Which way does M271 27mm crank bolt turn to loosen?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 44
From: PA
09 CLK550
Lol,
Yeah I was looking for a way to rename the thread after we really got into the project but didn't see a way.
"Can you provide some detail on how you got the timing set up with the cams and all?"
As you can kinda see in this pic, there are 'arrows' molded into the metal frame that hold the cams down:
Here is a better closeup:
Those 'arrows' line up with the 'notch' in the cam (circled in red) that looks like this: |
We set the crank at Top Dead Center via the marking on the front of the wheel. It lines up with the protrusion from the timing chain cover circled here:
With the crank set at TDC, and the intake cam lined up, we used large crescent wrenches to turn the exhaust cam towards the intake cam. This pulled the chain tensioner tight, brought the links close enough and lined up the exhaust cam notch.
ghetto. but it worked
With the exhaust cam lined up we were able to slide the master link into the chain and clamp it down.
2 of the head bolts were broke because my friend and I are retarded and we both misread N/m as Ft/lbs and over-torqued them, lol.
Same issue with one of the 20 bolts that hold the cams down. Misread the specs and over-torqued it too. No big deal though, we got very good extracting them
I have put ~200mi on the car since the rebuild and it has been flawless. Took it to MB of Devon and it passed inspection and a more thorough checkever I requested.
I will actually be listing it for sale shortly, waiting for a PA plate to come in for it.
If you have any other questions please feel free. There are lots more pics available.
Yeah I was looking for a way to rename the thread after we really got into the project but didn't see a way.
"Can you provide some detail on how you got the timing set up with the cams and all?"
As you can kinda see in this pic, there are 'arrows' molded into the metal frame that hold the cams down:
Here is a better closeup:
Those 'arrows' line up with the 'notch' in the cam (circled in red) that looks like this: |
We set the crank at Top Dead Center via the marking on the front of the wheel. It lines up with the protrusion from the timing chain cover circled here:
With the crank set at TDC, and the intake cam lined up, we used large crescent wrenches to turn the exhaust cam towards the intake cam. This pulled the chain tensioner tight, brought the links close enough and lined up the exhaust cam notch.
ghetto. but it worked
With the exhaust cam lined up we were able to slide the master link into the chain and clamp it down.
2 of the head bolts were broke because my friend and I are retarded and we both misread N/m as Ft/lbs and over-torqued them, lol.
Same issue with one of the 20 bolts that hold the cams down. Misread the specs and over-torqued it too. No big deal though, we got very good extracting them
I have put ~200mi on the car since the rebuild and it has been flawless. Took it to MB of Devon and it passed inspection and a more thorough checkever I requested.
I will actually be listing it for sale shortly, waiting for a PA plate to come in for it.
If you have any other questions please feel free. There are lots more pics available.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
335i
It's worth noting that this was, as expected, the single most difficult part of the whole process.
I'm not sure that the 'Mercedes OEM' tool would have helped much as it wouldn't have compressed the tensioner; turning the cam, which is how we compressed it, wouldn't have been possible. The alternative is the loosen the tensioner, however, this would be less than ideal as well. For one, the access seal would have to be replaced, which isn't terribly expensive, but it would be annoying. The second issue is getting a socket in, IIRC it would have required a VERY thin walled socket(for it's size) to get through the chain housing, and getting to it without removing the alternator is either difficult or impossible (I don't actually remember).
For comparison, our biggest issue was preloading the crank and output cam enough that the motion of compressing the tensioner lined up TDC properly. It sucked, and took a couple of tries, but it beat the alternative.
I'm not sure that the 'Mercedes OEM' tool would have helped much as it wouldn't have compressed the tensioner; turning the cam, which is how we compressed it, wouldn't have been possible. The alternative is the loosen the tensioner, however, this would be less than ideal as well. For one, the access seal would have to be replaced, which isn't terribly expensive, but it would be annoying. The second issue is getting a socket in, IIRC it would have required a VERY thin walled socket(for it's size) to get through the chain housing, and getting to it without removing the alternator is either difficult or impossible (I don't actually remember).
For comparison, our biggest issue was preloading the crank and output cam enough that the motion of compressing the tensioner lined up TDC properly. It sucked, and took a couple of tries, but it beat the alternative.
Last edited by darkcirc; Apr 7, 2009 at 02:26 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
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2002 c230 coupe
hi i have a w203 , 2002 c230 coupe and me and my friend recently rebuilt the engine also but the only problem i am having is that my timing is off ?!! ... we replaced the timing chain tensioner but sometimes i have power and sometimes its off , back and forth ... would you know what we are doing wrong? thanks in advance
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
C230
Hello Guys,
I have a 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe and I am tackling a very similar project with my car. The only thing stopping me from getting any further is allowing enough slack from the timing chain to remove the camshafts. Please help me out, I been trying everything to try to remove the chain but just can't seem to figure something out. By the way thanks for posting all info on the project.
I have a 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe and I am tackling a very similar project with my car. The only thing stopping me from getting any further is allowing enough slack from the timing chain to remove the camshafts. Please help me out, I been trying everything to try to remove the chain but just can't seem to figure something out. By the way thanks for posting all info on the project.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 44
From: PA
09 CLK550
Ohh hey forgot about this thread.
This car is for sale if any one wants it:
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...to-philly.html It actually runs/sounds better then the red one I have now.
med23: I don't have projectors. I'm not sure what you're talking about.
If your timing is still off you should be hearing it sound pretty bad.
johndzul: We actually just cut the chain with a hack saw:
Looking back now, it would have been like 5x easier to connect the new chain to the old one and feed it through the crank instead of tearing the whole timing plate cover off. I'll reply to your PM with more info.
This car is for sale if any one wants it:
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...to-philly.html It actually runs/sounds better then the red one I have now.
med23: I don't have projectors. I'm not sure what you're talking about.
If your timing is still off you should be hearing it sound pretty bad.
johndzul: We actually just cut the chain with a hack saw:
Looking back now, it would have been like 5x easier to connect the new chain to the old one and feed it through the crank instead of tearing the whole timing plate cover off. I'll reply to your PM with more info.
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
c230K
Hi,, on quick question. did you have to replace the chain tensioner guide on the driver side. and the tensioner itself. i just had my head gasket blown and the mb mechanic says i got to replace these guides, im in mexico and it will take over a month to get those spare parts.. can i just keep the ones in the engine? what is your advice? thnks. DrochIN
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
2005 c230 kompressor
Great info and pics any advice on how to replace the timing chain guides without having to take off the front timing chain cover? Looks like there are three pins holding each of them (right and left) in. Would they all come out with the bolt and washer tool you fabricated?
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
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C230
I had the timing chain replaced in my 05 C230, but the guides were not replaced. I also would like to know if it is possible to change the timing guides with out taking off the timing chain cover. I think the pivot pin has backed out and is hitting up against the chain cover, the car makes a rattling noise between 1800-2800 RPM.
I removed the belt and ran the car with out it on to make sure it was not any of the pulleys, the noise remained and I have narrowed it down to be behind the timing chain cover......
I removed the belt and ran the car with out it on to make sure it was not any of the pulleys, the noise remained and I have narrowed it down to be behind the timing chain cover......
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 975
Likes: 270
From: Fort Worth TX
2020 S560, 2014 SLK55 (Prev. 2016 S65, 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
Help needed
I've finished (I hope) changing the chain on my c230, I'm just not sure the timing is right and need some input.
Any help is highly appreciated.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...time-pics.html
BTW if you are planning on doing this the job is easy just rent the chain riveter and make sure you buy the $100 retainer.
Any help is highly appreciated.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...time-pics.html
BTW if you are planning on doing this the job is easy just rent the chain riveter and make sure you buy the $100 retainer.
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 975
Likes: 270
From: Fort Worth TX
2020 S560, 2014 SLK55 (Prev. 2016 S65, 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
The riveter I got was from a member over at peach parts forums, the retainer you can order from parts.com with the part number. You could also order the riveter but its about 250 + the cost for the single chain insert.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 44
From: PA
09 CLK550
Newbie
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Mercedes Benz c180
Good picture Good job mate
incase anyone ever finds this thread, it is 'normal' or counter clockwise to loosen it. And it requires like 170ft/lbs of torque.
For my next question!
I am removing the cylinder head and there is one bolt remaining. Circled here:
The 'slide rail pin' that holds the driver-side chain tensioner is in the way of getting a socket on it. Looks like i need some kind of $150 116 589 20 33 00 Impact Puller for slide rail bearing bolt, basic unit. http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/...ompleteset.jpg
Which I'm guessing I can just use something to thread into the slide rail and pull it out the front?
For my next question!
I am removing the cylinder head and there is one bolt remaining. Circled here:
The 'slide rail pin' that holds the driver-side chain tensioner is in the way of getting a socket on it. Looks like i need some kind of $150 116 589 20 33 00 Impact Puller for slide rail bearing bolt, basic unit. http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/...ompleteset.jpg
Which I'm guessing I can just use something to thread into the slide rail and pull it out the front?
Last edited by Rolandliksenaj; May 19, 2016 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Made correction mistakes
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 571
Likes: 92
From: New England! :-)
2005 C230K Sport Coupe
If the timing chain breaks, then the "engine is a boat-anchor" (it's worth scrap value only).
You can not re-bore/hone/sleeve/etc the M271, or any other engine that has coated aluminum cylinders.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
2003 W203 C230k coupe/ 2007 W219 CLS63
now I am trying to fix the problem with febi timing chain kit. Hopefully it will be done in a few days.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 40
Likes: 2
1999 & 2005 C230 Kompressor
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
2003 W203 C230k coupe/ 2007 W219 CLS63
I was stopped by the guild pin..... just found the solution and will keep you guys posted.
The reason for choosing febi closed loop because I dont need any special tools to install the chain. On the other hand, its a little bit beefier than the OEM chain in links, not much though.
The reason for choosing febi closed loop because I dont need any special tools to install the chain. On the other hand, its a little bit beefier than the OEM chain in links, not much though.
