C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

W203 Coupe - Cabin/Interior light not working on door opening or disarm of alarm

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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 04:04 AM
  #1  
Bananaskin's Avatar
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From: Newry - UK
CLK 320 Avantgarde Cabriolet
W203 Coupe - Cabin/Interior light not working on door opening or disarm of alarm

Hey guys,

Hoping someone can shed some light (excuse the pun) on this. The Cabin/Interior light fails to work when the doors/boot are opened or when the car is unlocked at night.

The rocker switch to active the light works to turn them manually on and off. Has anyone else had this problem, has anyone any suggestions as to the cause.

Help as always, appreciated.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 04:32 AM
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the setting is in your MFD OR you have burned a fuse or relay switch for the dome light.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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C230 coupe 2002
flip the switch to the left , the light goes on , flip it to the right everything shuts off? , leave it in the middle and it will work with the doors and control , am i right?
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 01:29 AM
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2000 C230 Kompressor
2000 C230 issue - Dome light not working when door opens

Hey guys, I have the same problem as Bananaskin. My dome lights work when i press the button, but do not work when i open/close doors etc.

FrankW suggested it may be MFD? Please explain what that is.... I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.

Thanks!
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:29 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by AZBenz1
Hey guys, I have the same problem as Bananaskin. My dome lights work when i press the button, but do not work when i open/close doors etc.

FrankW suggested it may be MFD? Please explain what that is.... I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.

Thanks!
MFD = multi-function display. the W202 doesn't have it.

if you also have the same issue then I would look into the fuse instead.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #6  
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C230 Sport
C230 Interior Light Failure

I have same problems with 2006 C230 Sport. Just noticed it last week; that's how much I go out at night!

I don't see any solution here ... I left it at the place I bought it but it is not a MB dealer; I bet they are scouring the internet for some solution ... but at least it's coverd by extended service contract.

Anyone know of the solution .. is it in the door or the fuse or the connections?

Muchas gracias ...
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:06 AM
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Clk 430 2000
I had the same problems, plus my radio was no working, what fixed it was changing the bigges fuse there is in the front hood fuse box, where the mechanic check if there is any problems with the computer, in the clk 2000 is located in the passenger side of the engine, you need to open the box, for some reason the manual does not talk about those fuse boxes, my fuse you could smell the burn, hoped this helped,
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Old Sep 26, 2024 | 07:00 PM
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2007 C230 Sport
Originally Posted by LinDenKid
flip the switch to the left , the light goes on , flip it to the right everything shuts off? , leave it in the middle and it will work with the doors and control , am i right?
sorry to revive a dead thread, but YES. Is this supposed to be how it works????!?!
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Old Sep 28, 2024 | 06:25 PM
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Adding LED, cansafe LED or No flicker LED retrofit bulbs and the SAM don’t like each other.

Any LED bulbs added? It’s an old thread but needed to have that tidbit added.

Last edited by Petethepug; Sep 28, 2024 at 06:26 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2024 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Petethepug
Adding LED, cansafe LED or No flicker LED retrofit bulbs and the SAM don’t like each other.

Any LED bulbs added? It’s an old thread but needed to have that tidbit added.
The W203 can work with LEDs. Just add a resistor in parallel, or the bulb doesn't actually turn off. It stays very dimly lit when "off". I used a 680 ohm and can confirm that a lower value resistor will also work. Didn't test the upper value limit so can't comment.

The dome light needs to sense "some" resistance to know to cut the power. No idea how that part works.

For the W203 (pre facelift at least), any interior dimming light (the front and rear dome lights) will need this resistor. The bulbs for the visors and glove box do not need any resistors. The trunk one needs some resistance so that the car doesn't think it's out (it'll stay off but intermittently flash twice). Personally I used a 220 ohm resistor. YMMV as the optimal resistor value is affected by the current draw of the bulb as well.

Last edited by slammer111; Sep 29, 2024 at 03:11 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2024 | 07:08 PM
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can bus is 5v. Adding a led into a circuit designed for an incandescent 12v source that cycles a rise & fall from 3-12v through a rudimentary thermal based resistor, designed for household lamps or other specific applications is an expensive way to verify adverse side effects.

There’s a reason you don’t see older MBZ running LED aftermarket bulbs in exterior or interior applications. One toasted SAM can total a car by the repair exceeding its value.

Lucky owners who experiment with resistors and leds can undo a finicky SAM with a reboot / battery disconnect and replacing the incandescent bulb. Unlucky owners stay close lipped about their led mistakes. Their damaged cars are sold on without disclosing that a resistor failed causing a surge that killed a SAM with 4-8 hrs labor & parts to (hopefully) repair.
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Old Sep 30, 2024 | 04:31 AM
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Any LED bulb that is designed for automotive applications (ie 12VDC input) will work. I'm not talking about ghetto rigging some bare bones LED by itself. There are plenty of turnkey products out there. Personally I'm using Philips LEDs. Other than the parallel resistors for some applications, the LEDs are a direct swap.

There is no danger of burning anything out with this method. If anything, the LED bulb draws too little current. Those circuits need to be "tricked" by increasing the current draw, which is provided by the parallel circuits. All of the stock interior incandescent lights are 5W or 10W. Nothing too crazy. Again, the resistor just needs to increase the current enough to make the car think the bulb isn't burnt out. The actual power required for this is actually much lower than the incandescent wattage.

Using this method, I was able to replace every interior bulb (visors, dome lights, glove box, trunk) as well as the rear license plate. Been several years now with 0 issues. If anything, the LED setup runs cooler than stock. My license plate light housings were slightly melted by the stock bulbs.

Last edited by slammer111; Sep 30, 2024 at 04:35 AM.
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