junekitt

nice write up,but did anyone have problem with leaks ? tried two ways with silicone leaked! removed cleaned gasket and silicone and new gasket still leaks!!

contact148

NOPE

Just use that metal/paper covered gasket as is NO silicone

clean the engine block off well i used a scrapper and acetone to clean mine

istongt

Great how to - thanks. I replaced mine and found removing and reinstalling the hose and clip were quite difficult. If I were to do it again I would try just draining the fluids using the radiator drain plug.

I also had problems with the replacement water pump. I tried a Beck Arnley and a GMB for my 2005 c240 and both had the same issue. The hole that the alternator bolt fits through was too small and the two top left bolt holes that hold on the step 10 electrical thingy were too small and not threaded.

So I drilled out the alternator hole a bit to fit the bolt and used small bolts and nuts to hold on the electrical thingy

contact148

the 2 small holes are supposed to be small the screws are self tapping

drshishani

Amazing job. I could not have done it myself without this great post.

Thank you very much.

jelecroy

This is a terrific DIY post. I have the MB service DVD, and it shows a lot of effort to remove the fan and fan shroud. Very nice to not waste time on that chore, particularly since re-installing the top brace will require tweaking the hood latch attach.
I think that the "electrical thingy" is a solenoid valve that opens to allow air from the air pump to get pushed into the exhaust during cold running when the mixture is enriched. This system is supposed to keep a lean mixture going through the catalytic converters, for emmision control and reduced converter fouling.
I plan to replace the WP, and thermostat and hoses while I'm at it. Than maybe I can go another 130K without touching this subsystem.
Thanks for the post!

Nikkibenz

I have no clue about cars and am trying to educate myself so I don't get ripped off anymore, my water pump recently starting making a squeaking noise and the quotes I'm getting are very expensive and range from $600-1000. I would love to be able to do it myself after reading this post but that's not happening.

Either way does anyone know what is an honest estimate of how much this would cost to repair at a shop?

C230 Sport Coup

That seems high. I did the water pump on an ML320.
The labor was quoted at 3.5 hours at $100 an hour.
I thought it sounded exorbitant.

So I did it myself. But it was a bigger job than I imagined with like 40 bolts in and out.
On the ML there is actual fan connected to a pulley and you need special wrenches I didn't have but the indy guy I bought the pump from lent them to me.

All in all if I'd had the money it would've just paid him.
It was an all day job. Since you have to remove the alternator, and the bracket, and all the bolts are different lengths.
Haven't done my c230 yet but it's standalone, should be easy.
Remove the belts and hoses, unbolt the old one, bolt on the new one.

The pump was about $150 and the labor woulda been 350 so the total woulda been 500 so your quote seems high. Should be easier too since you have an electric fan.
I found a DIY in a W210 forum. Wish i'd had it and the wrenches before I Started.

jvakos

Super helpful write up!

question - should the water pump pulley spin freely with ZERO sound if it’s in good working condition? I took my belt off to test that and both the water pump and idler pulley spin freely with no grinding sound, BUT each does make a slight metallic sound when you spin them. I’m also getting a slight metallic noise upon initial acceleration at very low speed that goes away in a few seconds. It’s actually more noticeable if on any angled road or speed bump. Not having any cooling issues or leaks though. But just wondering if these are symptoms of a water pump on its way out at 120k miles. Thanks