advans

Hi All,

I've been monitoring this weird "CLOCK!" kinda sound coming from the rear drivers side, suspension/wheel area.

This sound is actually quite loud, If I scaled this from 1 to 10 as 1 would be quite and 10 would be the loudness of our honks, this would be at at 6/7ish range.

What I have noiced....

If I heavy throttle over a unpaved kinda surface, like a bump road, this happens, "CLOCK CLOCK" or even similar to the sound of a wheel rubbing the fender, but thats not the case...

If I heavy throttle a left turn, (from 0mph) the tires will screech, and right before the car turns straight, it "CLOCK CLOCKS" again.

What I have done....

I removed everything from my rear trunk, such as spares, inflator, boxes of crap, even my decklid spoiler! and my rear is completly naked and stock. It still happens!

What I am assuming...

I am assuming that either a suspension component is faulty (but then again, this doesnt happen going straight, even with bumps! only when there is unpaved/bumps and when you heavy throttle it).

I am assuming the rear tires need to be replaced/not enough PSI.. (I do notice that I have about 50% or so left in the rears, and I run a 30psi front 33-1/2 psi rear)

I am assuming that the ESP is locking it, thats why it has that sound (But when the ESP locks, it prevents you from even MOVING, but the car does move foward, theres no jerk, and the sound is WAY LOUDER than the ESP locking)

ANY Suggestions, soultions would help. I really dont wanna bring the coupe back in the shop, since it was just there for a week, last week that was.

KIRA

if is driver side, then you must be over-weight and you rocking in your car too much

advans

ahhhhahaha funny!

but still, seriously, that sound is pissin me off, there MUST be something wrong.

KIRA

video record it with sound??

coz once i lower my coupe i keep getting sound going over pot hole

advans

anyone else?

kcheng86

What suspension do you have? I have the same problem...and i dont know if its my suspension or not either, but right now im assuming it is my suspension..I have tein basic

drexappeal

Have you upgraded the swaybars? If so, it may be that you need new end link bushings or need to re-tighten the bolts and/or re-lube the swaybar bushings.

TruTaing

My friend had this noise - the bolt that holds the damper to the bottom of his suspension was a bit loose. We tightened it up and the noise was gone. I dunno if this applies to you because im guessing your suspension has been on for a long while...

advans

kcheng,

I'm using the completely stock suspension system.

drex,

I did not upgrade the sway bars because the sway bars were exactly the same! but, I'll look into that again.

trutaing,

I'm gonna go get it checked, see what the problem is!


Thanks alot guys!

SeaCoupe

Thats what I'm thinking. A loose bolt some where. You could easily get in there, and tighten everything. Look for play on anything. Is this the rear drivers side wheel or the front? The rear should be easier to locate your Clock sound.

Also, take a look at your spring perch and see that is correctly located.

E

advans

thanks E,

My SA is a very nice guy, I gave him a call today, and he told me to drive it in tomorow morning, and he'll get my car up for checkup and getting it fixed )or replace things) first thing.

advans

Hi All,

I finally got my car back today, my car has been in and out of the stealers during the past two weeks. THE SOUND IS STILL THERE! (below is a link to the sound/video clip I took with my cell phone,)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HED7WKDhAxM

What has been replaced by the dealers...

FRONT:
1. Torsion bars, (left and right)
2. Endlinks, (left and right)
3. Stabilzer bars
4. corresponding bushigns and brackets
5. lower control arms.

REAR:
NOTHING.

THE NOISE IS STILL THERE! i dont understand how I specifically say the sound is coming from the rear drivers side wheel, they change everything in the front!

I did a test tonight, over any types of bump, accelerating, the CLOCK CLOCK noise will kick in, ONLY in the rear drivers wheel, I did a series of bumps for the passanger side...NOTHING.

I also noticed that the ride is quite bumpy. I'm using 29 1/2 psi front and 33psi rear.

WHAT I ASSUME NOW: rear drivers side shock is banged.

Saprissa

why did you drive off the dealership lot, if the sound was still there ??

I would of turned around on the spot and asked WTF ???

and why change the fronts, when you specifically told them the sound was coming from the rear ????
Sounds like a retarded dealership !

drexappeal

what kind of suspension r u running again?

advans

carlos,

I didnt really get to "test" out the car till I got back to (BROOKLYN) which is where I live, and the dealer is in (MANHATTAN). there was bumper to bumper traffic all the way back. they told me the noise was coming from the front end. and it was all fixed.

this only happens when...

1. at rest (stop) then gas thru a slight bump. then it clicks.

2. highway (accelerating, slow/fast) thru bumpts, then it clicks.

I have contacted my SA the min I heard the sound, he said, bring it right back in tuesday morning, and we'll road test it. hes a good guy tho, he had everything replaced for free so far.

drex,

I'm running the completely stock suspension.

kcheng86

damn, i want to know whats wrong..keep us posted...

Saprissa

Gary,
could it be your differential ???

drexappeal

you're positive nothing is loose in your spare tire well? I say bring it back to the dealer again.

Midnight Koop

you should take absolutely everything out of the trunk (spare tire, jack, etc...) then, you should have a friend drive around and try to simulate that clocking noise by driving... while he is doing that, you should be seated in the back with the seats folded down so you can listen and move around to find out exactly where the noise is coming from.

just so you can be sure you're narrowing it down to the right location.

Saprissa

Possible Problem # 1

MBNet 508-DTB 63/00
MODEL 203 C320
Rear Differential

For customer complaints of gear noise mainly on deceleration at highway speeds, there may be some contact between the differential cover and the rear subframe. This condition may be corrected with the installation of two shims (MB Part # N 000 125 01 50 19 - one shim per part number) between the differential and its mounting bushings in the rear subframe to gain adequate clearance between the subframe and differential cover.

Note: Installation of these shims does not require removal of the differential from the vehicle and the position of the carrier bearing should be adjusted to relieve any preload placed on the bearing by the new position of the differential. This can be done by loosening the two mounting bolts on the carrier bearing and allowing the bearing to move forward 2-2.5 mm and then retorquing.

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

Saprissa

Possible Problem # 2

P-B-32.25/13
Model 203
Rumbling Noise in Area of Rear Axle

If you encounter instances of a rumbling noise in the area of the rear axle, the tightening torque of the bottom mounting bolts for the rear shock absorbers may be insufficient. To resolve, remove corners on spring links and remove / replace both bolts and nuts. The correct torque for the self-locking nut for attaching the shock absorber to spring link is 55 Nm.

Parts information:
Qty / Part Name / Part #
2 / Bolt / N 910 105 01003
2 / Bolt / N 913 023 01002

In case of warranty
Operation: Lower mounting bolts both rear axle shock absorbers, replace (02 38085)
Damage Code: 32313 38
Operation Number: 02 3808
Time (hrs.): 0.6 hrs.
Model Indicator(s): P0, Q0


Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

Saprissa

Possible Problem # 3

P-B-32.20/10
Model 203
Rear Axle Noise

If you encounter instances in Model 203 vehicles of rear axle knocking noises, the mounting screw on the right connection rod torsion bar on the wheel carrier may be too long. For verification / remedy, please perform the following procedure:
1) Check the upper connection rod torsion bar (6k in Figure 1) at mounting point to wheel carrier for axial play.


2) If axial play is present, replace screw with 45mm shank length.

Parts information:
Qty. / Part Name / Part #
1 / Screw / N 910 143 01 00 00

In case of warranty
Operation: Screw -right connecting rod to torsion bar and wheel carrier, check / replace if necessary (02 3544)
Damage Code: 32228 38
Operation Number: 02 3544
Time (hrs.): .3
Model Indicator(s): P0


Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

advans

hmm thanks carlos, ima print this out, and give it to my SA.

abe,

I did take everything out of the trunk. I took the carpet, spare tire, jacks, etc. I even removed my spoiler. it was still there!!!

by the way, the following was replaced by the dealer this past two weeks...

FRONT LEFT AND RIGHT THRUST ARMS, LOWER CONTROL ARMS, ENDLINKS, STABILZER BARS (TORSION ROD?), BUSHINGS.

they also removed all tires, reinstalled/balanced them, re-torqued everything front and rear

*EDIT*

right, i'm heading back to the dealer either monday afternoon or tuesday morning, depending on my work schedual

Saprissa

No worries. Let me know what they say.

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

drexappeal

sounds like da problem I was havng wid my sawybars ealry on. I just tightened them up where they connect to the endlinks and the sound went away. Have them also check the rear endlinks that connect to the swaybar. Those may be bad also, even on stock swaybars. Also, the swaybar bushings may need to be lubed, which is stansard maintenance anyway.