Buellwinkle

Wow, that's amazing for an MB. We reached 99K miles on my kid's SLK230 and the pain goes in spurts. Right now it's running great, no problems other than a foglight broke, no fault of MBs. Most of the expense is dealing with the dealer, simple $1 repairs can easily run into the thousands at my local stealership. People that don't maintain and repair their own cars can shell out serious money at the dealers and many independents. Also, doing the math on resale value over time, it's best to get rid of the car just when the warranty expires vs. keeping it 6-7 years because the car actually depreciates more the second 3 years than the first 3 years. Then factor warranty, it maybe cheaper for new.

benzmodz

I think the OP was thinking of timing belts. Obviously they only last 60,000 - 120,000.

Frissen

Unfortunately MB dealers are terrible at a honest reliable service. But it is the structure that causes such bad and expensive service. The Advisor, Parts Manager and Mechanic are on comission and under a quota so everything in your car is an opportunity to make a buck or quota. I bet that if dealers don't touch a car it would last 300k miles without major problems, maybe not the W203 but certainly a W202 and under would. The W203 and the era cars went down on component quality but it seems resolved now. Would a W203 last forever, I think not as it carries many issues, but if you tackle issue by issue you may have an above average car because the structure is quite solid, it drives very good and is very comfortable.

benzmodz

My W203 has no issues at all. It had a few bugs which were electrical but none of those caused my car to stop running. Any time I replace a wear item it runs better.

As for the quota scheme ... couldnt agree more. But bear in mind one thing. That is an incentive scheme not a scam. The REAL problem is that service intervals are too long for the type of oil quality which is used outside of Europe.

advans

I totally agree, even just the "10,000" mile oil change is like

In europe, there is probably no such thing as our bumper to bumper traffic, (they DO have traffic, but not as bad as traffic here!) especially in the big US cities.

I usually do a oil change every 3000-4000 miles!

adamlynn

I've seen one for sale here with 380,000 km (w203)

rwdforlife

Nice house! Btw, you must have other facinating TOYS in that 4 bedroom garage hey?

KA8

I agree with Buellwinkle. Getting any car especially MB's past 100K miles shouldn't even be a question but I notice so many newer MB owners are so proud that they passed 100K miles.

SeaCoupe

I get proud of the high mileage, because it is a reflection of how I have taken care of the car. Heck, my car looks better now than it did at 80k miles.

New Bi-xenons, and an upgrade fog and grill helped alot.

Slammer asked about the tranny fluid. To be honest, I would not know if the tranny fluid was terribly bad. However, the look was deep burnt red, as oppossed to the kool-aid look when new. In addition, I had VERY small metal particulates in the magnetic bar in the tranny pan.

Sunil, I have the M111 engine. Does the same apply to the timing chain as the M112? Don't touch it? If I have the head off, won't I also have to take off the timing chain? Ohh, I'm dying to hear your input on the Kleeman S/C you put on your car.

Thanks,

E

KTMrider

I just sold my 1998 C230 with 167,000 almost trouble free miles . The only reason I sold it was becuase relatives gave me a deal on a garage queen C280 with 70K miles . Here's what I did - I changed every fluid in the car . The old adage " if it moves it wears out " might be true . I vacuum changed brake fluid annually , diff and auto trans w/filter at 100 K then trans. drain/change at 30K intervals . Used Castrol Syntec at 4 changes per year - maybe 4000 miles per with a filter once / year . Never used fuel injector cleaner - hard on O2 sensors which never died . Used branded gas not discount stuff most times -premium always . Made sure door drain and trunk drain holes stayed clean . Used Griot's Garage paint clay and Paint Sealant to maintain a great shine as car outside past 4 years . Used Plews grease needle every other year to deposit 1-2 grams high quality grease into ball joints /tie rod end boots . No slop and no alignment issues at 167,000 miles . Replaced PS fluid with Febi Bilstein fluid via vacuum twice . Mity-Vac is my friend . Mequires leather conditoner every 4-5 months . Used MB parts only -- including antifreeze , especially anti-freeze and trans fluid for 722.6 tranny . Drove like I had some sense and blew it out once every few months after engine @ op. temp. Changed serpentine belt and tensioner assembly at 100 K . There was an at op. temp. light tapping/knock from rearmost rocker/tappet near cam but no oil consumption . Castrol Syn-Tec is a highly refined mineral based oil and I always wondered if the outcome would have been different with one of the PAO/ester oils . Replaced thermostat at 120K and old one was perfect- work of art so didn't see a need for any flush . Not a fan of flushes of anything but toilets . The timing chain will let you know when its ready . It will gradually get louder and louder so it tells you when time to ee your MB service folks . If it chews through the polymeric slider it may foul the cam holders a bit but your oil filter will pickup the aluminum particles before it kills the entore engine -- don't wait that long please . On the water pump - when the serpentinbe belt is off spin it and feel for roughness or excessive noise . I use a mechaics stethoscope --it will tell you if the bearings are in jeopardy from normal wear . Thats about it .

raklert

I have a 1994 E220 W124 and it still kickin, no major problems. The 203 however is a cry baby. The problems mostly electrical parts .

HeirKranz

153,000 miles on my m111 with the original S/C and no major problems yet---Laundry list so far after warantee was up not including mods just mechanical

153,000 miles so far
-oil changes around 6-8,000 miles $50.00x20=$1,000.00
-Alternator $750.00 at the stealership (don't ask) @150k
-MAF sensor twice: $460.00 @60k and 120k
-replaced clutch: $150.00 off ebay from an 03 and I put it in @ 80k
-coil packs once: $120.00 @75k
-serpentine belts twice: $60.00 @70k and 120k
-spark plugs twice: $35.00 @60k and 90k
-radiator fluid once: $22.00 @135k
-rear diff fluid twice: $16.00 @75k and 130k


Total is $2,613.00 for all parts and labor mostly by me for the last 5 years
Mods is another story altogether

SeaCoupe

Really good maintenance schedule. How did your radiator flush look? Mine had quite a bit of rust flakes.

Have you dyno'd the car. I would like to see the power you are getting to the wheels.

What about 1/4 or 0-60 times?

Ohh, and you should blow up the pic of the babe in the red bikini!

E

top

Maintainance cost over 100k is crazy.

BlackLiquorish8

i have around 60K and bought the car a year ago at like 39K. The car has been pretty reliable so far the only thing replaced was a tire and a alternator, got the spark plugs changed NGK... along with few maintence things. A couple of squeaks here and there and maybe a few small things under warranty. I havent had anything flushed yet is this bad??? I just heard that your suppose to have the tranny fluid flushed sometime before 100K. When are you suppose to flush the coolant and rear diff fluid???

splinter

Just heard?
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/196184-spoke-mechanic-about-changin-tranny-fluid.html Memorial Day to Labor Day...it's time bro!

If you intend to keep the car a while, preventative maintenance is always less costly than repairs incurred due to neglect. Particularly so for us DIYer’s. If one is beholden to unscrupulous individuals, all bets are off. It could bite you worse, and almost as fast, than a bad night at the tables.

BlackLiquorish8

for those that took it to a indy, or gas station how much was it to have the filter and tranny fluid changed??? no point of askin the stealership since i know they will charge an arm or a leg. my tranny has been a lil rough lately esp at stop and goes or heavy traffic

C230 Sport Coup

Might need some help here...(tongue in cheek answers encouraged)

10. Place in a time capsule and bury it
9. Put on jack stands in the garage....forever and ever and ever...
8. Donate a room in your house to a live in mechanic.
7. Transport yourself back into the past on a regular basis
6. Set up a trust fund for the car
5. Pay the dealer whatever it takes
4. Never drive it, just look at it
3. Drive your SA insane, get every part on the car replaced before the warranty expires. ( I've had some experience here..)
2. Donate to a museum.


and the number 1 way to make a C Class last forever is.....

1. Start a cult that worships your car and will do so long after the world ends, a doomsday cult of mutants that thinks the W203 was a sentient being of unimaginable godlike greatness, and will come to life again...
if they only could find a gallon of gas in 1000 years.....

QQQ

I just did what was stated in the service book. Have not changed tranny fluid or timing belt.

guanabara

slick50 has been sued for false advertisment by the government.

All good quality synthetic oils do not need any after market additives.
In fact, most, including slick50 do more harm then good, including rusting metal parts or clogging stuff.
Stay away from those things.
Change oil at th FSS interval or less or each one year maximum. Change the oil filter each 6 months (paper element) or 1 year (felt element).
Use Mobil1 synth , Amsoil european or other good quality oil that meets MB Specs 229.51 or later).

guanabara

My 1999 C230K, has 70K on it now.

I just had the transmission, differential oil, belts, alternator(just failed to charge battery), front flex disk, shift stick bushings, fuel filter, front pads (ceramic akebono to get rid rid of oem dust factory pads),
Other things you may need depending on pot holes in your area are:
Tie rods, idle bars, springs.
Other routine maintenance items:
Radiator water replacement, brake oil replacement (some new synthetic brake oil (DOT4) keep water in suspension, reducing the impact to brake parts and performance. Steering oil replacement along with filter.

I always tried to do some of this myself in the past, mainly for not trusting dealer and mechanics to do a good job and being honest about it.
Just recently I found a reliable MB repair shop. Owner is the only mechanic in shop for all service, so you are sure to get quality work all the time.

He charges the same discounted price for parts he gets from dealer (uses original parts). It is amazing how the discount prices are so competitive with the discount parts online prices. In addition his hourly rate is 75/hour. Yes it is a bargain when comparing to dealer and even gas station prices around 120/hour in the DC metropolitan area.

The shop name is RC Imports. You can reach him at 301-7624205 (Richard)
He is a member of the MBCA too and participates on the MB vintage cars Rallies yearly. Store located near the Rockville staion in MD.
I highly recommend this guy. Finally a MB repair shop that I can trust and discuss with the mechanic/owner longer tha 30 sec about my concerns and questions.

radiogator

Well you guys have freaked me out. I have a 2002 C320 with 67k mi. Extended warranty nearing an end. Now I'm seriously considering trading for a Lexus ES300.

bensitto

Bought my C320 in March 2001, one of the first models.

133k and still running strong!!! It's all about good maintenance.

• Oil changes every 3-5k
• New tranny fluid and filter at 80k
• coolant flush every 2 years
• brake fluid flush every spring (Moisture builds up)
• New Bosch Quad plugs at 80k
• K&N filters cleaned and recharged every 30K
• Condition leather every 6 months
• Wash and wax, quickwax, ALOT!

I'm so happy with the car, would never trade it in. Even when I get my new Benz.

Same story with my 01 ML320... 70k in great shape!

C230 Sport Coup

Turned 120K today.

RLE

<<I just did what was stated in the service book. Have not changed tranny fluid or timing belt>>

Hard to change the timing belt when there isn't one. And, Mercedes announced via service bulletin in 2005 that the lifetime trans fluid was not so lifetime after
all and were saying change it at 39K miles from then on. But, since the 5-speed automatics don't have a torque converter drain plug, you can get only 1/2 of it out anyway.

The 7-speeds have gone back to TC drains.