help: brake diy
#1
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F10
help: brake diy
I did search the forum and didn't find a car specific brake diy.
Has anyone here replaced front pads AND ROTOR on a 2005 c230?
Few questions:
1. Is there anything we have to disable before removing the calipers?
2. What do you use to remove the coating on the new rotors?
3. What else am I missing?
by the way I'll be using an oe pads and rotors, the sensor didn't go off yet so I'll be re-using the old one.
thanks guys,
i'll post pictures of my work, if I can do it.
Has anyone here replaced front pads AND ROTOR on a 2005 c230?
Few questions:
1. Is there anything we have to disable before removing the calipers?
2. What do you use to remove the coating on the new rotors?
3. What else am I missing?
by the way I'll be using an oe pads and rotors, the sensor didn't go off yet so I'll be re-using the old one.
thanks guys,
i'll post pictures of my work, if I can do it.
#2
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
I did search the forum and didn't find a car specific brake diy.
Has anyone here replaced front pads AND ROTOR on a 2005 c230?
Few questions:
1. Is there anything we have to disable before removing the calipers?
2. What do you use to remove the coating on the new rotors?
3. What else am I missing?
by the way I'll be using an oe pads and rotors, the sensor didn't go off yet so I'll be re-using the old one.
thanks guys,
i'll post pictures of my work, if I can do it.
Has anyone here replaced front pads AND ROTOR on a 2005 c230?
Few questions:
1. Is there anything we have to disable before removing the calipers?
2. What do you use to remove the coating on the new rotors?
3. What else am I missing?
by the way I'll be using an oe pads and rotors, the sensor didn't go off yet so I'll be re-using the old one.
thanks guys,
i'll post pictures of my work, if I can do it.
1. Disable? As in ABS? No, nothing out of the ordinary.
2. I use gas with a rag, and wipe the rotor clean on both sides. When I'm done with the install, I do it again in case I get grease on the rotor.
3. I'm guessing this is not your first rodeo. You'll be fine. I recommend blasting the pistons in the extension mode with brake cleaner. You dont' want to push brake dust into the cylinder.
Are you doing this today? If so, I can keep checking in on you to make sure you got this done. I'm sure there is a DIY with pics somewher. Just need to search.
E
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thanks for your help, i'll clean the rotors just like you said. i have done rotots and pad replacements on japanese cars before but never on this car. i'll post pics during the job.
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has anyone on this forum actually done a rotor replacement on a 2005 c230? what is the sbc that i'm reading on 211s, do we have the same thing that needs to be disabled, it sounds like it's a must-do on 211s? thanks
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EVE
Yo!
When I did a rotor swap I did just that... straight swap. That 'sbc' might be something electronic that our 203s have manually anyway. Other than leaving it in park and working on level ground, you're good to go. Are you doing the liquids part too?
flip
I have a little write-up somewhere on my akebono replacement process?
When I did a rotor swap I did just that... straight swap. That 'sbc' might be something electronic that our 203s have manually anyway. Other than leaving it in park and working on level ground, you're good to go. Are you doing the liquids part too?
flip
I have a little write-up somewhere on my akebono replacement process?
#6
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Note: In my opinion, the hardest part in dealing w/ removing the rotors was taking off the little screw that holds the rotor down to the suspension. Took lots of cursing...
-j0hn
-j0hn
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#8
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#9
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That feature is part of the brake by wire system on the W211 they eventually got rid off.
One thing to do that's important on these cars is to open the bleed screw while compressing the pistons or you will force dirt back into the abs/bas/esp system. Of course once you do that you have to bleed the brake system but that's OK, you should change brake fluid every 2 years.
One thing to do that's important on these cars is to open the bleed screw while compressing the pistons or you will force dirt back into the abs/bas/esp system. Of course once you do that you have to bleed the brake system but that's OK, you should change brake fluid every 2 years.
#10
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I thought you have to do this whenever compressing pistons, period. Regardless of this system or not, doesn't it prevent other seals and what nots from breaking, by allowing some of the fluid to leak out and thus relieving some of the pressure?
#11
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You can get away with it on non-ABS cars, I do it all the time and never a problem. It's certainly best practice in all cases. I doubt the piston seals would break from that, it's more of pushing the dirtiest grungiest part of the brake fluid back up into the lines.