GermanCarShow

Hello. I just got my 2006 C230 6-speed sport sedan in November 2007. It is my daily driver. I've started racing it this year, and by racing I mean autocross and HPDE (High Performance Drivers Education) track days. I'm keeping the car stock this year as I learn how it behaves at speed. My only change is a seperate set of wheels/tires for race day, and they are not even R compound.

Looking forward, what modifications should I make for better performance? Here's a list I've accumulated, please comment on them and add your ideas or experiences.

Brakes
- Complete kit, upgrading to C55 brakes or a Brembo kit or something.
- Component upgrades (pads, 2-piece rotors, SS braided brake lines, racing fluid, etc.)
- Air ducting to the front brakes.

Wheels/Tires
- Upgrade from 17" to 18" wheels to allow for larger brake rotors/calipers.
- Get super light weight wheels.
- R compound. If I have the cash: one set for autocross and one set for track.

Suspension/Alignment
- I don't know much about this area, please enlighten me!

Weight
- There must be some way to make this pig weigh less. I have the fold-down rear seats. Are they difficult to remove? What can I easily remove on Friday for a race on Saturday, then put right back in on Sunday?

Intake/Exhaust
- Are there really any significant power gains here?

Miscellaneous
- What else helps?


Thanks for your input. I hope to get significanly faster as I get more experience and spend more money!

e1000

Don't bother with the brakes. 2 piston fixed calipers are more than adequate to stop your car and they're equivalent to some other BBK's.

If you're going to get some wheels, go for 19"s

Lots of suspension options. Go for coilovers for adjustablility

There are some ways to save weight. You could always remove your spare and jack out of the trunk. Another popular mod is to get a smaller battery.

No gains in modifying an airbox, esp on the 2.5L M272.

Benzalot

For what it is, the 2006 C230 is perfect. If you want a race car you should have bought an AMG. What you are asking and wanting to do does not make sense. If you want to cut weight, why would you want to add heavier 18" or 19" wheels. In addition, you sound rather immature and ungrateful when you refer to your car a "Pig". I have a the same model car and it drives like a big go cart. No, it is not as fast as my E430, but is actually more fun to drive. Mercedes Benz has been building state of the art cars for over 100 years. What makes you think you can improve on their design? Mods or for cheap cars and kids. Personally, I hate *******ized cars of any make but it is your money and your car.

GermanCarShow

e1000,

Thanks for your reply. Where did the username come from, a 10 liter E-Class???

With just 1 track day and 1 autocross, I'm still getting used to the brakes. I was reading in an AMG forum about two-piece floating rotors and how they save weight and reduce brake fade. It was interesting and I think deserves more research.

What are two or three of the best companies to consider when shopping for light weight wheels, in 18" or 19" size, that are tough enough for the track?

I really don't know jack about suspension. Can you explain what coilovers are and their benefits over MB stock design/engineering?

Yes, I always empty the trunk of tools, tire, etc... My old (W124) E420 had a rear seat bottom that unclipped and lifted right out. I believe the rear seat back was held in with only 3 screws. I haven't figured out how to remove these W203 folding rear seats.

GermanCarShow

Whoa there, Benzalot!

For what it is, the 2006 C230 is perfect. If you want a race car you should have bought an AMG.
You assume too much. I bought this C230 for two reasons: (1) It had no sunroof, which allows me the headroom to wear a helmet in the car and sit in a normal driving position. Yes, I am tall and require no sunroof in the car. (2) It was a great deal from a fellow MBCA member. It was under $23,000, had only 12,000 miles on it, and still had 2.5 years of factory warranty remaining. So, you try finding a low milage, warrantied AMG with no sunroof for that price!

What you are asking and wanting to do does not make sense. If you want to cut weight, why would you want to add heavier 18" or 19" wheels.
I know larger wheels probably weigh more (maybe not more than these 22 pound stock 17" wheels!), but I would probably require the larger size if I put a large brake kit on. I don't see NASCAR or F1 cars riding on 14" wheels to save weight, they need the big brakes!

In addition, you sound rather immature and ungrateful when you refer to your car a "Pig". I have a the same model car and it drives like a big go cart.
No, I'm not immature or ungrateful. Maybe "pig" was too strong a word for you, but there are sedans (WRX, Evo) out there that weigh hundreds less than this 3,405 pound C230.

Mercedes Benz has been building state of the art cars for over 100 years. What makes you think you can improve on their design?
Because their design is a compromise between safety, reliability, comfort, and performance. Over the next couple years, I would like to push my car down the performance part of that equation. Many years from now, when I've bought and paid for another daily driver, I would like to pull the whole interior out of this car, install a roll cage, install a racing seat with HANS, replace the 2.5 liter with a 3.5 liter (can't go bigger and keep the stock manual transmission), and just go "whole hog" as they say. (Pun intended!)

Mods or for cheap cars and kids.
Maybe I'm just a big old kid!

Have you ever driven your MB on a race track, or even in an autocross? It is exhilerating and addictive to people like me, but it quickly exposes the weaknesses of the car at its performance limits. Keep in mind, I bought the car with the intent of performance driving, I'm just looking for other like-minded people who can help me make it the best it can be.

Now, do you have anything to say that is helpful??

e1000

If you're autocrossing, there are a couple of choices. I'd say toss the factory pads and get some nice agressive ceramic ones. They improve the brakes quite a bit for track use. BTW, the stock 2-piston fixed calipers are made by Brembo.

As far as all out upgrades, you have a plethora of options. The first would be to go for C32/C55 4-piston fixed calipers and the accompanying rotors. They are slightly larger in dia, at 13.6". Straight bolt on, easy mod.

Next up is the 14.1" 6-piston calipers and rotors from the SLK55/CLK63. These do use 2-piece floating rotors but they are EXPENSIVE. I think the list price on each rotor (just the rotor) is about $600. Again, should be a pretty straightforward swap.

The hardest setup would be to go for the E55/63 brake setup. 8-piston fixed calipers. These will require surgery.

If you want to replace the rear brakes, I'd say go for the rears from the SLK55/CLK63. I belive they are 4-piston fixed calipers as opposed to the stock single piston floating calipers on the C230.

I am not absolutely certain, but I believe the 6-piston setup off of the SLK55/CLK63 is the lightest setup of the bunch, the calipers weight less than the 4-piston units from the C32/C55. Rotors wight a LOT less because of the aluminum hat and 2-piece construction.


Wheels. wheels. Not sure about which ones are lightweight. I DO know that the C32 guys like to use a 17" rear wheel up front with 245's mounted on them to get rid of some understeer. Of course, if you get the gigantic brakes you won't be able to fit 17"s. Also remember that even the stock calipers protrude quite a bit and not all 18' and 19" wheel designs will clear the caliper.

Another thing to consider is a simple ECU tune. Not sure how much HP they are good for on the 2.5L but every little bit counts.

Seems like the exhaust is pretty good on these cars too. One point of poor design are the exhaust manifolds. A good set of headers should give you some gains. I know Kleemann makes a set but they're VERY expensive, might even be cheaper to have a custom set fabricated.

e1000

I almost forgot. The 2005+ sport sedans come with AMG sway bars (or VERY close to the same thickness). I believe H&R makes even larger ones for our cars though.

GermanCarShow

e1000,

Again, very helpful response. Thanks!

If you're autocrossing, there are a couple of choices. I'd say toss the factory pads and get some nice agressive ceramic ones.
Yes, before changing all the brakes, I think ceramic/metallic brake pads (Porterfield, Carbotech) and racing brake fluid are the first thing I should do. I might even do that this year if the current brakes wear enough to need replacing.

As far as all out upgrades, you have a plethora of options.....Next up are the 14.1" 6-piston calipers and rotors from the SLK55/CLK63. These do use 2-piece floating rotors but they are EXPENSIVE. I think the list price on each rotor (just the rotor) is about $600. Again, should be a pretty straightforward swap. If you want to replace the rear brakes, I'd say go for the rears from the SLK55/CLK63. I belive they are 4-piston fixed calipers as opposed to the stock single piston floating calipers on the C230.
Sounds like the best choice for a total brake upgrade would be SLK55 brakes all the way around. When doing something like this, would the brake booster & master cylinder need to be replaced? How about any of the electronics?

Another thing to consider is a simple ECU tune. Not sure how much HP they are good for on the 2.5L but every little bit counts.
This might be something to consider. I'm always hesitant to mess with factory computers.

A good set of headers should give you some gains. I know Kleemann makes a set but they're VERY expensive, might even be cheaper to have a custom set fabricated.
Maybe that can be done a couple years from now, unless I really look at upgrading to the 3.5 liter engine.

anthuny85

wtf?

i have 18 inch superleggeras that weight 18 lbs, hell of a lot lighter than any stock mercedes wheel, you can improve any car, car companys often hold back due to gas mileage and other issues that they most likely compromise for a base level car and leave the rest to amg/race versions of the same lineup. why do you think every car has a aftermarket parts lineup? different strokes for different folks. if you wanna drive your car stock then do so, this man is asking how to improve upon his new c class..

if you want power gains, upgrade the intake to a AMG airbox setup, its good for power, also change exhaust and get rid of your secondary cats, Tune your car via powerchip/speed innovations, get light weight wheels. Kleemann offers headers good for 25- 30hp/tq. you can get good gains out of this little car, just gotta fork out some cash.

e1000

AFAIK, no, just upgrade the rotors, and calipers. Might need some modification of the brake shield in the rears. I'll PM you all the part numbers.

Here's what they look like - taken from Harry Madan's car (warning, uncontrollable drooling may occur)

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...246&highlight=

Benzalot

Nope... got nothing to add. I guess you got me told. May you make many aftermarket vendors rich by feeding your "pig".

FrankW

"Mods are for cheap cars and kids"...that's about the most ignorant comment i've heard in a while.

GermanCarShow

Guys, thanks for the support, but let's not let this thread slide into people slamming each other. I like the ideas/solutions provided so far.

Has anyone created air ducts to cool the front brakes on a W203? The fog lights appear to have a plate surrounding them. They (the plates) may be able to be removed and then new air flow captured from there?

I have had other people recommend the Superleggeras. I'll look into those if/when I get bigger brakes that require bigger wheels.

Not only did I buy this car with 2.5 years of warranty left on it, I bought 2 more years from the dealership because the W203 does not have the most stellar reputation for reliability. Do powertrain modifications void warranty? I would assume a chip would, and probably the headers and exhaust. Would a different MB air box void a warranty? These more expensive options are far down the road for me for sure, but it would be nice to know what I might be getting into.

GermanCarShow

Here's a conversation from Harry's thread in the C32/C55 forum:

LOL, ya i know about time coilovers got put on. i dont know if i want to go with coil-overs it has not been a very persuasive argument. so i have not really been sold on them yet. but we will see what happens, i dont want to deal with rubbing and bottoming out.

Drive someone else's C32 with suspension upgrades and you'll know how ****ty the C32 handles on the stock North American suspension. Or just drive a C55 and see how it handles. retuned spring rate and damper rate of the C55 made a whole lot of difference.

So would a C55 stock suspension make that much of a difference on a C32? I have a friend who is up grading this stock C55 suspension to some coil overs so i can possibly buy his setup. Do u think it would be worth it?

It would make some what of a difference since the C55 suspension is firmer and stiffer, but it depends on how much he wants to offer them to you for. Even by just changing the springs to H&R, Eibach, or RENNtech the understeering characteristic will be a lot improved.

I looked up "coilover" and found this site. It's for off-road, but looks like a detailed description:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...lovers/Part_1/

Would a C55 suspension be a good upgrade for my C230 Sport Sedan suspension, or are they not dramaticlly difference given the price? I know suspension is a general term (shocks, springs, sway bar, bushings, etc.). Maybe H&R, Eibach, or RENNtech coilovers is the first (cheapest) step?

benzito911

good info here guys!! thanks.

e1000

no the 2005+ Sport sedans are already lower and stiffer than the pre-facelift cars.

TruTaing

Good post about the differences in OEM brake options for the w203.

Just curious: Has anyone gone into detail about what surgery is required to fit the w211 amg brakes?

moosejaw

Do you plan on drifting your C230?

GermanCarShow

No. It looks like fun, but I'll be spending too much money as it is on keeping the car from sliding. I can't spend any on making the car slide.

GermanCarShow

Oh, OK. So, what would be an intelligent suspension upgrade?

Mu9enx

fully adjustable coilovers. you can go KW's or Tein SS

GermanCarShow

I found these:

KN Applications for C-Class

Tein product chart

Eibach home page

H&R W203 parts

RENNtech catalog (PDF file) of W203 with prices

Bilstein catalog of W203 parts

MattRobertson

I'll say right off that I am largely ignorant on the W203 platform car that I drive insofar as mods are concerned, but I have a near-dedicated track car that I run around road courses in California a fair bit. I've just about rebuilt the thing from the ground up, and based on all of that I have a couple of thoughts.

1. Buy the smallest wheels you can fit around your brake calipers. Or maybe here's a better way to look at it: Figure out the available tire sizes first and buy the wheels second. R compound rubber options start getting mighty scarce as wheel size increases. 19" rubber is almost nonexistent (I believe Hoosier presently has two options and they stand alone in the market at present). I personally need 20" wheels to clear my brakes and there are zero choices available (I use Bridgestone RE-050A's). So pick the tire and price that gives you the most options... and don't count on picking the right tire right off the bat. You may find the tire you thought would work doesn't have strong enough sidewalls in your application, is rolling over and causing wear that is too severe to maintain a safety margin, and you have to go to a Plan B. Make sure there is a Plan B on the market. Preferably a C and D too.

1a. One way or another, its not the motor that makes the car go faster. Its not the brakes that make it stop faster. Its the tires. Sure other stuff makes the tires do that, but if they don't stick to the ground you are done. Your single biggest upgrade to your car is going to be sticky tires that hold up to the stress of a track day. And as you begin your learning curve you will eat up tires fast. Figure as a beginner you could be looking at only one or two days use out of a set of tires. As you get better that will go up. But be prepared for the expense.

2. At least until you have some track time in this car under your belt, and know how it will behave under stress, be prepared to bleed your brakes in the paddock to replace roasted fluid. Maybe you won't have to do that, but get the procedure down because nothing will end your day faster than cooked fluid. Remember that big brakes are more about repeated use than they are about a single hard stop. That goes to the fluid again. You will get much of the way to where you need to be with pads and fluid. I like Wilwood 570 because it has a very high dry boiling point for its price. You can get higher boiling points but the cost goes thru the roof and if you are tracking the car with any frequency you will go thru things like fluid, pads and tires pretty fast. So buy smart.

3. Look into poly bushings. Bushings open up a whole can of worms insofar as discussion is concerned. They may not even be available for your car. But they do neat things for you in a track environment.

4. When it comes to brake ducts, if you don't have them now you may need them. Heat cycling kills rotors. No way around that. Ducts help that and in turn help prolong rotor life. My rotors peak just over 1200 degrees on a track like Laguna Seca, and I will give new rotors spiderweb cracks after a single day. To help combat that I put in powered brake ducts (a $20 4" marine bilge blower connected to 650-degree silicone hose in turn connected to a spindle duct to feed the directionally-vaned rotor center). They are good for about a 200-degree temperature drop. Consider it if you see rotors dying faster than you are willing to buy replacements. About that... you may be able to buy dirt cheap rotors. Use them for a day on track and simply throw them away. If you get two or even three days out of them... consider it a bonus.

A 230 is not a track car but hey you can still have fun with it. I bought a C280 because of how much fun the 230 was. In fact I was buying a 230 until I test-drove a cushier 280 (which I use as a long-distance commuter). You will get enormous satisfaction from making a sleeper that lets you force a mediocre driver in a faster car to give you a point-by. After your driving skills catch up :-)

GermanCarShow

Matt,

Thanks for the detailed infomation!

So is brake size or wheel size more important? That is, on stock brakes I can not go smaller than my existing 17" wheels. So, do I limit myself to that for weight savings, or do I get bigger brakes for better stopping power and sacrifice weight because of the larger wheels? (For me, larger brakes are a couple summers away because of the expense of them and the wheels together. Other people may have a more immidiate need for this info.)

Yes, I know I'm learning so I didn't get R compound tires because I felt I would trash them too easily with poor driving technique. I bought Yoko Advan AD07. I'll get R compound when those wear out.

I will look into this. Sounds like a less expensive upgrade than some other items.

How does one know the temps their brake components reach?

So that's less than a $100 modification, and very useful! Are blower motors necessary? I would have thought that the air forced by the speed of the car would be enough. I will PM you about the details.

I'm in the MBCA and I like my Benz for a daily driver and occasional track days. I know it's not a great track car, but I can't have another car and I need this sedan. I started doing autocrosses and track days in my 1994 E420, but sold it to get this smaller sedan with sportier stock suspension, steering, and brakes. After this season is over, I'll start upgrading little things to see what can be done to make it faster and more fun. The driving skill really needs to improve as well!!!!

Thanks!

MattRobertson

17" wheels are fine for finding rubber I would think. But be sure and go to Tire Rack and start looking at track tires. Paw your way thru all the manufacturers. Don't be too picky about diameter since a bit of speedo/odo error is not going to be the end of the world for a day. Find good low profile tires that aren't too wide and as long as you keep the fronts and rears the same diameter you will not run afoul of the ESP system. Once you find acceptable sizes for a given wheel size, you have found your rim size.

I'm not so sure I would worry about big brakes with regard to wheel size just yet. You don't know for sure you will need them. Consider the possibility of just selling the track rims if they turn out to be too small a year or more down the road.

Yes big brakes can be expensive, but it sounds like you are getting some decent advice on Daimler parts. Hopefully those are take-offs so you don't have to buy new but remember you are perhaps not limited to Daimler parts. Brake size is not primary... pad choice is. Brembos were available for my application but their pad choices were a joke. Looks like Dave Zeckhausen has done some work with the W202 platform so he may have some thoughts on yours. Check him out at zeckhausen.com. Also Todd at tceperformanceproducts.com is the big cheese for Wilwood kits in the U.S. He may be able to do something and imho Wilwood offers the most street vs. pad selection and arguably the best value in big brakes. You can change from street to track pads in 10 minutes, counting the time it takes to pull the wheel.

Your best almost-free upgrade is to add in performance pads and bump up the fluid - once you have confirmed that stock fluid has a low dry boiling point (as is typical with a passenger car). Here is a great page for fluid but I'll tell you from experience that the best budget/performance fluid is Wilwood 570 and the ATE blue/amber is a close second.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...pID=BRAKEFLUID

Its not all about money either. Wilwood 570 fluid will last for many weeks in the car. For a year or so when used on the street. The 600+ degree stuff is only good for about two weeks before it starts sucking up so much moisture that its no better than what you can buy at Pep Boys. So don't go crazy on the fancy fluid.

And get yourself some stainless brake lines. They do *nothing* to help stop the car but they give great pedal feel and a nice feelgood to the driver.

Don't I wish... I have poly 'everywhere' and it was more than double what I paid for my coilovers. Its not always that way, and all poly compounds are not created equal as performance goes. They aren't all brutally hard or ridiculously noisy... but some are. Make bushings the icing on the cake and do what you can with shocks and sways first. It can be argued that bushings are the foundation of the suspension and should be done first, but the guys I heard make that argument... make bushings.

A can o' brake temp paint for the rotors (paint the outside edge facing the fender in just a little spot) and temp stickers for the calipers.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4974
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...oduct=THERMAX6

Its important to test the calipers. Figure if they are alloy and you see temps in the 350+ range you are heating them to the point where they will compromise their structural integrity to a degree... permanently. This will cause uneven pad wear at the least, as the caliper flexes. Stickers are a cheap diagnostic. Don't bother using them on the street or even an autocross. Those are penny ante stresses compared to a road course and figure your brakes will be way safe in any autocross or even the twistiest mountain road.

No its more than that. The hi temp silicone hose alone is $65 if you find the smart place to buy, and $120+ if you don't. The blowers add another $50-60 so right there you are well over $100. Add in the spindle duct fabrication (Don't just blow air on the rotor surface, thats a substandard performer that can actually screw up your rotors if done really wrong rather than just wrong), fitment, time... you get the idea.

Since I am cracking rotors after a single day on the track I was looking for max duty. Powered ducts are not unheard of in professional racing; especially circle-track. More cooling is better - period - on a rotor you are heat cycling as severely as you will on a road course. Its all physics. Lighter cars have less trouble than heavier ones but rotor replacement is an expense to expect if you plan to drive on a road course. Autocross... not so much since that tends to be a lot easier on the car.