W203 Coupe - Cabin/Interior light not working on door opening or disarm of alarm
Hoping someone can shed some light (excuse the pun) on this. The Cabin/Interior light fails to work when the doors/boot are opened or when the car is unlocked at night.
The rocker switch to active the light works to turn them manually on and off. Has anyone else had this problem, has anyone any suggestions as to the cause.
Help as always, appreciated.
FrankW suggested it may be MFD? Please explain what that is.... I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.
Thanks!
if you also have the same issue then I would look into the fuse instead.
I don't see any solution here ... I left it at the place I bought it but it is not a MB dealer; I bet they are scouring the internet for some solution ... but at least it's coverd by extended service contract.
Anyone know of the solution .. is it in the door or the fuse or the connections?
Muchas gracias ...
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Any LED bulbs added? It’s an old thread but needed to have that tidbit added.
Last edited by Petethepug; Sep 28, 2024 at 06:26 PM.




The dome light needs to sense "some" resistance to know to cut the power. No idea how that part works.
For the W203 (pre facelift at least), any interior dimming light (the front and rear dome lights) will need this resistor. The bulbs for the visors and glove box do not need any resistors. The trunk one needs some resistance so that the car doesn't think it's out (it'll stay off but intermittently flash twice). Personally I used a 220 ohm resistor. YMMV as the optimal resistor value is affected by the current draw of the bulb as well.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 29, 2024 at 03:11 AM.
There’s a reason you don’t see older MBZ running LED aftermarket bulbs in exterior or interior applications. One toasted SAM can total a car by the repair exceeding its value.
Lucky owners who experiment with resistors and leds can undo a finicky SAM with a reboot / battery disconnect and replacing the incandescent bulb. Unlucky owners stay close lipped about their led mistakes. Their damaged cars are sold on without disclosing that a resistor failed causing a surge that killed a SAM with 4-8 hrs labor & parts to (hopefully) repair.




There is no danger of burning anything out with this method. If anything, the LED bulb draws too little current. Those circuits need to be "tricked" by increasing the current draw, which is provided by the parallel circuits. All of the stock interior incandescent lights are 5W or 10W. Nothing too crazy. Again, the resistor just needs to increase the current enough to make the car think the bulb isn't burnt out. The actual power required for this is actually much lower than the incandescent wattage.
Using this method, I was able to replace every interior bulb (visors, dome lights, glove box, trunk) as well as the rear license plate. Been several years now with 0 issues. If anything, the LED setup runs cooler than stock. My license plate light housings were slightly melted by the stock bulbs.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 30, 2024 at 04:35 AM.



