A very productive weekend, I replaced the front rotors and pads, and rear pad. Then I flushed the brake fluid. Btw, thanks to Brenden (paypaboy) for the hook up on R1 brakes.

 

im doing the same thing in a few weeks...do you have any more pics on the ordeal or info? how come you didnt replace the rear rotors? did you need to replace the front rotors or did you just decide to get the R1 rotors? amd what pads did you use?

 

Next time please observe that the jack is a tire changing tool only. Don't endanger yourself, others, and your car by working on it while sitting on the tire jack. Spend the money on a real jack, and some stands to support the car while working on it.

I will assume that you bought brake fluid from a dealer, because the correct fluid is not available from the aftermarket in the US except in Mercedes packaging. You run a risk of damage to the ABS system if the wrong fluid is used.

The pressure bleeder is a great tool, but I did not see two very necessary tools in your pictures. The first is a piston resetting tool. The correct tool uses parallel plates to push the piston back into the caliper without canting it. If the piston is not pushed straight back it will always damage the seal and can scratch the bore or the piston. The other tool is a torque wrench to properly set the fastener stretch on the rotor, caliper, and wheel. Don't risk an accident because you didn't have a $ 100 tool.

Congrats on doing your own brakes. You now have about $ 700 to spend on yourself.

 

The C-clamp is in the first pic, next to brake clean.

Torque wrench isn't necessary, recommended yes but most don't bother with it.

 

That is not a C-clamp, that is a locking plier clamp. Used mostly by welders to clamp work pieces in place. It does not have a parallel jaw, it will cant the piston and lead to a leaky caliper.

Please watch the video below. This a fella who felt he knew more than the engineers, and felt a torque wrench "isn't necessary."


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv4m41viy4I

 

How about a flat piece of board in conjuncture to the plier clamp? That should work.

The RX7 video was found to be issues with the incorrect lug nuts, it was the only thing the FD boards were posting at the time when I still had my RX7.

 

hahahhhaha, I have all the tools you mentioned, only not shown in the picture. I just happened didn't use the other jack yesterday. I used the old pads to push the piston back plus it's not difficult to push it back since I already loosened the bleeder bolt. Yup, bought the brake fluid from the dealer.

 

I also don't see any empty beer bottles.

 

LOL, that's afterwards.. I don't want to work on my car drunk..

 

If you are driving in the Baja 1000, and using a board with locking pliers to remain competitive, sure that will work. You will need to toss the calipers after the race because of the dust inside them anyhow. Otherwise, use the proper tool for the job, and stay safe.

IF the clown in the RX7 had used a torque wrench on the wheel nuts, he would have discovered the incorrect parts before he crash landed his car.

 

I do, but there are lots of pictures in the brake DIY thread. Please let me know if you have any specific questions, maybe I can help. Front rotor already reached the min thickness, and rear rotors still have plenty. I have R1 rotors, and posi quiet pads. So far, it seems that it has less dust than stock pad.

 

is that a stock caliper that u have in your pics?? I'm wondering is it fit my CLK W209?

Andy

 

ya that's the stock 2 piston c230 '05 caliper...

 

also do their rotors go the correct direction or did they follow the same lazy pattern MB did by using only one rotor and applying it to both sides of the vehicle?

 

Looks the same like the stock..

 

Wow, I never use a torque wrench what should the bolts be torqued at does anyone know?

 

Out of curiosity, what do you mean one rotor applied to both sides of vehicle?

 

if i remember correctly. 82lbs. if not...oh wellz.

i don't use a torque wrench. the only time i had problem with it was when someone attempted to steal my wheel.


LMFAO at the RX7. first time seeing that video. I don't think owning a torque wrench would've helped.

 

they only make ONE rotor. used on both said meaning one would look like it's spinning forward and the other backward.

 

Thanks for the clarification.. not sure why that matters but okay.

 

Moviela, I assume this is the caliper piston tool you are talking about?


Samstag Sales wants $189.99 for that tool. Got a link for a more reasonably priced one?

 

How about using a clamp that pushes outward and putting two pieces of wood?

189.99????? Thats crazy

 

you can just use the pads that you are taking out instead.

 

Yup +1

 

Actually, I like SlvrC230SS choice of piston compression tool. The ends of the clamp swivel and can conform to an uneven surface (like the swivel pad on a c clamp) at one end much better than a fixed arm tool. As long as you center it over the piston and use something as a buffer (the worn pad is great for this as mentioned) there should be no problem. The vice grip tension is smooth and more easily controlled than a screw clamp IMHO. I've seen the screw type do some real damage...obviously not used correctly. Until my arthritis starting getting bad I just pushed them in with my hands. With the bleeder valve open it's very easy, harder with it closed.