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M271 - MAF Cleaning - HELP

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Old 04-22-2007, 09:59 AM
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M271 - MAF Cleaning - HELP

Lets first find the MAF, the figure out how to get it out.

Is what I have unplugged the MAF?
If so, there are 3 screws holding it to the airbox, yet all 3 are a PITA to get to! The lowest one (left side in pic) I cannot get at with a screwdriver, the braided hose is in the way.

Any tips appreciated guys.



Old 04-22-2007, 10:49 AM
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OK so that is the MAF, no the problem is MB PUT A SCREW ON THE BOTTOM of the pipe that connects to the air box that surrounds the MAF.

WTF! How am I supposed to get at that screw to get the pipe disconnected form the air-box?

Or is there a way to get the sensor out without removing the pipe?
Old 04-22-2007, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by C230SportsCoupe
OK so that is the MAF, no the problem is MB PUT A SCREW ON THE BOTTOM of the pipe that connects to the air box that surrounds the MAF.

WTF! How am I supposed to get at that screw to get the pipe disconnected form the air-box?

Or is there a way to get the sensor out without removing the pipe?
You have to take apart the whole airbox. You need some inverted torx bits to take out tthetwo bolts in the holes. Then you slide the airbox forward (with lots of nudging) and it comes free. After that's free, then take T25s to take out the 3 holding the MAF assembly.

It's some work, i'll tell you that much . Just be patient.
Old 04-22-2007, 12:15 PM
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Disconnecting the ECU may help a bit and vice versa, removing the airbox for more room might help in ECU removal. You'll need ratchets and extensions for this job - I think I've done this about 7 times on someone's car lol.
Old 04-22-2007, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mig888
You have to take apart the whole airbox. You need some inverted torx bits to take out tthetwo bolts in the holes. Then you slide the airbox forward (with lots of nudging) and it comes free. After that's free, then take T25s to take out the 3 holding the MAF assembly.

It's some work, i'll tell you that much . Just be patient.
I have the 2 bolts out on the fire-wall side of the air-box. I'll remove the piping at the front of the air-box, then disconnect the top metal ring from a connecting hose on the pipe that goes down from the back of the airbox.

I saw 2 rubber pieces that the airbox seems connected to on either side, does the airbox simply clamp onto these?

So basically its free right now, I just need to pull forward. I will report more progress in an hour.
Old 04-22-2007, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mig888
Disconnecting the ECU may help a bit and vice versa, removing the airbox for more room might help in ECU removal. You'll need ratchets and extensions for this job - I think I've done this about 7 times on someone's car lol.
Should I disconnect the battery before disconnecting the ECU?
Old 04-22-2007, 12:28 PM
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I can't answer your question on disconnecting the battery before the ECU. But remember, people get faults when disconnecting there batteries.

If you are looking to clean the MAF, clean it in place, let it air dry for about 2 hours, then put it all back together. The MAF cleaner dries really quick.

If you are replacing it, that is another mater entirely.

E
Old 04-22-2007, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by emrliquidlife
If you are looking to clean the MAF, clean it in place, let it air dry for about 2 hours, then put it all back together. The MAF cleaner dries really quick.
You mean spray it while its in the car? Its behind a plastic grid, and I don't really want to spray crap into my intake.
Old 04-22-2007, 01:14 PM
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Success! except...

The ring clamps that hold the downpipe to a rubber section. Any tips on how to release them? and more importantly re-clamp them afterwards?

Going to the hardware store to look at them and see if there's a tool I can buy (plus I need a 27mm socket for the oil filter).
Old 04-22-2007, 03:49 PM
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You have to use a long pair of bent needle noise pliers or the Mercedes tool. Craftsman makes a pair of the special plier for this style of clamp to. About $35, If you are going to work on your car alot you might invest since most of the clamps are this style. I removed my clamp and replaced it with a stadard screw style when i did my Kleemann kit because it makes it easier to use a 1/4 extension and just unscrew it. I remove all the wires and plugs, undo the large vacume line by pinching it at the lugs on each side and pulling up, undo the two airbox mounts, and then the clamp on the down pipe. You lift up in the back so the down pipe clears, then move back tward the firewall tell the front mounts come loose of the rubber recepticles. then lift it forward and come straight out with it. this takes only a few minutes to do and if you remove the airbox it is esier to remove the ECU then try to unscrew it in place.
Old 04-22-2007, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Russell Stevens
You have to use a long pair of bent needle noise pliers or the Mercedes tool. Craftsman makes a pair of the special plier for this style of clamp to. About $35, If you are going to work on your car alot you might invest since most of the clamps are this style. I removed my clamp and replaced it with a stadard screw style when i did my Kleemann kit because it makes it easier to use a 1/4 extension and just unscrew it. I remove all the wires and plugs, undo the large vacume line by pinching it at the lugs on each side and pulling up, undo the two airbox mounts, and then the clamp on the down pipe. You lift up in the back so the down pipe clears, then move back tward the firewall tell the front mounts come loose of the rubber recepticles. then lift it forward and come straight out with it. this takes only a few minutes to do and if you remove the airbox it is esier to remove the ECU then try to unscrew it in place.
The vacuum line wouldn't budge that easy for me so I left it alone, next time I'll try a bit harder to get rid of it since it'd make the process so much easier.

If I could've gotten the metal clamp undone, its really a 10 min job. I'll do my best to take pics next time and write up a DIY, since I needed my car and put it all back together without getting the MAF out.

I plan on working on my car more often, so I'll look up that tool, although with the size of the area to work in, a screw style clamp would work so much better.
Old 04-22-2007, 05:12 PM
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With the amount of engineering put into ths car, someone could've designed the pipe around the MAF to make it easily removable. I'm surprised at how over-engineered this car is, yet not for easy maintenance and repairs.
Old 04-22-2007, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by C230SportsCoupe
You mean spray it while its in the car? Its behind a plastic grid, and I don't really want to spray crap into my intake.
By all means, keep the sediment at the bottom of your air box away, but there are not large particles in the MAF. Just a oil residue type coating that prevents accurate measurements.

E
Old 05-24-2007, 12:26 PM
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C230 KOMPRESSOR (2003)
How to remove Maf on 2003 C230K

Hey everyone!

I am looking for the maf on the 2003 c230K coupe, i have spotted it after i took out the air filter cover. It is located on the drivers side way at the back in 03 c230 k. I unplugged the cable and unscrewed the screws but it seems like maf on this particular model is not all that accessible. I dont know how to take it out. I have checked this forum thoroughly and it seems like a pretty easy job on other models but this particular model seems a bit tricky, any help will be highly appreciated. Any pics will help alot.

Thanks alot guys in advance.
Old 05-24-2007, 01:06 PM
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Use the search function Luke, it is your friend...

Do the advanced search within this W203 forum. Lots of info available.

E
Old 05-24-2007, 01:53 PM
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C230 KOMPRESSOR (2003)
Thanks E

I have searched this forum and benzworld.org forums thoroughly. I didnot come across any information particular to 2003 C230 K coupe. I would really appreciate if someone cud help me here.

Thanks.
Old 05-24-2007, 02:05 PM
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Search on my user name, I posted a topic with pics a few weeks ago.

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...&highlight=maf

Last edited by C230SportsCoupe; 05-24-2007 at 02:07 PM.
Old 05-24-2007, 03:04 PM
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Thanks alot budd. It was very helpfull.
Old 05-24-2007, 10:08 PM
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Why do you guys even bother to clean the MAF. The extreme heat at the MAF will burn every partical that went through there. ie. it wont get dirty. If you take out the MAF you risk ruining the MAF, i would say its better to leave it alone.
Old 05-25-2007, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by raklert
Why do you guys even bother to clean the MAF. The extreme heat at the MAF will burn every partical that went through there. ie. it wont get dirty. If you take out the MAF you risk ruining the MAF, i would say its better to leave it alone.
I found an online distributor for $129 USD, so I'm just going to replace mine instead of continuing to clean it.
Old 05-25-2007, 07:36 AM
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I cleaned mine and resulted in a waste of time, better off replacing with a new once you're there.
Old 05-25-2007, 02:14 PM
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I couldn't disagree with you guys more. Lots of us have cleared codes with just a $6 can of MAF cleaner.

E
Old 06-28-2007, 03:18 PM
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'16 E350, gone: '03 c230k
C230SportsCoupe, would you mind sharing your source for the MAF? PM me if you want. Thanks!!!
Old 06-28-2007, 08:13 PM
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I just got my MAF replaced....$700 later
Anyways, my car runs like a champ and mpg are way up.
Old 06-28-2007, 10:32 PM
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'16 E350, gone: '03 c230k
w203 - what kind of issue were you having that led to the MAF being replaced? Were you having an idling issue, by chance?


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