire to the converter.... i placed the converter on top of the subwoofer unit, so i can access and adjust it and grounded it to a nearby nut and screw.....
all of the wires met at the upper right hand side of the trunk... i only put on side of the cover of the amp (the cover for the wires) and faced it so i can adjust the amp from the passenger side backseat.... it had just enough room to put the tube below it....
with the amp and tube in a row on the far right, i still have a lot of room in the trunk...
hopefully people can learn from my exploring... and install a sub in no time.... oh yeah.. make sure you keep the converter tuned low (if you use one).... this way you will not experience the volume going high and low on its own
ryan
09-26-2002, 02:02 AM
#27
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i just put in an old amp and a bass tube (rockford punch 120 & a 10" sas bazooka tube with a jl w3) i had lying around.... this was no quick task....
first i had to pop a "wire holder" (plug) out of the fire wall... it took me a while to find a way through to get to the battery.... u must go under the glovebox, take out the screws, and find wires on the upper right ... and it took a longer time to get the damn plug out, which i did from the engine.... after i hooked up the wire to the battery, i ran the wire to the passenger side compartment (between the glovebox and the door) and placed an inline fuse here..... i ran the power under all the panels and in to the trunk....
next i used the infamous fuse #7 in the rear for the remote wire.... i used a spade to hold the wire in (squeezed it with pliers to make it fit)... and ran this under the trunk cover and wire cover (which is a hard plastic cover by the spare tire).... in order to take out the wire cover u must take out the 2 d-rings
for ground.... i used the passenger side d-ring... just used the screw to hold it....
now for the worst part.... getting a signal.....
like the other said... i used a high-low converter and patched through the sub
i took apart the whole side where the bose sub is because i was confused with the wires under the "wire cover".... so took out the bose sub and wired directly from the speaker....
i attached speaker wire from the sub, then ran it with the original speaker wire to the converter.... i placed the converter on top of the subwoofer unit, so i can access and adjust it and grounded it to a nearby nut and screw.....
all of the wires met at the upper right hand side of the trunk... i only put on side of the cover of the amp (the cover for the wires) and faced it so i can adjust the amp from the passenger side backseat.... it had just enough room to put the tube below it....
with the amp and tube in a row on the far right, i still have a lot of room in the trunk...
hopefully people can learn from my exploring... and install a sub in no time.... oh yeah.. make sure you keep the converter tuned low (if you use one).... this way you will not experience the volume going high and low on its own
ryan
first i had to pop a "wire holder" (plug) out of the fire wall... it took me a while to find a way through to get to the battery.... u must go under the glovebox, take out the screws, and find wires on the upper right ... and it took a longer time to get the damn plug out, which i did from the engine.... after i hooked up the wire to the battery, i ran the wire to the passenger side compartment (between the glovebox and the door) and placed an inline fuse here..... i ran the power under all the panels and in to the trunk....
next i used the infamous fuse #7 in the rear for the remote wire.... i used a spade to hold the wire in (squeezed it with pliers to make it fit)... and ran this under the trunk cover and wire cover (which is a hard plastic cover by the spare tire).... in order to take out the wire cover u must take out the 2 d-rings
for ground.... i used the passenger side d-ring... just used the screw to hold it....
now for the worst part.... getting a signal.....
like the other said... i used a high-low converter and patched through the sub
i took apart the whole side where the bose sub is because i was confused with the wires under the "wire cover".... so took out the bose sub and wired directly from the speaker....
i attached speaker wire from the sub, then ran it with the original speaker wire to the converter.... i placed the converter on top of the subwoofer unit, so i can access and adjust it and grounded it to a nearby nut and screw.....
all of the wires met at the upper right hand side of the trunk... i only put on side of the cover of the amp (the cover for the wires) and faced it so i can adjust the amp from the passenger side backseat.... it had just enough room to put the tube below it....
with the amp and tube in a row on the far right, i still have a lot of room in the trunk...
hopefully people can learn from my exploring... and install a sub in no time.... oh yeah.. make sure you keep the converter tuned low (if you use one).... this way you will not experience the volume going high and low on its own
ryan
09-26-2002, 08:03 AM
#28
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E350 Coupe (2010)
Enze6997
So you only tapped in 1 side? You didnt do any "right" side?
And rear speaker? which one?... the rear ones that im thinking of are on the back of the door,
unless u intercepted before the stock amp?
So you only tapped in 1 side? You didnt do any "right" side?
And rear speaker? which one?... the rear ones that im thinking of are on the back of the door,
unless u intercepted before the stock amp?
I have a mono amp whats the point of tappin in at any other side... and I looked again and I think its tapped to the sub woofer after further review... but if you change the Fader in the car and go full right ... no bass... full left ... bass
09-26-2002, 04:55 PM
#29
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2002 C230 Coupe Black/Charcoal C5 C7 Auto
Re: Sub install pics / general pics
Originally posted by Enze6997
clear corners...
Sub install
Sub Install 2
SL 500 Ebrake
clear corners...
Sub install
Sub Install 2
SL 500 Ebrake
09-26-2002, 11:13 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
So how does that bazooka sound? I've stewed over strappin one of those in. Then when you need space it can be taken out pretty easily. I was considering one of the powered bazookas.
P
P
09-27-2002, 10:56 AM
#33
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to be honest... i never heard the powered one.... you don't need a big amp for the tube (even 100w should be alright)
i blew the factory sas bazooka speaker (rs series) with an older rockford 150w amp.... that's why i replaced it with a jl w3 (dunno which exact model... dual coils)... it sounds good with the factory speaker, but i like it even more with the jl....
for the price, you really can't go wrong... make sure you get the rs series, or a higher model if they have one out.... another option would be the rockford bass tubes... my brother has one in his acura cl and it sounds good.... another good buy.. i don't think these come powered though....
it is the easiest thing to take out... i will post pics....
i blew the factory sas bazooka speaker (rs series) with an older rockford 150w amp.... that's why i replaced it with a jl w3 (dunno which exact model... dual coils)... it sounds good with the factory speaker, but i like it even more with the jl....
for the price, you really can't go wrong... make sure you get the rs series, or a higher model if they have one out.... another option would be the rockford bass tubes... my brother has one in his acura cl and it sounds good.... another good buy.. i don't think these come powered though....
it is the easiest thing to take out... i will post pics....
09-28-2002, 08:19 AM
#34
Administrator
Originally posted by Enze6997
I am considering buying an 8 ohm resistor and running it in parallel with my Sub thus making the amp see a 4 ohm resistance...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7
So I sould be able to get 100 watts apparently at 4 ohm and 200 at 2 ohm...
Will this help with the power or is it just going to distribute my signal and make it sound like crap?
I am considering buying an 8 ohm resistor and running it in parallel with my Sub thus making the amp see a 4 ohm resistance...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7
So I sould be able to get 100 watts apparently at 4 ohm and 200 at 2 ohm...
Will this help with the power or is it just going to distribute my signal and make it sound like crap?
That would not be a good recommendation. Assuming your sub has an 8 OHM impedance it most likely has a DC resistance of about 6 OHM. That would be in parallel with your resistor. You wouldn't gain any volume since the resistor would just waste the amps power and radiate it as heat.
