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New MAF= engine stutter/hesitation
05-23-2014, 02:05 PM
#26
Newbie
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
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c240
car stalls but still drives.
Hi there,
I don't know too much about cars. I am a 24 years old female and I am kind of looking for help in finding out what kind of problem my car has. I drive a 2001 C240 and the problem it has been giving me is that my car stalls. When I say it stalls it doesn't shut down completly, it still runs but everything in the car itself is off. For exemble the Km meter is all the way down to 0, The gaz meter is all the way down to 0, radio is off, Signal doesn't work. But for some reason the car is still running. If I restart the car everything works back to normal. Do you smart mens have an idea what might be the issue with my car?
Thank you
I don't know too much about cars. I am a 24 years old female and I am kind of looking for help in finding out what kind of problem my car has. I drive a 2001 C240 and the problem it has been giving me is that my car stalls. When I say it stalls it doesn't shut down completly, it still runs but everything in the car itself is off. For exemble the Km meter is all the way down to 0, The gaz meter is all the way down to 0, radio is off, Signal doesn't work. But for some reason the car is still running. If I restart the car everything works back to normal. Do you smart mens have an idea what might be the issue with my car?
Thank you
05-23-2014, 03:10 PM
#27
Out Of Control!!
Your main problem is that you have a 2001; as this is the first year for these cars, there are tons of issues with them.
My suggestion to you is to get it inspected by a local independent shop that specializes in MBs or at least German cars; given your admission about cars, any of the normal options that would be given to you would be best looked at by the shop. The fact that it still drives (and doesn't really stall out; this would be classified more as a short in the electronics somewhere, battery starting to go bad, bad alternator or relay, or any of many other possible electronic gremlins in the system) means that it will most likely be ok to drive for a short time, but you should get it looked at sooner rather than later.
And not for nothing, but this isn't a bar, so the "smart mens" comment really won't get you very far here.
My suggestion to you is to get it inspected by a local independent shop that specializes in MBs or at least German cars; given your admission about cars, any of the normal options that would be given to you would be best looked at by the shop. The fact that it still drives (and doesn't really stall out; this would be classified more as a short in the electronics somewhere, battery starting to go bad, bad alternator or relay, or any of many other possible electronic gremlins in the system) means that it will most likely be ok to drive for a short time, but you should get it looked at sooner rather than later.
And not for nothing, but this isn't a bar, so the "smart mens" comment really won't get you very far here.
05-23-2014, 03:30 PM
#28
Newbie
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
c240
Your main problem is that you have a 2001; as this is the first year for these cars, there are tons of issues with them.
My suggestion to you is to get it inspected by a local independent shop that specializes in MBs or at least German cars; given your admission about cars, any of the normal options that would be given to you would be best looked at by the shop. The fact that it still drives (and doesn't really stall out; this would be classified more as a short in the electronics somewhere, battery starting to go bad, bad alternator or relay, or any of many other possible electronic gremlins in the system) means that it will most likely be ok to drive for a short time, but you should get it looked at sooner rather than later.
And not for nothing, but this isn't a bar, so the "smart mens" comment really won't get you very far here.
My suggestion to you is to get it inspected by a local independent shop that specializes in MBs or at least German cars; given your admission about cars, any of the normal options that would be given to you would be best looked at by the shop. The fact that it still drives (and doesn't really stall out; this would be classified more as a short in the electronics somewhere, battery starting to go bad, bad alternator or relay, or any of many other possible electronic gremlins in the system) means that it will most likely be ok to drive for a short time, but you should get it looked at sooner rather than later.
And not for nothing, but this isn't a bar, so the "smart mens" comment really won't get you very far here.
05-27-2014, 10:56 PM
#29
Super Moderator
Wow a young lady on the forum I am surprised you didn't get ambushed on here! Just turned 24 myself I feel so old now it sucks 
You should post a few pictures and tell us more about your car and stick around we are a fun group and are always interested in hearing about your experiences and options.
How long has this been going on? Does it every come and go? Curious what you find out keep us updated hope you have a good indy/dealer close by to help!
just to clarify I was saying you should post pics of car not yourself that would be creepy!
You should post a few pictures and tell us more about your car and stick around we are a fun group and are always interested in hearing about your experiences and options.
How long has this been going on? Does it every come and go? Curious what you find out keep us updated hope you have a good indy/dealer close by to help!
just to clarify I was saying you should post pics of car not yourself that would be creepy!
09-13-2014, 05:56 PM
#30
How did you know you needed a MAF? Did you remove it and bench test it? Did you run without for a while and things improved? I woud say on the C-class, more often than not, fuel trim errors are caused by a vacuum leak, especially if the car is running rough.
So do this, disconnect the MAF and drive around. The car should behave pretty close to normal. If it's still running rough, then it's not the MAF, check for vacuum leaks. If it runs well without the MAF, it's defective or if you got in on ebay or in a yard sale it's the wrong one (VW/Audi MAF's by Bosch look identical, cost much less and are not the same by any means).
It could be a fuel pressure issue, just put a fuel pressure guage on the rail and check, should be about 3.8 bar or 50PSI. Fuel pressure issues would not give you fuel trim errors, it would give you P030x codes for misfires.
So do this, disconnect the MAF and drive around. The car should behave pretty close to normal. If it's still running rough, then it's not the MAF, check for vacuum leaks. If it runs well without the MAF, it's defective or if you got in on ebay or in a yard sale it's the wrong one (VW/Audi MAF's by Bosch look identical, cost much less and are not the same by any means).
It could be a fuel pressure issue, just put a fuel pressure guage on the rail and check, should be about 3.8 bar or 50PSI. Fuel pressure issues would not give you fuel trim errors, it would give you P030x codes for misfires.
10-06-2019, 03:27 AM
#31
Senior Member
Being MAF'ed as we speak.
