Akebono Brake Pad Install/Review (+Bed-In & Afterthoughts)
#51
dont mean to thread jack but i just did this brake this weekend with zimmerman rotors and akebono euro ceramics. took some pix along the way as well and thought i would add them to this write up instead of starting my own thread. Also added some notes/observations.
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
#52
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C32 AMG
Wow, you did front and back?
Cool. The rotors in front are new?
And they're from Zimmerman, not MBZ? As someone asked?
What made you decide to go with zimmerman?
Did you sand all the grey paint off the front rotors? Or is that just an MB thing?
I am still very happy with my Akebono's up front.
Don't know what I was thinking when I did the rears with
stock type pads. Though I don't recall any sensors on the back.
But it's nice not doing brakes every 20K miles!
Cool. The rotors in front are new?
And they're from Zimmerman, not MBZ? As someone asked?
What made you decide to go with zimmerman?
Did you sand all the grey paint off the front rotors? Or is that just an MB thing?
I am still very happy with my Akebono's up front.
Don't know what I was thinking when I did the rears with
stock type pads. Though I don't recall any sensors on the back.
But it's nice not doing brakes every 20K miles!
i didnt sand anything that's how they came. the rear passenger brake definately had a brake pad sensor, well on my car anyways 02 c32.
did the bedding process twice (2 heat cycles, consecutives days) and it still seems to be working its way to full potential. following the process to a tee was hard with traffic, stop signs, lights, etc. in SF. Only drove about 20 miles so far but the pads are whisper quiet. I can give a much better review once i brake them in fully and get some miles on the pads and also the new tires.
#53
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03 c320
When you change out your caliper and rotor do you need to flush out your brake fluid? Cause i have a c320 and i want to upgrade to the 05+ calipers..so wheni change out the calipers..do i have to flush out the brake fluid?
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
You fluid should be flushed every 2 years.
You will need to bleed the brake when changing calipers.
I used about 1 quart of fluid when changing the front calipers, just to be sure I didn't get any bubbles when swapping the calipers.
And I did it alone, put a 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal to keep positive pressure on the line when swapping.
And then used a hand bleeding pump that includes fittings and a container that allows you to put fluid in so if it sucks back it doesn't get any air.
Don't buy a cheap plastic one, mine was sprewing little chunks of plastic out into the expelled fluid!
My cailpers came prefilled from mercedes with fluid in them.
You will need to bleed the brake when changing calipers.
I used about 1 quart of fluid when changing the front calipers, just to be sure I didn't get any bubbles when swapping the calipers.
And I did it alone, put a 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal to keep positive pressure on the line when swapping.
And then used a hand bleeding pump that includes fittings and a container that allows you to put fluid in so if it sucks back it doesn't get any air.
Don't buy a cheap plastic one, mine was sprewing little chunks of plastic out into the expelled fluid!
My cailpers came prefilled from mercedes with fluid in them.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 05-08-2008 at 02:02 PM.
#55
Anyone have a pic of the old pads. I have some pad movement from front to back with the pins in, like the holes in the pads are to big(akobono). I keep getting a click when stopping from rev to drive or the drive to rev. Pads are touching the calipers top and bottom when stopping in rev to drive.
#57
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'01 c320
Just quick question, where did you get the akebono front pad?would you give me the links?I searched in tirerack.com but they only have the rear one. and also did the oem brake sensor fit with akebono pads as the guy who posted the DIY brake change said it didnt fit.
thanks
thanks
#59
Your new pads don't squeel because you broke them in properly.... not because of who manufacters them or what material they are made of. Everyone should read the Stop Tech explanation of the importance of proper pad bed in. Also, the incorrectly tagged "warped rotor" symptom is a product of improper bedding in of pads.
#61
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
i got mine off tirerack.com, but i have a c32 so the pads are different. Mine did have the holes for the sensors because i replaced the ones i had with new ones. This was for the front though.
#62
what an absolute crock of ****...im in the process of changing my pads now..i have the Akebono rears but I cant get the fronts...how utterly retarded is that!?
What do you guys suggest I go with for the front? I have been suggested Hawx and EBC yellow stuff....
What do you guys suggest I go with for the front? I have been suggested Hawx and EBC yellow stuff....
#64
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#67
MBWorld Fanatic!
dont mean to thread jack but i just did this brake this weekend with zimmerman rotors and akebono euro ceramics. took some pix along the way as well and thought i would add them to this write up instead of starting my own thread. Also added some notes/observations.
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
#68
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2005 W203 SS
im selling a set for the rear if anyone is interested...
thanks
https://mbworld.org/forums/exterior-...good-pics.html
thanks
https://mbworld.org/forums/exterior-...good-pics.html
#70
they do now or at least on tirerack shows them for a 2003 c230 coupe
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...3&autoModClar=
Estimated Availability: 07/03/09
Manufacturer Part #: EUR872
these also show up under c230 sedan, so they are the same as the coupe.
Makes me wish i didn't replace my pads with OEM last month. Btw even when the brake pad sensor trips, you still have about 1/4th left to go until the pad wears out... so people out there don't panic and start replacing the pad as soon as the sensor trips. You can safely drive another 1000-2000 miles.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...3&autoModClar=
Estimated Availability: 07/03/09
Manufacturer Part #: EUR872
these also show up under c230 sedan, so they are the same as the coupe.
Makes me wish i didn't replace my pads with OEM last month. Btw even when the brake pad sensor trips, you still have about 1/4th left to go until the pad wears out... so people out there don't panic and start replacing the pad as soon as the sensor trips. You can safely drive another 1000-2000 miles.
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
OK, I'm trying to figure out which ones I need for the rear on the coupe.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 06-26-2009 at 03:44 PM.
#72
OK, I'm trying to figure out which ones I need for the rear on the coupe.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
What exactly is the "sport package" version... and how do you know if your benz came with a sport package? I'm not quite sure... :s
#73
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white and whiter
OK, I'm trying to figure out which ones I need for the rear on the coupe.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
If someone would PM me the Akebono PN, I would appreciate it.
It's either EUR779 per Rockauto or tirerack specifies EUR873 "for sport package".
Whats the difference?
When I look up the rears for the C32 they're EUR603 so thats not it either.
Looking up rotors on rockauto also, it's not clear which ones I need.
#74
Brakes and Rotors experience
I just had to redo my brakes and rotors after just 40k miles and think sharing my experience may save some people some time and money.
I have a 2005 C230 w/ the sport package. About 40k miles ago I installed Zimmerman rotors and Morse Ceramic pads. Recently the car developed a pulsing/shake while braking. The rotors warped! Rotors warp from overheating. I'm not sure whether the pads or the rotors, or both, caused the warping.
When I removed the zimmerman rotors they looked like crap. They were all rusted out on the inside and edges, and I live in California, more than 50 miles from the coast. The brake pads had more then half their life left and looked as if they were wearing evenly.
Last night I fixed the problem with new rotors and brake pads. This time I went with balo rotors from autopartswarehouse for $142 for the pair. I was pleasantly surprised with the rotors. Balo is made in Germany and the rotors truly look like a high quality product. I can't believe they were only $71 each.
I decided to go with Raybestos semi-metallic brake pads. Semi-metallic is what originally came on the car, and I am not interested in risking warping the rotors again by trying another ceramic pad. Raybestos has a great reputation and I've used their semi-metallic pads on other cars.
Although I don't know what warped the rotors, I do feel the zimmerman rotors are not as high a quality as the balo rotors. But if you don't even want to try balo, you can buy genuine oem rotors from getmercedesparts for only $97 a rotor.
I will not use zimmerman rotors again, nor will I use ceramic pads again until there are more contributions, including mileage driven, in forums like this regarding their performace and longevity.
Kevin
Here's some part numbers I bought for the 2005 C230 w/ sport package and the two piston rotors:
Front rotors: 2034211312
OEM Brakes: 003-420-51-20
Raybestos Brake Pads: PGD1121M
More about Balo: http://www.racepages.com/brand/balo.html
I have a 2005 C230 w/ the sport package. About 40k miles ago I installed Zimmerman rotors and Morse Ceramic pads. Recently the car developed a pulsing/shake while braking. The rotors warped! Rotors warp from overheating. I'm not sure whether the pads or the rotors, or both, caused the warping.
When I removed the zimmerman rotors they looked like crap. They were all rusted out on the inside and edges, and I live in California, more than 50 miles from the coast. The brake pads had more then half their life left and looked as if they were wearing evenly.
Last night I fixed the problem with new rotors and brake pads. This time I went with balo rotors from autopartswarehouse for $142 for the pair. I was pleasantly surprised with the rotors. Balo is made in Germany and the rotors truly look like a high quality product. I can't believe they were only $71 each.
I decided to go with Raybestos semi-metallic brake pads. Semi-metallic is what originally came on the car, and I am not interested in risking warping the rotors again by trying another ceramic pad. Raybestos has a great reputation and I've used their semi-metallic pads on other cars.
Although I don't know what warped the rotors, I do feel the zimmerman rotors are not as high a quality as the balo rotors. But if you don't even want to try balo, you can buy genuine oem rotors from getmercedesparts for only $97 a rotor.
I will not use zimmerman rotors again, nor will I use ceramic pads again until there are more contributions, including mileage driven, in forums like this regarding their performace and longevity.
Kevin
Here's some part numbers I bought for the 2005 C230 w/ sport package and the two piston rotors:
Front rotors: 2034211312
OEM Brakes: 003-420-51-20
Raybestos Brake Pads: PGD1121M
More about Balo: http://www.racepages.com/brand/balo.html
Last edited by capecodkev; 11-21-2009 at 03:23 PM. Reason: More about Balo: http://www.racepages.com/brand/balo.html