Your Pela looks exactly like my "Mity-Vac." However, the hash marks on my unit are in LITERS, not quarts. Is your Pela extractor marked in Liters or Quarts? I have to remind myself to determine this every time I use my extractor.

The picture of your pump looks like well OVER 7 Liters on my pump. If what you thought was 7 quarts actually measures 7 Liters, then you actually pumped out 7.4 Quarts . With these higher capacity oil sumps, the differences between quarts and liters are more apparent.

Here is a nifty conversion tool. http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html

As for efficiency of the pump, I just changed the oil on my 3.2L last Tuesday. (8 Qt Capacity) I had 7.5 quarts in the sump, as measured by the oil capacity measurement screen on my 2001 model. I pumped out 7.1 Liters (all 7.5 quarts). I reinstalled 8 quarts, and the MFD display then measured exactly 8 quarts. I think the pump is plenty efficient.

 

my mechanic told me that oil pumps dont get everything out so its smarter to drain it... makes sense to me

 

Even when you drain it is impossible to get all the oil out. There is oil on top of the head around all the valves, in oil passages through the crank and in the oil pump. How much extra you get out doesnt matter in the long run. Just change your oil when you are suppose to and all is well. It's when you have 50,000 on regular oil and you just add a quart when the light comes on that is really bad. Drain it, suck it, who cares, just change it for goodness sakes.

 

The debate on drain vs. suction is over. I conducted Wingless's test. It was a PITA, but I wanted to know my self and help the community.

I just changed my oil and first started by pumping it out using a pneumatic oil extractor. I extracted out the oil then pulled the drain plug. The results........Not a drop of oil came out.

I then poured the oil back in from my extractor to the engine and drained though the drain plug. I put the drain plug back in and fired up my extractor. All it did was gurgle sucked up a few drops of oil then just sucked air.

Bottom line, drain or suction, pick your favorite, they both get the same amount of oil out of the engine.

Stay tuned and I will add my oil change writeup to this thread.

I only did put in just shy of 8.25 quarts to fill exactly to the full mark on the dipstick. As Russell pointed out, you can't get absolutely all the oil out of the engine.

 

Booo-Yaaaa touchdown. The debate appears to be over. For us underside guys, heres to good news.

E

 

John, you need a hobby.

Good to see that someone actually stepped up and did the test. Nicely done.

 

It is good news As extraction via a pneumatic extractor is such an easy, cleaner, process! Getting the car up on ramps, removing the covers and pulling the drain plug, and having oil go everywhere, is such a drag.

I will admit that when doing the extraction method, you must have patience if you want to get all the oil out. I left it to do it's thing for about an hour. Then re pressurized it and pushed the tube down as tight as possible and held it for a few minutes until is started sucking air. That got out about another 1/2-3/4 quart.

I do have quite a few hobbies that take up most of my time (Currently remodeling my house ). But I do have a bit of OCD, and that is why I went to the hassle, is I needed to know for my own sanity. Sent the oil out for analysis too, so should see those results shortly. I did get some rolling of the eyes and the "Why do you bother wasting your time on crap like that?" from the wife, but it's all good

 

I have always drained, but am now tempted to extract since it would be so much easier.

I realize the issue of adequately removing all the fluid is addressed here. May be other factors to consider - you would want to make absolutely sure that the tubing that you put down the filler tube is very clean, because there is a risk of contaminating your oil if its not perfectly clean (probably pretty easy to do this). But I also wonder if a drain is better at removing (or flushing) any solid particles that a suction may leave behind. The force of the fluid rapidly going out a drain should flush any particles that may be on the bottom of that oil pan. Just a thought....

 

good write up

 

Nicely done! Excellent procedure and write-up. Thank you.

 

Okay; so Million Dollar ? is can I use this suction thing to suck out my transmission oil and refill it? understand that the tranny filter needs to be change as well but for sake of argument (changing tranny every 30,000 miles or so) can this be done?

 

so does anyone know if this is the same procedure?

is there no dipstick in a c240 or c320?

-carino

 

No dipstick, and the oil should be extracted out of the tube. The 240, 280, 320, & 350 are all variations on the same theme. Removing the drain plug requires changing the crush washer. The thread on the drain plug is an interference fit. This design allows the plug to seal better. Taking the plug in and out lessens the interference fit, making the car more prone to leaking oil.

 

thanks moviela...

i initially thought that NO dipstick = NO tube. i just recently ordered one of the oil extractors and was worrying if i would be able to use it on my c320 or not. I havent actually lifted up the hood and looked but from what ive searched and read it should be pretty much the same procedure as written in this write up.

 

Thanks Drop-a-Daimler! I was a little scared to try this myself, but figured what the heck. I bought an Ball shaped, 6.5 Qt extracter at Pep Boys for $69.99, filter from the dealer for $21.00, 8 Qts of Mobil 1 0W40 and a 76mm Oil Filter Wrench. I have a 2003 C320 so my filter must be bigger.

I took my time, so it took me about 45 mins, but was as smooth as silk. I kept pumping out oil until I filled it once, dumped that and went back to pumping. I pumped until the slurping sound started and pumped some more. Then replaced the oil filter and the 4 O-rings (some people said 3, but mine had 4 and the filter came with them).

One tip that I can give to avoid over filling is: I put in 6 Qts, then got in the car and did the oil check. It said to add 1.5 Qts, so I added exactly that much and checked again. I got the "Level Ok!". I think it even seems to run better!

This board and You People are Awesome!

Thanks!

 

Would it make any sense to pour in a litre or two of new oil after you've drained the entire engine, then pump out the 2 litres that you just put in, before filling again with a fresh 7-8 lites?

A way of "flushing" the dirty oil off of internal engine parts from the top down? I would pour in thru the oil filter reservoir and also where the oil filler cap is located.

Anyone OCD like me with this?

 

so i changed the oil on 2 both of my 320's....

purchased the extractor on amazon... and the filter tool cap from autozone

for my C.... the h-n-r filter cost me like 18 bucks on ebay. i put 10w30 high mileage mobile-1 and it cost me approx $50 bucks with tax ($25/5 quart)

the c used about 1.5 bottles..... so all in all for just the oil and filter..

$23 (1 bottle)
$12.5 (1/2 bottle)
$18 (filter)
------------
$53.5


occasionally i get my oil changed at one of the local dealers for 19 bucks ( regularly 59.99). I also just received a coupon from another local dealer for 39. bucks (regularly 89.99).

so in reality im only saving approx 7-8 bucks if i take it to the first dealer and paying full price (assuming that the SA doesnt talk me into fixing something that may not need fixing.)

this may sound awful..... but my time is worth more than saving the 7-8 bucks. it was nice to actually do it myself but the hassle of purchasing the oil, pouring the old oil back in the bottle, taking the old oil back to auto shop for recycling, ordering the filter, then cleaning up after making a mess isnt really worth the 7-8 bucks.

The tIme i spent doing it myself... including going to the store twice.... and actually changing the oil took me approx 1 hour. At the dealer the oil change takes about 1/2 an hour. And during this time i can read something or catch up on some much needed ZZZ's in the nice waiting area.

Regardless of what i typed above.... i will probably change my own oil in between scheduled visits, 5000 miles without changing the filter....

This DIY is great.... and it would be really worth it for you MB owners that have dealers that charge an arm and a leg to change your oil. It is very easy to do. Im moving to the detroit area in june and i hope to find a dealer up there that charges 59 bucks or so...... if not ill most likely be doing the oil changes myself... an hour of my time is definately worth saving 30-40 bucks vs 7-8..

-carino

 

I just changed my oil but spilled a couple of drops on the belt, so when I restarted the engine, there was a loud squeeking noise that was getting louder and louder. I fugured that the oil got to the belt and pullies, that the pullies were slipping and making the noise. Ran to Walmart and got some belt dressing and sprayed the heck off the belts and pullies, squeek gone.

Oil change was harder than I thought since my oil cap wrench was not perfect size, next time I'm using an oil pump!

 

Thanks for providing the photos and information

 

Really great write-up. I going to be performing a Service B on my 06' C280 in a matter of days.

One thing I can't figure out -- what's the size of Oil Filter Cup Wrench needed?

 

thats pretty awesome. dont even needa get your hands derrrty

 

Oil filter wrench size is 74mm - 14 point.

 

How many times do you need to pump the extractor to get the oil out?

Something might be wrong with mine as after about getting 5 litres out, I basically had to manually pump out the remaining three litres. I tried adjusting the tube to ensure that it was pushed down as far as possible.

Is this normal?

 

Thanks 1st lite for the info.

Question solved thanks Moviela

 

Thanks for the info and pics. Very helpful thanks again.