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Front Brake Caliper - Broken bleeder screw

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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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whitecar2003's Avatar
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2003 C230 Coupe (6MT)
Front Brake Caliper - Broken bleeder screw

So talk about a brake job gone bad. The bleeder valve on the left (driver side) front caliper on my 2003 C230K was rusted/stuck and the stupid thing snapped off without much effort from a flimsy 1/4" drive socket wrench.

Was able to remove the caliper by unscrewing the brake hose and the local dealer only charged me $7 for a new bleed screw, but after three broken extractor tools and various broken drill bits I've given up removing the old valve parts from the caliper iron. Can't believe how stubborn this thing was... I tried everything (WD-40, torch, finesse, force) and no luck. Good news is that the caliper still works fine and holds fluid, bad news is that I can't properly bleed the brakes and I'm stuck with softer pedal effort than I want.

Any suggestions welcome, but I'm fairly confident that I'll need to replace the caliper. Anyone modify/upgrade to new powder coated fancy brakes and want to sell me your old ones? None of the on-line sites for parts seem to list the front OE calipers for sale and I'm afraid to ask the dealer what they'd charge? Also would like to buy another set of stock OE wheels to save the trouble of switching the snow tires on/off. If you have a set in the attic, let me know. Thanks, Dale buckeye_94@hotmail.com
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Originally Posted by whitecar2003
So talk about a brake job gone bad. The bleeder valve on the left (driver side) front caliper on my 2003 C230K was rusted/stuck and the stupid thing snapped off without much effort from a flimsy 1/4" drive socket wrench.

Was able to remove the caliper by unscrewing the brake hose and the local dealer only charged me $7 for a new bleed screw, but after three broken extractor tools and various broken drill bits I've given up removing the old valve parts from the caliper iron. Can't believe how stubborn this thing was... I tried everything (WD-40, torch, finesse, force) and no luck. Good news is that the caliper still works fine and holds fluid, bad news is that I can't properly bleed the brakes and I'm stuck with softer pedal effort than I want.

Any suggestions welcome, but I'm fairly confident that I'll need to replace the caliper. Anyone modify/upgrade to new powder coated fancy brakes and want to sell me your old ones? None of the on-line sites for parts seem to list the front OE calipers for sale and I'm afraid to ask the dealer what they'd charge? Also would like to buy another set of stock OE wheels to save the trouble of switching the snow tires on/off. If you have a set in the attic, let me know. Thanks, Dale buckeye_94@hotmail.com

That is BEYOND frustrating. You did everything I would have done.

Figure out who has a bigger sized bleeder nipple, (if that even exists), and tap the caliper to that size.

I'd be a really nervous with a soft people. Thats a no go in my book. If you don't want to do it, I bet a machine shop could even heli-arc to the stock size, and then you rebuild the caliper. I'm a bit nervous about shavings getting in the line.

E
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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02 C240 Black
I would try to get the bleeder out before I buy a new caliper. First I would drill out the bleeder screw bore a little bit to weaken it and allow the use of a larger extractor. Lube the drill bit so the shavings stick to it. Then I would use an oxygen acetylene torch to get the caliper cherry red around the bleeder. Have someone else heat it and then you turn the extractor while the metal is still cherry hot. Once you get your bleeder out. Let it cool completely and bleed the brakes. You probably risk damaging the piston seal getting the caliper this hot, but I have never had to replace a caliper after performing this procedure.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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PM'd you.

Last edited by coin; Mar 3, 2008 at 08:28 PM.
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